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Where is that darn thing?!?! I have a pertronix and accel ignition, both rated at 8-16 volts, and i got to thinkin, and decided to temporarily wire my coil/pertronix directly to my battery. Idles smoother and just ran a little better, and I might even squeeze a few more MPG's out of it (those are meters per gallon, not miles ) So where the heck is the ballast resistor? For now it is wired into my old radio fuse circut, but that stays on when I turn the key to ACC.
It's a length of wire, running from the ignition switch to a 3-pronged connector behind the radio, just before going through the firewall and to the coil. The other two wires are the oil and temp senders. Can't remember if it's still pink in '72, should ohm out at 1.3 - 1.45 ohms.
Is the new coil a "non ballast" coil? If so, yes, defeating the ballast is a good idea. Otherwise you won't see the hotter spark you bought the better coil for. It needs the full 12 volts at all times. But if the new coil is a "ballast coil", bypassing the wire is not a good idea. A ballast coil runs with less voltage. "6-9 volts" It's only bypassed 12v while starting the engine. Once the switch goes back to "run" the coil receives the normal lower voltage. Using 12v on a ballast coil could cause it to toast earlier than normal. Also would wear points faster. BTW, if you don't increase your plug gap when installing a hotter coil, it's a total waste of time. The coil will only develop the needed voltage to jump the gap, and no more. So any coil hotter than needed to jump a certain size gap is a waste of time/money. If you don't widen the gap, there is no use in a better coil. MK
I would leave it alone and use it to operate a relay. Use the relay contacts to provide 12 volts to the ignition. This will save wear on the ignition switch.