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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Stalling issue

Old Feb 15, 2021 | 05:55 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Peter41
Alright I am going to try this when I get home. I guess if that doesnt solve my problem then I have no idea what could be causing it. Much appreciated! Now just gotta find something to rig up a temporary plug
You can take Vice Grips and gently pinch off the hose, just don't go to tight as it could hurt the hose.
OR
Pull the hose off the booster end and put a bolt in the end as a plug.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 02:32 PM
  #17  
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From: Tempe
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
You can take Vice Grips and gently pinch off the hose, just don't go to tight as it could hurt the hose.
OR
Pull the hose off the booster end and put a bolt in the end as a plug.
Dave ----
Well I couldn't find my grips, so used a golf tee, which actually worked fine. What do ya know, even on a cold start and no choke, pushing hard on the brakes didn't kill her. Reconnected the vacuum line, started her up this morning, instantly died pushing on the brakes at 5 mph. So, brake booster has been ordered. Should have replaced it when I did the master/proportioning valve, overall brakes, but this is definitely something I can swap out myself in my carport. Much appreciated! Now just gotta make sure I don't crack brake lines on the master moving it to the side.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 02:53 PM
  #18  
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Pete, you should not need to touch the lines.
Undo the 2 nuts holding the master to the booster, pull it forward off the 1 studs and lay it off to the side.
Then you can swap out the booster.

I added power brakes to my truck using parts from my parts truck and once on the road I think I found why the parts truck was rolled on it roof, bad master & booster!
When I replaced them the pedal was a little funky and adjusted the rod between the booster & master a few times and why I know you can move the master with out messing with the lines.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 03:50 PM
  #19  
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From: Tempe
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Pete, you should not need to touch the lines.
Undo the 2 nuts holding the master to the booster, pull it forward off the 1 studs and lay it off to the side.
Then you can swap out the booster.

I added power brakes to my truck using parts from my parts truck and once on the road I think I found why the parts truck was rolled on it roof, bad master & booster!
When I replaced them the pedal was a little funky and adjusted the rod between the booster & master a few times and why I know you can move the master with out messing with the lines.
Dave ----
Yessir!! I am hoping the rod on the booster doesn't need any adjustment, but will do my best to get it comparable to the old one without that special measuring tool if needed. It seems like something I can get swapped out in 30 minutes or so, but will probably wait until tomorrow just in case I start losing daylight.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 05:25 PM
  #20  
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On the adjustment for me it was only because the pedal did not feel right.
Also when I started looking at the adjustment I found it loose, the jamb nut was not even close to "jamb".

Other wise maybe just do a quick measurement for piece of mind but don't adjust it.
Also that tool I don't think is really needed, I think I used my calipers to measure it as I don't have that tool.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 18, 2021 | 03:12 PM
  #21  
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From: Tempe
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
On the adjustment for me it was only because the pedal did not feel right.
Also when I started looking at the adjustment I found it loose, the jamb nut was not even close to "jamb".

Other wise maybe just do a quick measurement for piece of mind but don't adjust it.
Also that tool I don't think is really needed, I think I used my calipers to measure it as I don't have that tool.
Dave ----
What I thought was going to be an hour job turned into an overnight thing, finishing today. I got the cotter pin out holding that little metal shaft that goes into the loop of the booster. That little metal shaft was a real pain. Had to get a punch and hammer it out, which of course I didn't have. Eye balling it the shaft looks to be the same, so I don't think im even going to touch it. Worst case I attach the master and have to make a small adjustment afterwards.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2021 | 06:43 PM
  #22  
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Sorry for late reply it vacuum leak from between the lower half of the carb but I fixed it and she runs like a top now
 
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Old Feb 19, 2021 | 12:20 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Trenton Tbone Giordano
Sorry for late reply it vacuum leak from between the lower half of the carb but I fixed it and she runs like a top now
Thanks for letting us know what it was. This is an issues with the straight six motors for some reason. The 2 halves come loose and it will run like crap but would not change when you step on the brakes.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 19, 2021 | 02:30 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Thanks for letting us know what it was. This is an issues with the straight six motors for some reason. The 2 halves come loose and it will run like crap but would not change when you step on the brakes.
Dave ----
Was absolutely infuriating for a while too and with a vacuum gage she was drawing 19 at idle and I would never have been able to tell
 
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