Buy your parts from riffraff. Consistently good prices on high quality parts. I don’t recommend cheaping out on the replacement parts if you have to pay someone else to put them on.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/94-97-obs-7-3l/

 

Well now that the Dumocrats are in office the price of diesel will be 8.00 bucks a gallon! And maybe more... So the same math works as it doesn't pay to spend 70k for a truck that only gets 5 MPG more... My truck is paid for, and would rather pay 20k to make my truck better than any new truck as no new crew cab long bed truck has over 400HP AND COST UNDER 20K... Although they should be!!

 

Can you please send parts list (Make, Model, Web-links) of what you said and how much better MPGs it will get me... I see that there are big price differences in injectors, so it would help if I can get the best Dollar for Dollar ones of everything... Example, I looked at a BANKS Exhaust for 6k and someone said there was same system by NO NAME that was about 1,500. bucks, but he was killed before giving me the make and model and where to get it... And please make sure that all the parts fit my 1997 7.3L 4X4... Incase it matters it was built in 9/96 for the 97 model... And do you know what would be the best D4D High pressure oil pump and the best D4D injectors that will work with chips, to get best MPG, also need to find out if I should either replace my old vacuum fuel pump with an electric one, or with a stock one... All help will be appreciated!! Oil pump, fuel pump, and injectors, are first to replaced... Then exhaust, intake, and then the chip last, so I can have someone tune it with everything on it... Thanks

 

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/exhaust-systems/
plenty of exhaust systems here. 350-600 bucks depending on material and size. Turbo back is what you need

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/full-...ors-94-97-OBS/
would recommend one of these sets of injectors or rosewoods. For your power ideas stage 1.5 or 2s would be good

i have a drop in turbo from Kc turbos which I love and recommend or you can go t4 route.

efuel is a big deal. You can get it from any number of dealers around the web. Or Mark F makes his own kits and a few people on here like it a lot and it’s much cheaper. I will buy his when I switch

Adrenaline or CNC Fab hpops are well known here

https://cncfab.us/i-30498063-cnc-fab...tg1-96-03.html

don’t have a link for an adrenaline on hand

intake is easy just a few boots from Riffraff and you’re set

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/intake-systems-filters/

overall you have to choose what would be best for your truck in the long run. Do you tow or plan to tow a lot?

 

Just had someone put a code reader on it and he said that it covers half the engine... The code was P1316... Someone else said that there were 2 codes but the last guys reader was a cheap one, the first guy that got 2 codes said one code had about 30 parts on one code and 28 parts on the other code and he said that's about 3/4 of the engine... So does anyone know where I can get perfect used parts for this 7.3L ,oh it's a 1997 Cal model as someone said that it most likely is the computer, but said that the wiring most likely shorted out the computer and I should replace the wiring first and then the computer, so I don't just replace the computer and have it get shorted out by bad wiring, and other said it is the high pressure oil pump that is causing the problem of engine quitting... I posted on the parts wanted but I don't think it ever got posted... Can someone please make sure that it get's posted in parts wanted that I would like perfect wiring, Computer, oil HP-pump, fuel-pump, and all sensors that could cause the problem of it quitting while driving... I really need to get it fixed quickly as I'm supposed to take someone and their Grandchild across the country by the end of April... Also can someone please put in detail how I can start another post, and find when I reply on a post, as I can't seem to find my reply's... Anyone know of a "Mechanic" in the LASVEGAS area, and not a "SHOP" as I am not going to pay the ridiculous $150. bucks a hour! The mechanic probably gets 15-18 bucks an hour which I would pay, or they can bring their last paycheck and I will pay what they get per hour listed on their check... Once it gets running, I will get to NH/Maine where the shops get 45-55 bucks an hour... Then I can get a mechanic up there to put on the 4" exhaust and any else I need to get done to get better MPG... PLEASE HELP...

 

My recommendation is to cut your losses and buy a new truck. It will need no maintenance and have a warranty for any work required.

This 20+ year old vehicle will continue to need stuff every year.

 

Get those codes and we can help. Could be as easy as a bad CPS or even a bad IPR or ICP sensor.

 

Ok, what are they, and how much are the parts to change?? Are they easy to change? How far are you from Vegas or do you know someone here?

 

Well, if I do buy a newer truck it won't be a Ford!! Ford won't even look at a truck if it is 10 years old or older! At least Chevy and Ram will still work on their trucks no matter how old... Also no one is going to give me a loan for a NEW truck, because I'm Handicapped and on SSD and on a "Very Low" fixed income... You can buy my truck as is for $65,000. cash... Then I might be able to get a hold-over if I barrow some from friends... You really shouldn't comment on someones post if you don't have a reasonable solution to fix the problem with the vehicle they are trying to fix... Because it just makes it harder to scroll down through these garbage posts to get to ones that might help fix it... I won't even be able to trade it in until it's fixed and running good anyways, unless you're buying it... And yes, once I get it fixed this will be my last trip across the country with this truck...

 

He meant get the codes and we will help you diagnose and recommend parts.

