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Yes small world im in Beachwood and get you build thread started great people here on this site. I'm heading out to see family in IL and will be stopping to see Kevin in Akron to pick up parts, thanks to this site. I also am still sanding and sanding and sanding.
Welcome!
The nose of your truck is 52 with the coveted 6 cyl insignia on the hood. The cab has an early small window.
I can't make out the cowl/firewall stamping from that picture. Can you post one of the beginning of the numbers?
What you show is the vehicle number down the assembly line and what appears to be 1L which would be a November something assembly date.
Also picture of the dash, close-up of the box side would help us sort it out for you.
Tim
There should be a number in front of the CS that would indicate the body color.
Your truck was built at Chester, PA (CS) on November 1, 1950 (Henry Ford skipped the letter "I" in these stampings) December code is M. The 639 is just the number of the vehicle down the assembly line and we haven't been able to decipher it any further. All assembly plants did things their own way.
Your picture shows what I thought about the box. It's a late box, probably the same truck the front end came from. I'd guess someone had a good early cab that got matched to the late sheetmetal. While some pieces are different, it all swaps as a unit.
You might check the frame number - passenger side top frame rail close to the motor mount angled crossmember. They're stamped light so you might have to scrub the dirt off with steel wool and shine a light across the top rail at an angle. It should start and end with a stamped hollow star. That will verify whether you have a 50 cab/chassis with 52 front end and box OR a 52 chassis with a 50 cab.
A little more info that may be of interest, my 48 F1 is stamped 12L for the build date. When I removed layers of after-market/farm paint I found the factory yellow stencil date of 11-11-1948. My 48 was also wearing 52 front sheet metal. You just never know.
Sorry for the radio silence - holiday and work schedule have been a huge time consumer.
Had some time over the last weekend and today to get a few things done on the truck. First I removed the 100lb C-channel rear bumper which I will attach a picture to. It is available for anyone interested. I would hate to just bring it to the scrap yard. Took over 3 hours of grinding old square nuts and heating with a MAP gas torch. The neighbor has an oxy-acetylene torch that ran out of O2...
Then next order of business was a little love for the 289. I noticed the sound of some small misfire. Took one look and found a disconnected plug. Which brought me to just buying a new cap, set of wires and plugs. They are cheap enough and of unknown vintage.
Last is a question for some of the more senior members here. I am re-wiring the tail lights, and the both sets of bullet connectors I purchased at the store do not fit the bullets on the OEM tail lights. Does anyone know what size they are supposed to be? Sure I could rewire them with some weather packs I have in the garage, but I was looking for something a little more period correct.
You can purchase the correct bullet connectors online from several sources. The last time I needed wiring harness parts I was also doing non-wiring work to a vintage Ford sedan and ordered everything from C&G Ford Parts. Also, Rhode Island Wire is frequently recommended, others can recommend their preferred supplier.
I would call up either company and explain what you need, if they can't help you try the other company. I don't remember a part number. I do remember when ordering wiring harness parts from C&G the guy on the other end of the phone questioned why I wasn't also ordering new bullet connectors. In my enthusiasm I had forgotten them. He added the parts to my order. More recently I called up and simply said what I wanted with no part numbers and got what I asked for (I was wiring in A/C and wanted cloth covered bullet connector wiring).
Also, I am sure other folks on this forum have had good experiences from other vendors, these two are not the only options, just the ones I know about. If you aren't in a rush wait a day or two and other suggestions will get posted.
Welcome to FTE.
My truck was also built in Chester in 1952, I was born in Chester in 1956. Years later it turned out my Father in Law worked at the Chester Ford plant during the time my Truck was made. He always teased me that he remembered building it.
Bit of a bad luck streak today. Air filter doesn't fit, forcing me to buy Edelbrock's overpriced filter. Then I shattered the glass on my brand new tail lights from Dennis Carpenter.
Anyone local have a spare lens they would be willing to ship me? $6.95 and then $13.95 from DC makes this a foolishly expensive mistake.
I was also a south jersey guy....... Burlington county........ retired then moved to Lancaster pa...... I'm still always looking for old trucks....... a hobby or a sickness?.......... not sure but it's been a lot of fun.....
While I am here, thought I would ask this question.
The non power brakes as well as the mismatched clutch are just not working for me. It takes all my weight to use both, and it is impossible for my wife to muster the strength to get the clutch all the way down.
First step was looking at brake boosters. I have a tube that is taped off on the back of the 289 manifold for a stock mustang booster, so I have the vacuum port i need.
Right now looking to stay with a drum/drum booster that has the residual valves already plumbed in at the master, and I also want to keep the stock pedals / under frame mount.
I know CPP makes a nice kit and many of the ebay sellers either rip off that casting or they are purchased and resold. Found this with some browsing that looks to be the ticket.
8" single https://www.ebay.com/itm/123810695435?ul_noapp=true
Here is my question - my understanding is that a single diaphram is enough for drums, and a dual would be for disc/drum or disc/disc. Anyone know if 8" is enough to clear the floor or do i need to go with the 7" dual? This seller has both/
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