I hooked up a noid light and it flashes bright the first few pulses then dims out, but is still pulsing, it stays strong if I spin it slow..is this common?? Haven’t messed with this kind of test before

 

Don't worry about anything else until you pull the codes.

 

Just for you, I went outside just now and I pulled the codes....Code 11, and it’s the same code as all 3 other ECM’s stated as well.

 

That is the "all good" code, isn't it? If it is running so poorly, you'd think it would set codes. Maybe it isn't running long enough to set codes?

Black smoke out the exhaust is usually a sign of a rich condition. Are the new injectors not closing, bleeding fuel into the cylinders?

 

Yea, “System Pass”
It only dropped 14 psi in 24 hours, I’m at a brick wall, unless it had some kind of catastrophic engine damage since I ran the compression and leak down tests when all this started

 

Maybe it is time to run the compression and leak down tests again to see if anything changed. Was the truck running before you replaced all the parts listed in the first post? Diagnosis over the internet can be difficult, so it may be time to get more eyes and hands on it, and certainly someone more knowledgeable than me.

 

Yea, it was running, it had a skip in it, I changed all the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, then still skipping with the dead cylinder, I diagnosed to find a faulty injector, I was moving it one day from out in the yard over to in front of my garage and it just died out, like it was running out of fuel, it was a bad pump in the tank, found everything full of rust and just went to replacing parts, everything the fuel system is new. Everything electrical tests out like it should. But yea, just ordered a compression tester off Amazon and it’ll be here tomorrow afternoon.

 

Compression test is all good and as well as the timing, same as when all this started...

 

what was the psi, for each cylinder, you could also try removing each plug wire, and see if one doesnt make much difference if it is on or off, use leather gloves, and a good insulated pair of pliers, do it at distributor cap, get them setting back on without snapping them into place, and start engine, pull one and see if miss gets worse, or not much change, plug wires have been bad right out of the box, I had 3 and the spiral-core, was broke at crimp for plug end.

 

You said you replaced the engine coolant temp sensor, but which one? The dash one the ecm one or both?

 

That is a rather odd observation. I would expect the noid light to be a fairly constant brightness and only the rate of flashing would change with engine speed, (or cranking speed). Does your +12V at the injectors stay constant when cranking? The injectors are pulsed by the PCM pulling low, possibly the ground to the PCM is bad? There is a ground to the driver side fender right at the firewall. Is this in good shape? Also, check the ground through that 2 pin connector at the battery - post. PCM main ground runs through there.

 

I think he was spinning by hand, not sure how you can crank it slow vs fast, if using the starter

 

I’ll have to check that out once I get it all put back together, I checked the ECM pins for ground and many other things while I had the computer out and it ohms good, but maybe I’ll take it loose and make sure it’s a great connection

You don’t crank the engine as there’s no way in hell to get the timing right, you can spin the test distributor and see if the coil is firing and the injectors are pulsing without the noise/vibration of the engine trying to crank. I used a drill to spin it about 400 rpm

 

What? explain please, if you used a different distributor, to check injectors, and they fire, then have you checked distributor in truck, to see if it fires them.