I wasn't going to post this because it sounds stupid to me, but my curiosity has gotten the best of me, so here goes.

I have a 360 from a parts truck. The engine is seized, I assume it's from sitting in the timber for 25 years, but it may have been put in the timber due to mechanical failure. I have some Gibbs Penetrating Oil in the cylinders to see if I can get it to spin. While I am waiting, I am slowly taking the engine apart. This is the first engine I have ever taken apart by myself. I am using Steve Christ's book as a guide.

I bought a 1250 lb. capacity stand at a local parts store, and I could not get all four arms on the head unit to attach to the motor and have it centered and level. Is there a procedure to do so that I am missing?

I have three of the four arms attached, and the front of the engine is propped up by a 2x12 under the lip of the oil pan. Without the wood propping up the front, the back of the engine block sags into the head unit of the stand, making it impossible to rotate the engine to work on the bottom end. I think it sags because the bolts that I do have attached are all at or near the top of the block.

I suppose I could go to a local shop and have a couple of longer arms made for the stand, but I was wondering if I had missed something obvious. I also no longer have the rented cherry picker I used to get the engine out of the bed of my truck and onto the stand.

On an interesting side note, I took the rocker arm assemblies off last night and there is still what looks like assembly lube on the bolt threads. On the other hand, I was taking the exhaust manifold off the passenger side and one of the 'ears' fell off the manifold. It's too bad, cause there is absolutely no pitting on either manifold.

 

The arms should be somewhat adjustable. I've never had a problem getting a v8 on a stand using all 4 but, some of the sixes are problems. Sometimes you have to use the hole that doesn't have any threads in it and get a long enough bolt to put a nut on the backside. They won't wlays "center" real good. Close is good enough. As for the turning, They are all that way. The weight of the motor puts it in a bind. Lifting the front helps. As it gets lighter it'll get easier.

 

Thanks Stepman!

I didn't think to put a nut on the back of a long bolt for that hole!

I am pretty sure I can get the arm to reach that one. I'll feel better if I can get all four arms on.

I was hoping that once I got the intake and heads off, the sagging would be less pronounced. I was worried about the stress on the bolts, and the threads, and the block.

I'll report back on whether I can get the engine freed up with the Gibbs - it's supposed to be the real deal for rusted pistons...

 

"I was hoping that once I got the intake and heads off, the sagging would be less pronounced. I was worried about the stress on the bolts, and the threads, and the block. "

Those bolts always worry me too but, after 20 years of doing it,I haven't lost one yet so I guess they're okay. I still won't leave anything under the motor and always work from the top or sides...just in case.