Downshifting VS neutral braking?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2019
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From: Fowler Colorado
Downshifting VS neutral braking?
Thought I’d throw this up for discussion since there’s so many opinions about it. What do you 5 speed guys prefer normally? For stopping do you throw it in neutral and just brake? Or do you downshift with clutch or float to downshift? Just curious I normally put it in neutral and just use brakes because I feel like every little bit of stress I can save the clutch might be worth it
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: western SD
Normally I let the backpressure from the engine slow the truck. If the truck is not slowing quickly enough, I apply the brakes while it is still in gear, down shifting when the RPMs get low enough for the lower gear.
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2007
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There is also a second order benefit of downshifting: better fuel economy. While some will argue that shifting into neutral is better for fuel economy, I have found that letting weight push the motor more is beneficial to fuel consumption compared to coasting in neutral. Especially if the computer senses the situation and de-fuels. By shifting into neutral, the motor will still burn idle fuel to keep it from stalling.
Third order effect of not shifting into neutral is (as FinnisStroker touches on) that there is commonly a lag in getting back into power. By staying in gear, I can instantly apply power if necessary.
With a stick, the only scenario I do not downshift is if I have to brake suddenly and there is not enough time to work all the pedals. Put another way, when shifting I rev-match / float rather than let the clutch absorb the RPM differences. If I have to stop quickly, it is a bit hard to toe-heel with the pickup's pedal configuration, so I just go for the brakes and disengage the clutch.
Third order effect of not shifting into neutral is (as FinnisStroker touches on) that there is commonly a lag in getting back into power. By staying in gear, I can instantly apply power if necessary.
With a stick, the only scenario I do not downshift is if I have to brake suddenly and there is not enough time to work all the pedals. Put another way, when shifting I rev-match / float rather than let the clutch absorb the RPM differences. If I have to stop quickly, it is a bit hard to toe-heel with the pickup's pedal configuration, so I just go for the brakes and disengage the clutch.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 949
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From: Fowler Colorado
Normally if I downshift I rev match as well. Way I see it is a brake job is probably half price of a clutch. Enjoying the inputs tho y’all have some good advice
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: North Texas
I just slow down like others. Unless around 1000rpm then clutch in and watch traffic. Total stop goes to neutral...slow roll depends on speed, but 10mph and a quick throttle blip and back into 3rd for me. That is my tire height/trans ratios/axle ratio.
Constant downshifting is harder on the clutch assembly per South Bend and more wear on those syncronizer rings.
Constant downshifting is harder on the clutch assembly per South Bend and more wear on those syncronizer rings.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Bahstun
my 99 taco 2.7 I4 still had oem clutch in it after 180k miles and i wasnt easy on it
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 664
Likes: 129
From: Columbia, MD
Slightly different opinion, from an E4OD driver who usually is lightly loaded. I'm not looking to get more long life out of the brakes. Pads and shoes are much cheaper than transmission or clutch, so I prefer to put the long-term wear on the brakes. Where I will downshift with the auto- turning off OD or downshifting into 2nd with the selector- is a steep or long grade where I don't want to overheat the brakes on that grade, lose brakes, and have a run-away right then and there. I'll use the engine and transmission to help keep the brakes cool and working for that grade, but not for general stopping.
One conclusion I've made is that D1 is not a good choice for engine braking; I'm so light in the rear that the wheels will slide and hop rather than drive the engine faster. Might be different in 4wd.
One conclusion I've made is that D1 is not a good choice for engine braking; I'm so light in the rear that the wheels will slide and hop rather than drive the engine faster. Might be different in 4wd.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: AZ
Jose, I just don't know of a exhaust brake that would fit on a Irate T4 setup.
CNCFAB
Joined: Apr 2020
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At about 65mph facing a hill I'll push the 'noise' button. If I get down to 45mph then I'll pull it into 2nd watching EGT's all the time. On the downhill side I just let it slow down at the top of the hill and use the brakes at intervals to let them cool inbetween. The new trucks, put it in D and go, simple. The OBS you have to work at it. I'm sure there are many, many who will argue with me over this but I have real life experience at 10 thousand miles a year for 15 years going across country. If I hadn't paid attention I would be in the ditch with a 5er on our heads.
Jose, I just don't know of a exhaust brake that would fit on a Irate T4 setup.
Jose, I just don't know of a exhaust brake that would fit on a Irate T4 setup.
As far as an exhaust brake with a t4 kit, the inline pacbrake works(at least on 99-03, I would imagine it would squeeze in on an obs as well), it welds in the bottom of the downpipe. It is a stand alone unit, with its own compressor,tank, electronics etc. They work very well. I plan to install one on my 99 at some point
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: AZ
ESwift, thanks but I should of mentioned that was freeway driving. On back roads steep downhills and curves I don't hesitate to use 2nd for breaking. I should check out the pacbrake because sometimes I get real nervous, like when someone cuts in front of you when everybody up ahead is braking hard. I've had three OBS's and for some reason that I can't figure out this OX has the best braking of all of them and I've worked on the brakes on all of them.