When the X is shut off I'm getting about a 4.5A power draw from Fuse 15 (stop lamp switch, PATS, GEM) until I pull the fuse and the draw goes to zero. Replaced the fuse box, it was corroded, and pulled out the previous owner's remote start/alarm system so that it wasn't causing a problem.

Ran a scan and there are no codes with Torque Pro and there isn't any check engine light.

The obvious thing left is the GEM module but I'm trying hard not to shotgun-parts-mechanic it by replacing the GEM. Partly the cost but also the fact that we need the truck and shipping is taking forever right now.

Though perhaps it's the PATS? Or maybe part of the remote start/alarm system is still left in place somehow? (we basically just removed all the components) Is there anything else that we should typically remove from this instlall that could be causing a no-start.

The thing is, I've had the power draw for a while and it would still start. Now it won't start. Fuel is getting into the bowl.and HPOP is about 2200 PSI, cranks at 180 RPM. It seems like it should start.

Suggestions?

 

Regarding what you described as "current draw":

1. Explicitly and completely identify what you are working on as there are multiple generations and variations. We are not psychic.
2. Read BOTH of the following threads in their entirety:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...?highlight=f15
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...?highlight=f15

Once item #1 has been answered and you've reviewed the threads in item #2, more focused advice may be offered.

As far as the engine not starting, probably a different issue.

 

Good info, thanks. I'm going through all those steps. The proper way to measure parasitic draw is to start the truck, ideally run it a bit, and then shut it off, remove the key, close all doors, etc. and then wait 40min-1hr for the GEM module to go to sleep, hook up your ammeter in series on the negative terminal, remove the negative terminal, and measure the current draw once the terminal is disconnected. The problem is *the truck will not start* to do this test per the recommended method. Right now I am doing all those steps except for the starting part.

Edit: let it sit for one hour without starting and it seems to be fine now and draws less than 10 mA after the GEM goes to sleep (when tested per above). So it seems you don't need to start the truck and/or run it to get this to work. Still draws 4.5A when door is open (dome lights etc on) and that seems high but for now I'll live with that. Still won't start though. Have plenty of power from batteries (plus have big battery charger hooked to it with 40A and 200A start assist). No smoke out the tailpipe, nothing, not a burp.

So focusing on the starting issue: what can I do to get this truck to start? I suspect it may have something to do with the remote start/security system I removed. Is there something they may have hooked up there that would prevent it from starting?

2000 Ford Excursion 7.3

 

Got spark?
Did you try starting fluid to see if the engine fires?

 

Just an update cause it's the right thing to do..... got it running And I feel a bit stupid. Somehow during all the work we were doing we unhooked the DP Tuner F6 (love the chip BTW) and when I went into the manual it said that this causes a no start (theft prevention). Sure enough, when we pulled the chip she started right up. Sheesh. Well, at least I know my electrical system much better now

 

Ok, another update. After we got it running we must have done something because now it won't run again. Things we've done to it:

* replaced interior fuse box with one without corrosion
* disconnected chip completely
* shimmed injectors (all right at correct gap and they pass the buzz test nicely)
* did the quarter mod to make sure valve cover connectors are tight- they are
* measured all glow plug resistances- they are good
* swapped out the ICM with one from my good running 7.3 F-250. No change. Also checked all the wiring connections from the ICM to the injectors and they are good.
* put in new Ford OEM cam position sensor- no change
* verified fuel bowl was getting fuel
* we have good injection pressure (over 2500 psi) and >200 RPM crank

It seems to want to start. Rumbles really rough with some white smoke but won't smooth out or stay running at all.

Torquepro with the 7.3 modules says there are no error codes.

FORScan Lite has the following errors:

P1000 OBD system readiness test not complete
P1876 Transfer case 2-wheel drive solenoid circuit open or short to ground
B1352 Ignition key in circuit fault

Will any of these errors cause the no-start I'm having?

 

Any ideas here folks?