Original spark plugs?
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 73
Likes: 4
Original spark plugs?
I pulled a plug to check condition of them on my 2010 model year 5.4L 3V. I've had it for about 7 months and it's been running great.
The plug gap is 0.069 where it should be 0.041. The engine has 177k. Do you think this means these are the original spark plugs?
Edit: the electrode was worn down a bunch which is the cause for the large gap.
The plug gap is 0.069 where it should be 0.041. The engine has 177k. Do you think this means these are the original spark plugs?
Edit: the electrode was worn down a bunch which is the cause for the large gap.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 73
Likes: 4
Always ruin the catalyst? Could you please elaborate? Are you saying two new catalytic converters is a project in my near future?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 7,128
Likes: 1,945
From: Sportsman's Paradise
Look at the other end of the plug where the coil attaches, if the tip is painted it's oem. Typical replacement mileage is 100,000 miles so you got your moneys worth out of those, someone did anyway, it's time for a change. Cats are warranted for 80,000 miles so anything after that is lagniappe.
Will you need new cats soon? No telling. I've seen them go well into the 200,000+ mile ranges and still operate normally, worry about that when your vehicle sets a catalyst efficiency code. The coils are overdue as well but I only change them when they start miss firing and set a code, you'll know which one(s) by the code set. If you just want to change them as a preventive maintenance item, nothing wrong with that.
Use genuine Ford or Motorcraft parts only.
Will you need new cats soon? No telling. I've seen them go well into the 200,000+ mile ranges and still operate normally, worry about that when your vehicle sets a catalyst efficiency code. The coils are overdue as well but I only change them when they start miss firing and set a code, you'll know which one(s) by the code set. If you just want to change them as a preventive maintenance item, nothing wrong with that.
Use genuine Ford or Motorcraft parts only.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 31
From: Winnipeg
Nothing I'd be worried about if the truck was running good with no codes. Change the plugs {use Motorcraft} and the coil boots. Enjoy your new ride.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 719
Likes: 92
From: Asheboro, NC
I mostly concur with the KISS method- I'd change the plugs first. Get them from your local Ford dealer as there have been increasing reports of fake Motorcraft parts when purchased from elsewhere. I'd skip the coil boots until I inspected them for obvious damage. IMO no point in replacing yet unless you just want to based on "it runs good".
Replacing the cats is not a foregone conclusion. Don't fret about it. Folks think they're helping by bringing up the worst case scenarios but they are not the norm for the huge majority of folks.
Replacing the cats is not a foregone conclusion. Don't fret about it. Folks think they're helping by bringing up the worst case scenarios but they are not the norm for the huge majority of folks.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2020
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Really great info and advice. Thank you for your help. I ordered 8 motorcraft plugs and 8 motorcraft boots from rock auto for about 100 bucks total. Hopefully they won't send me fake ones as I think that's happening more on ebay but I could be wrong. I've always had good luck ordering from rock auto and they'll get here fast which is important for this job.
I didn't notice if the end was painted but ill for sure check that out when I take them out. I'm really glad I got a 2010 5.4 3V. Otherwise I'd have the buy the lisle tool and worry about breaking the plugs.
I also ordered some silicone paste for the new boots. I'll check back in after I swap them out. I'm excited to see if it runs even better or if my fuel mileage improves. I get about 14mpg as it is now.
Despite the nay sayers about this engine, im really liking it with no complaints. My other trucks have the 4.9L straight six and the 351wHO so I'm used to great Ford engines and I think this one is right up there with them (after a melling m360hv oil pump and updated Ford tensioners and phasers are installed that is). I'm doing oil changes at 4k miles and plan on keeping it going forever.
I didn't notice if the end was painted but ill for sure check that out when I take them out. I'm really glad I got a 2010 5.4 3V. Otherwise I'd have the buy the lisle tool and worry about breaking the plugs.
I also ordered some silicone paste for the new boots. I'll check back in after I swap them out. I'm excited to see if it runs even better or if my fuel mileage improves. I get about 14mpg as it is now.
Despite the nay sayers about this engine, im really liking it with no complaints. My other trucks have the 4.9L straight six and the 351wHO so I'm used to great Ford engines and I think this one is right up there with them (after a melling m360hv oil pump and updated Ford tensioners and phasers are installed that is). I'm doing oil changes at 4k miles and plan on keeping it going forever.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 31
From: Winnipeg
A few tips if you haven't done these before. Beside blowing the debris from around your working area air blow all the coil and injector connectors to remove debris from the lock clips. It'll help them to release. Check each connector as you remove them to make sure the silicone seal inside them hasn't fallen out onto the engine or floor.
When you take the boot off the coil, remove the spring wire from the coil and check the spade terminal it attaches to. They can get corroded and will turn green/blue in color. Try to clean them up with a small screwdriver/pick and wash them with CRC Electronic Cleaner or an electrical cleaner that leaves no residue. Smear a small amount of dielectric grease about a 1/4" into the new boot end that covers the plug. It should help prevent moisture wicking up the plug and the boot from sticking to the plug under repeat heat cycles.
When you take the boot off the coil, remove the spring wire from the coil and check the spade terminal it attaches to. They can get corroded and will turn green/blue in color. Try to clean them up with a small screwdriver/pick and wash them with CRC Electronic Cleaner or an electrical cleaner that leaves no residue. Smear a small amount of dielectric grease about a 1/4" into the new boot end that covers the plug. It should help prevent moisture wicking up the plug and the boot from sticking to the plug under repeat heat cycles.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 73
Likes: 4
A few tips if you haven't done these before. Beside blowing the debris from around your working area air blow all the coil and injector connectors to remove debris from the lock clips. It'll help them to release. Check each connector as you remove them to make sure the silicone seal inside them hasn't fallen out onto the engine or floor.
When you take the boot off the coil, remove the spring wire from the coil and check the spade terminal it attaches to. They can get corroded and will turn green/blue in color. Try to clean them up with a small screwdriver/pick and wash them with CRC Electronic Cleaner or an electrical cleaner that leaves no residue. Smear a small amount of dielectric grease about a 1/4" into the new boot end that covers the plug. It should help prevent moisture wicking up the plug and the boot from sticking to the plug under repeat heat cycles.
When you take the boot off the coil, remove the spring wire from the coil and check the spade terminal it attaches to. They can get corroded and will turn green/blue in color. Try to clean them up with a small screwdriver/pick and wash them with CRC Electronic Cleaner or an electrical cleaner that leaves no residue. Smear a small amount of dielectric grease about a 1/4" into the new boot end that covers the plug. It should help prevent moisture wicking up the plug and the boot from sticking to the plug under repeat heat cycles.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 915
From: Montana
You should also get some ant-seize on the plug threads... Aluminum heads tend to make plugs stick. Check the proper torque for the plugs too... The 5.4 can be very particular. Someone should chime in with the proper specs.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 7,128
Likes: 1,945
From: Sportsman's Paradise
Nix the anti seize, the plugs come coated with nickel for that purpose, using anti seize will affect the torque. You might over/under tighten them and cause problems down the road.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 73
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I just finished changing the plugs and boots. The hardest part wasn't even a plug, it was the 7mm bolt on the back cylinder drivers side. That was rusted in place and I had few choices with its location. I didn't have a spark plug socket but I made it work. Took about 2 hours with that 7mm bolt headache.
It runs really great now. Idles smoother and seems to require less throttle to get moving.
The back 3 cylinders on the drivers side had oil all over the threads. The engine uses about 2 quarts every 5k miles so this might be where its going. What is the concensus on this?