Cummins to a Ford thread near you!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 180
Sorry, should have been more specific....the engine timing pin is adjustable.
EDIT: So, the way around that is also in the FSM/rebuild manual. Essentially, you put a flat plate across #1 and run the piston up to it both directions and mark the damper or crankshaft at each location and then split the difference, which is TDC.
EDIT: So, the way around that is also in the FSM/rebuild manual. Essentially, you put a flat plate across #1 and run the piston up to it both directions and mark the damper or crankshaft at each location and then split the difference, which is TDC.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 102
From: TN
Sorry, should have been more specific....the engine timing pin is adjustable.
EDIT: So, the way around that is also in the FSM/rebuild manual. Essentially, you put a flat plate across #1 and run the piston up to it both directions and mark the damper or crankshaft at each location and then split the difference, which is TDC.
EDIT: So, the way around that is also in the FSM/rebuild manual. Essentially, you put a flat plate across #1 and run the piston up to it both directions and mark the damper or crankshaft at each location and then split the difference, which is TDC.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 102
From: TN
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 180
Good deal! Yeah, the drop valve method works well too.
On another note, something you may be interested in is a "tool" to help with pump timing. Basically, take a pump gear nut and weld a smaller nut on it. When you spin he nut tight against the shaft, you can then use it to easily rotate the shat on the pump. Makes adjustments in the truck once installed much easier. If I remember, you had Seth doo yours, so you may not ever change it. Then again, sometimes you want a few more ponies!
On another note, something you may be interested in is a "tool" to help with pump timing. Basically, take a pump gear nut and weld a smaller nut on it. When you spin he nut tight against the shaft, you can then use it to easily rotate the shat on the pump. Makes adjustments in the truck once installed much easier. If I remember, you had Seth doo yours, so you may not ever change it. Then again, sometimes you want a few more ponies!
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 102
From: TN
Good deal! Yeah, the drop valve method works well too.
On another note, something you may be interested in is a "tool" to help with pump timing. Basically, take a pump gear nut and weld a smaller nut on it. When you spin he nut tight against the shaft, you can then use it to easily rotate the shat on the pump. Makes adjustments in the truck once installed much easier. If I remember, you had Seth doo yours, so you may not ever change it. Then again, sometimes you want a few more ponies!
On another note, something you may be interested in is a "tool" to help with pump timing. Basically, take a pump gear nut and weld a smaller nut on it. When you spin he nut tight against the shaft, you can then use it to easily rotate the shat on the pump. Makes adjustments in the truck once installed much easier. If I remember, you had Seth doo yours, so you may not ever change it. Then again, sometimes you want a few more ponies!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 983
Likes: 366
Agreed. Never know if I'm going to want more timing, and I have the mag base and dial indicator for that process also now. Starting with the 18* pin timed I should be pretty close to what I want for towing...we'll see. Seth seemed to agree that was a good starting point.
The pump timing pin is fairly accurate, the cam gear timing pin is not. You're way better off using the drop valve method to find TDC over the cam gear pin. The tool that ExSwap was talking about above (ppic below) will help if you're using the dial indicator in the delivery valve hole method of timing. It allows you to turn the pump easily while the gear is disconnected.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 102
From: TN
The p-pump was just professionally rebuilt, maxed/balanced, and pin timed at 18*.
Drop valve method is going to be used to find absolute TDC to make sure that the housing for the existing timing pin is correct, but nothing else.
You building a Cummins project too out of curiosity?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 983
Likes: 366
Agreed. Never know if I'm going to want more timing, and I have the mag base and dial indicator for that process also now. Starting with the 18* pin timed I should be pretty close to what I want for towing...we'll see. Seth seemed to agree that was a good starting point.
In the above post you said "Never know if I'm going to want more timing" and you also mentioned later that you had a dial indicator setup. The tool (easily made) will help with the dial indicator method of pump timing. Of course its not needed if you're planning on running the 18* Seth set for you at the pump pin.
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Last edited by Antonm; Jun 11, 2021 at 11:40 AM.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 983
Likes: 366
Yeah, I own three p-pump 12 valve Cummins engines at the moment. One in a 97 Dodge (where the factory put it), one I'm in the middle of swapping into a 2010 F250, and one that's destined for my 2005 Excursion (in fact the only reason I bought the Excursion was because I had the 12 valve, and it needed a cool place to call home). But the Excursion swap won't start for about another year as I've got to get the F250 swap finished and rebuild the Excursion's 12 valve and associated NV4500.
Below is the thread on another forum about the F250 swap ( mods, if linking to another forum isn't allowed then I apologize and just delete it).
https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads...-swap.2540065/
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Last edited by Antonm; Jun 11, 2021 at 11:47 AM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 180
@Antonm generally the pictures here load up pretty big. I do like it personally, but it's a bit different than other forums I'm on.
@thor363 Meet Antonm, he's a regular over on the Cummins Forum and has some good insight on the Cummins specific stuff, swaps, more power, etc.
I may or may not have told him that this is the only X specific forum worth subscribing to.....
@thor363 Meet Antonm, he's a regular over on the Cummins Forum and has some good insight on the Cummins specific stuff, swaps, more power, etc.
I may or may not have told him that this is the only X specific forum worth subscribing to.....
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 102
From: TN
Sorry, should have been more specific....the engine timing pin is adjustable.
EDIT: So, the way around that is also in the FSM/rebuild manual. Essentially, you put a flat plate across #1 and run the piston up to it both directions and mark the damper or crankshaft at each location and then split the difference, which is TDC.
EDIT: So, the way around that is also in the FSM/rebuild manual. Essentially, you put a flat plate across #1 and run the piston up to it both directions and mark the damper or crankshaft at each location and then split the difference, which is TDC.
Thanks again! David.
