Heater Luke warm
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 8
From: Kennedy, NY 14747
Heater Luke warm
Hi all,
I’m having problems with the heater not blowing hot on my 2000 excursion v10 4x4.
I am only getting about 100 deg out of the defroster ducts, same with the floor position.
I am getting about 120 deg out of the dash vents. These temps are when fully warmed up and at idle.
The temps are a little LOWER when on the road at 60-70 mph. That seems backwards?
My coolant temp is around 200 deg. Confirmed by my scanner, plus the gauge is in the center. The level is full. The heater control valve seems to be working fine.
the inlet and outlet on the front heater core are both very hot.
I suspected a blend door issue. So I removed the actuator. It’s working. I manually moved the blend door, it’s working fine.
the vent position switches all seem to be working. Everything switches as it should.
I am not sure what to check next. What am I missing?
All help is appreciated. My wife drives this and she doesn’t like to freeze. I know, she’s picky, right?
I'm located in western NY.
thanks,
Joe
I’m having problems with the heater not blowing hot on my 2000 excursion v10 4x4.
I am only getting about 100 deg out of the defroster ducts, same with the floor position.
I am getting about 120 deg out of the dash vents. These temps are when fully warmed up and at idle.
The temps are a little LOWER when on the road at 60-70 mph. That seems backwards?
My coolant temp is around 200 deg. Confirmed by my scanner, plus the gauge is in the center. The level is full. The heater control valve seems to be working fine.
the inlet and outlet on the front heater core are both very hot.
I suspected a blend door issue. So I removed the actuator. It’s working. I manually moved the blend door, it’s working fine.
the vent position switches all seem to be working. Everything switches as it should.
I am not sure what to check next. What am I missing?
All help is appreciated. My wife drives this and she doesn’t like to freeze. I know, she’s picky, right?
I'm located in western NY.
thanks,
Joe
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 8
From: Kennedy, NY 14747
Dweber, thanks for the reply.
I did check that. I have heat on both sides of that valve.
please correct me if I’m wrong. It looks like vacuum is applied to that valve Only when you switch to max ac. Otherwise coolant runs through at all times.
I do have vacuum there on max ac only. I can also feel something move in that valve when switching max ac on and off.
So I think that valve is ok.
Do I have that right?
thanks,
Joe
I did check that. I have heat on both sides of that valve.
please correct me if I’m wrong. It looks like vacuum is applied to that valve Only when you switch to max ac. Otherwise coolant runs through at all times.
I do have vacuum there on max ac only. I can also feel something move in that valve when switching max ac on and off.
So I think that valve is ok.
Do I have that right?
thanks,
Joe
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 8
From: Kennedy, NY 14747
hello, 01
no, the rear heat is about the same as the front.
sorry, should have included that info.
thanks,
Joe
no, the rear heat is about the same as the front.
sorry, should have included that info.
thanks,
Joe
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 540
From: Rock Hill, SC
Could be a coolant thermostat, could be a worn water pump impeller, could also be a blocked heater hose fitting on the block.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 8
From: Kennedy, NY 14747
The thermostat is a couple years old. Not sure of the brand.
I don’t think there is a problem with it. My scanner is showing proper operation and temps are running in the 200 degree range.
Plus my infrared temp gun shows correct temps when pointed at the block below the t/stat housing.
At this point I might as well replace because of age to see if I get lucky. But all signs say it’s working fine.
thanks,
Joe
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 8
From: Kennedy, NY 14747
I will drain some coolant to change the thermostat for the hell of it. I will pull the hose to the heater control valve to inspect for build up at the same time.
I see people mentioning warn water pump impellers in my research. And I have seen that once or twice over the years.
The question I have with that is. Wouldn’t I be having overheating problems? Or at least erratic coolant temps if the impeller is that bad?
My scanner is showing consistent temps between 200-210 when driving.
thanks,
Joe
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 8
From: Kennedy, NY 14747
My local Ford dealer didn’t have a thermostat in stock.
They should have one tomorrow. I hope to work on it again tomorrow evening or Wednesday.
I will give an update if the thermostat made any difference. Or if I find anything else.
All your ideas and comments are appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
They should have one tomorrow. I hope to work on it again tomorrow evening or Wednesday.
I will give an update if the thermostat made any difference. Or if I find anything else.
All your ideas and comments are appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 8
From: Kennedy, NY 14747
There hasn’t been any work recent work done on the cooling system. But I did think of a air lock and went thru the burping process just in case.
I will do it again after changing the stat, etc.
thanks for the idea.
Joe
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Glenn dale md
Could be a blocked heater core. I just changed mine before the head gaskets went on my truck. When I finally got it out I blew in it and blew in the new one. Huge diff in flow. The harder part for me was pulling the hose connectors off the heater core. I ended up using really long needle nose pliers with a 45 bend.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 8
From: Kennedy, NY 14747
Could be a blocked heater core. I just changed mine before the head gaskets went on my truck. When I finally got it out I blew in it and blew in the new one. Huge diff in flow. The harder part for me was pulling the hose connectors off the heater core. I ended up using really long needle nose pliers with a 45 bend.
The core was what I suspected at first along with the blend door.
But when I was under the dash I could touch both the inlet and outlet of the core. Both were very hot. Plus all the lines under the hood seem hot. So I don’t think that’s it at this point.
I plan on rechecking all that when I mess with it again later.
thanks,
Joe
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 880
Likes: 13
From: Northcentral Wisconsin
Yes,on ours 1/2 the heater core was plugged. It's honestly not that hard to change. The worst part was the quick couplers in the engine bay. I cut the ends off the heater core and pulled them into the engine bay where I could reach them.