ABS Question
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Philadelphia
ABS Question
Whats up yall?
I've had my ABS Warning Light on for a couple months. Brakes work fine, just no abs coming on. Doesn't really bother me. I am looking to clear up some of the nagging problems on my truck and wanted to tackle it this weekend. I was reading in my Haynes on how to read the ABS codes. The procedure involves jumpering some wire. I have no idea how to do this. Can this be done on the 96 and exactly how do I go about this?
I have already checked the speed sensor on the rear diff. It had one chip of metal on it, so I cleaned it off and re-installed. No change. Should I just go ahead and replace this or see what codes I have and then proceed (obviously the logical thing)? Thanks for the help as always.
One
I've had my ABS Warning Light on for a couple months. Brakes work fine, just no abs coming on. Doesn't really bother me. I am looking to clear up some of the nagging problems on my truck and wanted to tackle it this weekend. I was reading in my Haynes on how to read the ABS codes. The procedure involves jumpering some wire. I have no idea how to do this. Can this be done on the 96 and exactly how do I go about this?
I have already checked the speed sensor on the rear diff. It had one chip of metal on it, so I cleaned it off and re-installed. No change. Should I just go ahead and replace this or see what codes I have and then proceed (obviously the logical thing)? Thanks for the help as always.
One
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Philadelphia
Also my cruise control doesn't work at all. Does this add any clarity or not? If someone could give me some pointers on jumpering the wires and pulling the codes then I would be extremely grateful. Couldn't find anything through a search. Thanks.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SE Michigan
i've heard about the wire jumpering thing, but have never done it. as i recall, it is a rather simple procedure... just re-read your manual and have at it.
CC? i dunno. perhaps tied to ABS because speed sensors down? could be.
CC? i dunno. perhaps tied to ABS because speed sensors down? could be.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Philadelphia
Finally figured out the whole jumpering procedure and pulled the codes. I was getting this sequence:
Flash-Flash-Pause-Flash-Flash-Flash-Flash-Flash-Flash-Pause
After the last pause the ABS light stayed on, with no repeat of the cycle. Did I do this correctly and am I right in diagnosis of code 26? If so I believe that corresponds to a bad HCU right?
Flash-Flash-Pause-Flash-Flash-Flash-Flash-Flash-Flash-Pause
After the last pause the ABS light stayed on, with no repeat of the cycle. Did I do this correctly and am I right in diagnosis of code 26? If so I believe that corresponds to a bad HCU right?
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SE Michigan
even w/ my limited experience, this does sound right. and "26" correlates to bad HCU? ouch. HCU = hydraulic control unit. (tho, back in the day, it is a Generic Term to mean "REPLACE UNIT", vs. a specific bad electrical component of the system. -- poor diagnostics planning IMO).
i unfortunately don't have much more to offer since its an 'earlier' system (am only hip to MY02 and beyond Expl's). perhaps somebody else can offer up what a "DTC 26" is...
i unfortunately don't have much more to offer since its an 'earlier' system (am only hip to MY02 and beyond Expl's). perhaps somebody else can offer up what a "DTC 26" is...
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I have the same situation -- diagnostic just flashes "26" which equals "Bad HCU".
My Ford manual has very detailed troublshooting instructions which allowed me to track the problem to a specific solenoid valve in the HCU, but apparently none of the HCU components are available separately -- you have to buy the whole thing!
And then.... according to what I've read, once your replace the HCU you need a special Ford break-out box to enable you to bleed the HCU. This is the step that is preventing me from trying to tackle this one on my own. Anyone ever done this themselves???
My Ford manual has very detailed troublshooting instructions which allowed me to track the problem to a specific solenoid valve in the HCU, but apparently none of the HCU components are available separately -- you have to buy the whole thing!
And then.... according to what I've read, once your replace the HCU you need a special Ford break-out box to enable you to bleed the HCU. This is the step that is preventing me from trying to tackle this one on my own. Anyone ever done this themselves???
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SE Michigan
there actually is a way to bleed out yorr HCU after install -- and w/out the Ford Dealer equipment. it may sound funny, but its for real...
essentially, just R&R your part like normal then perform a usual bleed procedure (just like in the old days).
THEN, go out and perform some ABS stops. be careful to do these in a remote, open, safe area. upon your first ABS event, note that the 'air' inside of the HCU will essentially be 'forced' downstream using the brake pressure you've applied w/ your foot. a few more ABS stops will assure that the accumlater lines, etc, are filled/dumped (primed).
NEXT, go back home and do another typical bleed procedure. any air from w/in the module is now downstream and will exit thru your corners at bleeder valves. you may do this a few times if you pedal doesn't quite get 'firm' right away, tho is should if you do enuf stops.
*****
this essentially is a poorman's/backdoor module bleed procedure. all the Ford Dealer equipment does is 'simulate' an ABS event and so the internal valves are cycled, the pump motor is run, so all internal pathways are filled w/ fluid. due to physics, the brake pressure from your foor forces your fluid Downstream. you should be all set.
essentially, just R&R your part like normal then perform a usual bleed procedure (just like in the old days).
THEN, go out and perform some ABS stops. be careful to do these in a remote, open, safe area. upon your first ABS event, note that the 'air' inside of the HCU will essentially be 'forced' downstream using the brake pressure you've applied w/ your foot. a few more ABS stops will assure that the accumlater lines, etc, are filled/dumped (primed).
NEXT, go back home and do another typical bleed procedure. any air from w/in the module is now downstream and will exit thru your corners at bleeder valves. you may do this a few times if you pedal doesn't quite get 'firm' right away, tho is should if you do enuf stops.
*****
this essentially is a poorman's/backdoor module bleed procedure. all the Ford Dealer equipment does is 'simulate' an ABS event and so the internal valves are cycled, the pump motor is run, so all internal pathways are filled w/ fluid. due to physics, the brake pressure from your foor forces your fluid Downstream. you should be all set.
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