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I am considering another 4x4 Diesel Ex. Totally stock, 300k miles. Florida truck, so no body/frame issues - except some roof rust. It looks like surface rust only. I figure I can wipe it out with 80grit and some Ospho, then follow with primer and Raptor.
How close it is to the windshield weatherstripping would be where I would focus. Try to lift it up a little and see. Surface rust is one thing-but behind the windshield there is a common area to rust out.
-Seems- to be ok under there. I didn’t want to pull it up too far, but from what I can see, the paint is intact.
I’m taking a screwdriver over there today to check for any serious rust under the roof rails. All the rest looks ok.
The guy wants $8k for it. Seems like a decent bargain given the prices of these things. But I definitely don’t want to get into another major body repair project like I had on my last one.
I am considering another 4x4 Diesel Ex. Totally stock, 300k miles. Florida truck, so no body/frame issues - except some roof rust. It looks like surface rust only. I figure I can wipe it out with 80grit and some Ospho, then follow with primer and Raptor.
The guy’s price is pretty reasonable.
Pics included. Thoughts?
Im very interested in seeing what route you take. Mine isn’t as extensive as yours but nonetheless needs attention at some point. I was quoted $800 for Bullet Liner (same as Line-X). I’m also wondering if just same color paint may be a better choice. I’m leaning toward the Bullet Liner in black color (color match would look funny and nearly 50% more). My concern there would be an increase in heat, however being nearly 1/8” thick, and being it’s a “rubberized” material, it may have insulation and sound deadening properties.
It is bone stock. It has 300k miles but the PO had 14 years of receipts showing the PO’s father taking the truck to the Ford dealership to have the fluids changed - every 3 months - regardless of miles. It spent its whole life in FL and is perfectly clean and rust free everywhere except the roof - and that’s just surface stuff.
A big concern is the condition of the roof ditch from the C-pillars back. From the pictures there seems to be considerable corrosion under that seam sealer. That will need to be ground down to bare metal to remove all rust and resealed. You'll need a 2 part epoxy primer(might as well do the whole roof with it) and factory type flow on seam sealer. If left the way it is the rust and corrosion will continue and end up with pin holes and leaks.
A big concern is the condition of the roof ditch from the C-pillars back. From the pictures there seems to be considerable corrosion under that seam sealer. That will need to be ground down to bare metal to remove all rust and resealed. You'll need a 2 part epoxy primer(might as well do the whole roof with it) and factory type flow on seam sealer. If left the way it is the rust and corrosion will continue and end up with pin holes and leaks.
Thanks. I figure on using Total Boat Epoxy Primer, or 2K aero spray. Either, I think, would be sufficient here. For sealing the seams, 3M makes a flowable seam sealer that gets decent reviews. I’d imagine any good epoxy would suffice.
Thanks. I figure on using Total Boat Epoxy Primer, or 2K aero spray. Either, I think, would be sufficient here. For sealing the seams, 3M makes a flowable seam sealer that gets decent reviews. I’d imagine any good epoxy would suffice.
I used the same brand the factory robots use "Lord Fusor". It's self leveling and flows on real easy. The factory recommends the the real 2 part epoxy primer for the seams. When you grind that sealer don't be surprised if you find a few pin holes. Good luck.
I used the same brand the factory robots use "Lord Fusor". It's self leveling and flows on real easy. The factory recommends the the real 2 part epoxy primer for the seams. When you grind that sealer don't be surprised if you find a few pin holes. Good luck.
I would caution you on the use of epoxy adhesives if that's what you're considering unless you're coating over it. Epoxy has no UV protection and dries hard as rock, ie it's not flexible. Coating with Line-x or another product of the like will permanently seal and you never have to maintain it (wax etc). I have various spots of minor surface rust, not as extensive as yours and having mine coated estimates $800. It should provide heat and sound insulation even being black in color, and lasts forever unlike paint.
Recently picked up a 2001 7.3 to replace my 20 year old truck I rolled and totaled Sept. 2019. Texas truck. It was advertised as rust free but delivered with rust on roof. Nothing like that one but needed attention. Two tone Limited. Had everything painted above the Arizona Beige $950.
As already mentioned the rails will have to come off that and everything down to metal. It's gonna be a lot of work and time if DIY + paint if not doing it yourself. I'd be checking for existing water intrusion if I were you. Good chance it's already leaking.
I would caution you on the use of epoxy adhesives if that's what you're considering unless you're coating over it. Epoxy has no UV protection and dries hard as rock, ie it's not flexible. Coating with Line-x or another product of the like will permanently seal and you never have to maintain it (wax etc). I have various spots of minor surface rust, not as extensive as yours and having mine coated estimates $800. It should provide heat and sound insulation even being black in color, and lasts forever unlike paint.
The epoxy primer is sprayed after the metal surface has been properly prepared. Then the seam sealer is flowed on, and the last step is paint. Just like the factory does it.
