I brought this gem home on this chilly Christmas Eve. Can you experts out there help me with some history. I haven't seen dual rear axles in any book that I have researched. The front axle is driven and the rear axle is a copy of the front with the exception of the front of the rear has a blank out plate. The rear of the axle looks the same as the front. No drive shaft connection. The axles are mounted to the frame with a Hutchens 7700 series suspension system. I only know this because I just rebuilt a Eager Beaver 20 ton tag trailer and the suspension is Identical. The only thing that needs immediate assistance to use around my farm is the Accelerator firewall linkage is almost seized up.

 

According to the tag, your truck was originally a single axle. I've seen quite a few trucks from back in the day that people put a tag axle made from a pulling rear axle with the chunk removed and a plate over the hole. A lot of them used trailer suspension since they are plentiful, cheap, and light.The main problem with trailer suspension is not a lot of articulation, leading to getting stuck easily.

 

Field built tandem. VIN shows as a '59 F600 292 4V. Similar to my dad's '58, but with added axle and frame. He had a 14' bed, that looks a little longer.

FAIK, Ford never did a tandem F600. They were 700 or 750 and up, designated "T-700" etc. And as you describe it, this isn't a factory tandem setup.

Check those wheels. Could be widowmakers!

 

The fronts are widow makers. Please guide me into a safer alternative. Are they available. Also included was a complete set of wheels and tires. I will review which ones have the split rims

 

Wheels with locking rings are safe if handled correctly. WM on the front--at least if they blow up, the ring goes inward instead of into whatever you're next to.

 

The linkage is commonly all gummed up. A good cleaning and lube usually does it. Easier if you remove it to clean. If I remember it is only three bolts.

 

Fixed!!! Just removed the three bolts.....as suggested.....and put a bit of heat on it, followed by atf and oil bath. Works good now! Bushings don't seem to be able to be replaced.
I filled the brake MC and got brake peddle back.....just no brakes. I do hear the vac assist working and helping with the peddle but regardless of how hard I push.....no stop. I am headed out to bleed per the info I read on a different post. Also read that they just may need adjusting. Can they be adjusted without pulling the hubs?
The truck came with a box of used parts. Of which I see old bearings and brake cylinders (4) as well as a brake cylinder hone and a few lug nuts.....I think.... have threaded inside and out. There are a few lugs missing. Looks like the previous owner did do some brake work. I was told that he did use the truck in parades. There was an old registration for 2017 in the glove box. Also there was used brake shoes in the back of the truck bed....scrap I assume? I get a few pictures of these things and hope that I helps with my progress in getting this used on my farm. As a final note....Dual chains are ordered as It doesn't like the snow....even the little that we got.

 

Is the issue with the Widowmaker an issue with changing the tire improperly or do they just "explode" at arbitrary times or is it someone trying to remove the lock ring prior to deflation of the tire. Would love your take on them. I'm pretty careful with things like this and do replace my own tires on my semi and tag trailer. They are not lock ring type rims but big and scary at times setting the bead.

 

I had a rear one blow apart as I was driving down the road one time. Quite the explosion, and the fun of watching the tire and half the rim pass me in the oncoming lane of traffic.

 

Take yourself to school by doing a Google search for the trade name of these rims - Firestone RH-5°. Stu

 

Brakes need bleeding before adjusting. If there are no leaks and pedal goes to floor it is usually the master cylinder. if fluid was low you probably have a leak.

 

Just came in. Two leaks at the rear fittings that enter the hub. I did bleed out one fitting.....no air. Funny story. I'm under the truck. My wife graciously came out to pump the brakes. I'm under the truck rear end at the driver side rear and she says she is pumping and holding.....but its almost to the floor. No fluid coming out.....Hummmmm.
I proceeded to taking out the bleeder and said Go ahead and pump it...there must be a block in the line. Nothing. I climbed out after she said that I should see and feel what the peddle feels like. I did and jumped in. Proceeded to pressing the brake and it only went down 1/2 way. She looked in, "I wasn't pumping that one....I was pumping the one on the Left".....ie the clutch. After a bit of a laugh I climbed back under and bleed it out fine....no air but two leaking fittings.
The observation that I make while under there. The drivers side has one line going to it with a jumper to the second brake cylinder and a bleeder. The other side does not have the jumper, just dead ends with a bleeder although there is another bleeder on the front side of the hub. Is there a chance that there is a line within the brake drum to feed the second cylinder?

Another note: With the truck running. If I put my foot on the brake peddle and push it pushes back.

 

Don't know how the hydrovac works, mine doesn't. There is an old truckers joke about a new driver. Boss shows him truck and says" we double clutch here". He replied "I ain't stupid, one of them is the clutch".

 

It is possible there is a "jumper" line inside the brake.

Push back is a good sign, means something is happening with the hydro boost.

I used to help my dad bleed the brakes on the '58 and other trucks. Took some time.

You might be able to get the used brake shoes relined if you can't find shoes. (Although that has not been an issue for these trucks afaik)

The lug for the inner dual has threads on the outside of it to secure the outer dual. Torque for these is pretty high, 450 to 500:
https://www.cbsparts.ca/admin/bullet...t%20Torque.pdf

The WM wheels are unpredictable. Many millions of miles have been run with them without incident. But, age, rust, fatigue etc conspire with the design to allow failure with catastrophic results. Must fatal accidents are probably after assembly when an error, wear or just bad luck combine to blow the wheel while it is being aired up. In service, an impact or low pressure allowing deformation could lead to the wheel coming apart. In short, plan on replacing them. As Truckdog suggest, do a search and see how these assemble, then ask yourself if you'd stand next to one.

 

Here is what I have as part of my deal.
Two of the tire/rim combinations are 22.5 inch rims with 6 bolt centers. I assume these were purchased for the front two by the previous owner. I have the two that are on the front that are different than the ones on the rear. I believe the ones on the rear are the Firestone......Widowmakers based on the research that I have done. The front ones are the face/locking ring type rims. Are these the same "dangerous" rims or are they less "dangerous". I'm not downplaying the issue just want to know what I should be spending my money on. Seems like the military type that I have seen on ebay have this type (picture included).....or simular.....face ring. In your opinion, are these viable/useable tires/rims. I definately have the widowmakers on the rear duals of my truck. They don't have the face ring as this stack of military tires have.....they have the ring on the center section of the rim.

All opinions are welcome. I am new to these "monsters"

If these military are viable options, I think purchasing 8 for the rears and use the two 22.5 for the fronts would be my plan.