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My stock 0-60 is absolute garbage. It lacks power and I dont feel it’s anywhere where it should be. Ive attached a video and it’s over 15 sec to get to 60.
I have replaced all of the following and have these mods
4” exhaust, 6637 filter, John’s woods shift accumulator, all of diesel o-rings replacement kit, new up pipes. All of this was done with a very respected 7.3 guy on the X board so I know it was done right. I’m also running 285/75r18 tires slightly less than 35” height and narrower than 35” width. We did a injector test with my friends Ford scanner and it tested fine. There are no codes.
luckily I have a PHP with tunes to keep me able to move on the road, when I use it there is very respectable power gains. I have hit 21 psi on my turbo gauge before so I know there’s no turbo leaks.
However I dont know what to think of my stock performance situation. I can’t even spin my wheels the slightest on a PHP tune of +60HP. Also I have 179k miles on this truck.
Thoughts or directions to point me?
Only 21psi with a 60hp tune is a place to start looking. You should be hitting the defuel mark of 24psi in a mild tune. I can see 30 plus # on my 40hp tune if I get on it.
Start with a boost leak detector and check air filter. Make sure your wastegate is still clipped to the rod, that darn little C clip can come off if it's not completely seated correctly during under hood work. Check your EBPV as well, tho it would be a much more audible indicator if it were partly closed
Not sure how much your large tires are hurting your empty accel, but it's definitely not good for towing purposes
Only 21psi with a 60hp tune is a place to start looking. You should be hitting the defuel mark of 24psi in a mild tune. I can see 30 plus # on my 40hp tune if I get on it.
Start with a boost leak detector and check air filter. Make sure your wastegate is still clipped to the rod, that darn little C clip can come off if it's not completely seated correctly during under hood work. Check your EBPV as well, tho it would be a much more audible indicator if it were partly closed
Not sure how much your large tires are hurting your empty accel, but it's definitely not good for towing purposes
My current turbo is the stock housings, but KC SXE drop in turbine and Riff Raff 4+4 billet wheel, but when it was still stock, yes, I hit those numbers then too. You can hit 30-32# with a stock turbo, a hot tune that eliminates the defuel, and an aftermarket wastegate actuator or even stock one with 7 turn mod. assuming you have no boost leaks and all your components are at 100% operating condition
That's why I said only 21# on a 60hp tune points to a couple places to look. Which also cost nothing to inspect. Who knows, just unhooking the red hose from the actuator and clamping it under a boot clamp may give you all you are looking for. It can start to open the wastegate as early as 5-7psi of boost
Also, possibly when you had the bellowed uppipes installed they weren't seated well on the exhaust manifold, which would be obvious with soot there.
Also the stock turbo is out of it's Map above like 28psi (there about), so don't be mad if you want 35# but only hit 33, the hotter air the turbo produces will negate the extra psi power wise
Well I tried to test for leaks with a homemade leak tester. I need a new o ring for sure where my oil tube connects to my head cover. That and the top of my dipstick are the only two places I heard noise. I’ll also check with a spray bottle for bubbles.
What else could cause that slow of acceleration. I googled the max psi for a stock 7.3 and it says 17-18psi.
im curious what other guys time is for running basically 35” tires
You will need to go 1 step further on the leak test . You don't want air being pumped into the crankcase so you will need to hook up the leak detector only to the plastic tube that connects to the turbo. Remove the section that ties into the doghouse on top of the valve cover that way you are only putting pressurized air straight into the turbo
You will need to go 1 step further on the leak test . You don't want air being pumped into the crankcase so you will need to hook up the leak detector only to the plastic tube that connects to the turbo. Remove the section that ties into the doghouse on top of the valve cover that way you are only putting pressurized air straight into the turbo
which plastic tube are you referring to? The air intake tube? Or another?
kC turbos has a video where they hook it up to the air intake/filter plastic tube.
which plastic tube are you referring to? The air intake tube? Or another?
kC turbos has a video where they hook it up to the air intake/filter plastic tube.
In this picture there are two band clamps, you will need to remove the section in the middle of the two band clamps and only hook your tester to the band clamp on the right
Yeah that’s how I did it. I’ll have to get a better psi gauge to see if it loses pressure to fast. I was just using a bike pressure gauge. I saw no air bubbles when I sprayed soapy water on all of boots. I also have a deleted EBPV so that isn’t it.
Low boost could just be another symptom of the real problem. I would take a peek at the ICP/HPOP psi numbers with a scan tool if you haven't already, as well as the IPR readings if you haven't already. A laptop with Forscan would work fine for that.
Next stop would be check the fuel pressure which you have to do mechanically. For about $15 in parts and an afternoon of fooling around you can quickly figure out if there is any problem there.
Boost leaks can cause a loss of performance also but if it's a huge enough leak to cause a drastic loss there is a good change you'd be hearing some sort of air noise under boost. A inspection of the intercooler pipes and couplers is easy. Check to to make sure that sharp part on the power steering pump hasn't rubbed a hole in the hot side intercooler pipe. I caught that one and zip tied the pipe out of the way before it rubbed a hole. (Horrible design...there was plenty of room to route the piping safely away from that.)
Yeah that’s how I did it. I’ll have to get a better psi gauge to see if it loses pressure to fast. I was just using a bike pressure gauge. I saw no air bubbles when I sprayed soapy water on all of boots. I also have a deleted EBPV so that isn’t it.
any other thoughts on what it could be?
If you have air coming out of the oil dipstick it is not hooked up correctly
You can check for a leak a turbo mount. Fire the engine up cold. stick your had around the rear of the baby butt. If its leaking you should be able to feel the hot gasses on you hand at least I can feel mine leaking back there. My boost number are lower than yours.
My acceleration is lot better and a lot louder even with the leak. Your truck seems too quite to me. It does not sound like a BIG stinky.
Lack of codes and low power sounds like low fuel pressure. Any way to check that? Hutch and Harpoon mods?
My mind headed the same direction. The other guys are already covering possible boost or exhaust drive pressure leak concerns. Wes444 had a good point about the wastegate actuator.
Here’s some links for the OP on checking fuel pressure and the Hutch mod. My thought was possibly the in tank screens are clogged.
My mind headed the same direction. The other guys are already covering possible boost or exhaust drive pressure leak concerns. Wes444 had a good point about the wastegate actuator.
Here’s some links for the OP on checking fuel pressure and the Hutch mod. My thought was possibly the in tank screens are clogged.
I tested the fuel pressure without my tunes on, and it basically sits between 60-62.
As far as the fuel tank issues i dropped it last year, replaced my filters and put a new fuel footing in there so it should be great there.
I figured out how to properly test ad pressurize the turbo system for leaks and didnt seem to find anything noteable. ill double check in the next few days
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