Throughout your thread I have offered plenty of reasonable assistance. I am actually the one who requested a moderator to move your questions into your own thread so you could begin to get help. At no point have I seen you even attempt to use any of the recommendations people have offered.

I gave you reasonable real world numbers for parts change costs versus fuel mileage improvement savings. You previously were willing to spend $70,000 just to get better mileage. You also mentioned buying a new truck instead. Therefore my suggestion to purchase a new vehicle with a warranty which would require zero maintenance was a real and serious recommendation.

Don’t worry, this will be my last post on your thread. I wish you the best sir.

 

I agree buy a new truck.. maybe you would be better off trying to get 20 mpg with your jeep ! Jeep is much lighter weight then the ford... and what mechanic is gonna work on your junk for 15 bucks an hour thats an insult, where I'm from a mechanic making that money is just starting out

 

I just had someone come over with an old code reader and it only came up with one code on his but the check engine light hasn't come on since they worked on it and cleared the codes... But it still Quits after one or two minutes idling as well as driving... Then it won't start for an hour or more... Code it came up with is P1316... And that lists a ton of things, and not sure what the other code was because the place in TN read 2 codes and said one had 28 parts and the other had 30 parts, and said that it's over half the engine with the two codes...
As for RacinJason, I never said I would spend 70,000. on a new truck, unless I hit the lottery... I probably said that I wouldn't spend 70k to only get 3-4 MPG more than what this thing gets... (Even if I had the money) And as for buying parts to get better MPG, I just wanted to get list of parts and prices on what would get me better MPG on this truck, but, I have to get it running "Safely" first and foremost... As so many have pointed out it isn't worth putting that some said would cost over 30k to 40K to get this truck over 20MPG... As for price per hour, Some shops in NH VT AND Maine charge 40-60 per hour so I'm sure that the mechanics are not making over 25 per hour especially if the shops charging 40 bucks an hour... So far I have been ripped off big time when I was charged $250. to replace the fuel filter that they said would fix it... I checked and found out that the filter cost less than 20 bucks at any AutoZone or O'riley's... Then I had to pay $500. to replace a cam-sensor that they said would fix the problem, and it didn't fix it either, and I found out that it only cost 40 bucks for the OEM part... (It was 250.00 to diagnose it and 250.00 to fix it..) Which it didn't, then they said it would be $2k to replace the High pressure oil pump... Then another person said it wouldn't be the HPOP, and it most likely bad wiring, at 1,800-2k, to fix the wiring and maybe ICP add !,000. and maybe a new computer chip at 2,500.00 more or so... So I'm hoping to find someone that has had this problem and knows exactly what is causing this problem so I can get it fixed to help my neighbor get her jeep to NH... To the other guy, The jeep isn't mine, it's the old lady's down the street that needs to get it to NH to help take care of her sister and bring her Grandson back to see his mother for the summer... I opened my mouth and said I would help her for half the fuel cost... Which is why I was hoping for a cheap fix to get this thing to get 20MPG, that I know isn't posable now... So all I'm looking for now is to get it to be safe to drive across the country with her and her Grandkid and her cat... My brother said that he would help with getting better MPG so he can have me bring my tractor over to do some work at his place with my tractor, but I guess he will have to pay full fuel cost... Because no one will give me a loan on my SSD Very Low Fixed income to buy a new truck and I couldn't afford the insurance or Reg-of a New truck... I just need to know what parts to buy and I guess I can find someone to install the part or parts... (Hope there is a video on Youtube to show it as well...) So who ever know what causing this problem of just quitting while running, Please let me know...

 

If that's the only code popping up (p1316) could be either faulty/open circuit to the IDM, loose/burnt connectors going to the valve cover gaskets or internal injector harness making contact and shorting out causing the truck to shut down. The other thing is a bad IDM. Remove your IDM and shake it, if you hear a swash open up the IDM drain it and let it dry, could work or not, but most of the times it does. I recommend for you to do the work instead of having incompetent people working on your truck that way you wont just throw parts at it and can learn a thing or 2 about your truck. Don't expect good MPG with these old trucks the aerodynamics are as good as a brick wall.

 

@MadMaxx z31freakify took the words out of my mouth. Check the harness plugs going to the valve covers as well as what's under them. If they're bad you have two options. Replace with the OEM stuff or swap to the SD style. If that's the problem either is fine. the SD style is just a single plug with a little bit thicker pins.

If the IDM is bad, give Diesel Tech Chattanooga a call. They're the best in the business and can fix yours and upgrade it for less than it will cost to have a dealership get you a stock replacement. They also do core charges and should be able to ship a good one, and refund you the charge when they get your old one.

 

Thank You Very much... Although I'm handicapped and not able to do much. Where is the IDM? Can you post a picture of it and where it is? Then I will see if I can attempt removing it and shaking it... Seems like every time I try to google anything on my 1997 I get every other year 2006 or 1992 and many others, anything but the 1996-98 that some have said is the only the years that are the same... And ya, I've given up on getting better MPG, I just need to get it running safely, so I can make this one last trip from Vegas to NH and back and then I'm going to sell it...