We use ULSD diesel.

Thanks FTN. Will contact cleaner work to clean the magnet? Im running a new oem IPR...

 

It's not so much cleaning the contacts as cooling the magnet. I don't think contact cleaner gets very cold.

 

Ok. Im assuming the said magnet is on the inside/male side and requires removal of the sensor.

Still in the lookout for a fuel pressure gauge to rig up.

 

Here is photo. Is the “magnet” the valve itself?

 

I'm talking about the IPR magnet.


​​​​​​​EDIT: We were typing at the same time.

 

POST EDIT: I realised that I did not disclose an important fact, which is that we were travelling with our Lance 1121 camper on the truck, at max payload. The qualifies as heavy duty use as per manual.

So we made it home. The truck that is, the camper had to stay 10km down on the gradual climbing grade that makes it up to our house on the mountains. There was no way the truck with camper could have made it, as the truck alone had a had time. The last 100 km took about 5 hours with multiple stops, especially on the hill sections. We could barely reach 30mph and all climbs had to be done in 1st gear beyond 2k rpm. The truck had a hard time keeping the revs above 2k and power was null.

Some part of the way home I thought I had the issue fixed because I realised that the ICP sensor was loose a few threads and had a small oil leak that would explain the need to increase RPM to maintain ICP and IPR pressure. It ran ok a few hundred kms after tightening but problems started again after a while and steadily worsened.

I think that its the oil. Improper oil to be specific, given that I am using shell HX7 10w40 semi blend specified for gasoline AND diesel engines. I bought it on sale and from what i´ve looked up, oil purchased hare may come from China, Armenia or Italy, nobody really knows and the shell badge on it does not guarantee the same quality. The distributor had a batch that wasnt even double sealed. This, coupled to the fact that I had to mix in a few quarts of mineral standard multigrade diesel oil to the blend out of necessity, and that I was pushing a bit over 4k miles on the oil, that I believe that the oil simply lost its properties under heavy duty use. This would explain why the scenario appeared after a few hours of run time, and the next day after cooling seemed to be better, and why the issue got worse over time to a point where overnight rest and oil cooling did nothing to help the cause. Oil is paramount for the HUEI injection system to work properly as it can return to the heads at pressures up to 3000psi.

AND, now I understand why there are so much oil threads on the powerstroke intranet. Im paying the price of first time powerstroke ownership I guess. So fresh new oil is on the way, this time as per manual spec Motorcraft 15w40 DIESEL rated oil, specific for this engine. Im following the spec sheet dogma this time, and after an hour of searching I found a pretty good deal. 1.25 gallons for equivalent of 22USD: https://www.lubricantesenlinea.cl/pr...73-litros.html so im stocking up for several oil changes.

This is my main hypothesis given all the facts i´ve gathered. FWIW when 1st symptoms appeared IPC and IPR pressures spiked up 10-15% and on the seat power feel when down reciprocally. I was obsessive looking over the EOT and temps did not increase so im sure the engine did not overheat, so I hope no damage caused. I re state it was about 300kms that were critical, so it was not a long use. I checked blow by when reaching home and it was same as before. Because if this isnt it, than I might be in for a new engine because it felt exactly like the engine was losing compression, along with a rough idle and plenty of smoke.

With regards to the filter, just to state my case, the AF filter on my truck DOES and CAN be cleaned: https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/afe-restore-kit-blue/. My enduro years and motorbike adv experience did not fool me that much.

I´ve been through a ****load of work on this truck, and am sorry to post problems, but also very thankful of everyone´s responses and kind help to the matters at hand. Will post updates as soon I have them, hopefully good news so someone down the line will not make my same mistakes.

Will check fuel pressure as well and share results just to discard this variable.

Talk to you later.

 

Nice looking rig! Woulda loved those electric jacks back when I had a slide in camper.

Please describe this oil a bit more. Got a pic, or a link?

On the trip to your house was there white smoke?

Any new codes showing?

 

@udsuth78 Looked into fueling today. Unhooked the fuel water separator from under the truck and the canister was full of water. Took it temporarily out of the system and connected tank to pre filter. Rigged up a 100psi pressure gauge to the drain valve on the fuel bowl and... guess what. 25 psi of pressure. So something is obstructing the fuel delivery. Even so, it idles smoother than before.

I´ll open the pre filter tomorrow and see how it is, clean and test again. Hopefully issue is after tank.

My fuel delivery line is/was:

- Pickup filter in tank (w/ Hutch mod).
- Fuel water separator w/10 micron filter.
- RR 10 micron external fuel filter
- Fuel pump (new)
- Fuel bowl

I´ll look into it tomorrow and try to get a healthy pressure around 50 psi.

 

Thanks! The camper is a bit old and beat up, but is a pleasure to travel in.

This is the multigrade diesel oil I mixed in. We use it on the diesel machinery here on the farm.




There was plenty of white smoke, smelled like burnt oil.

No new codes.

 

Looking to set up a DIY dual pump system to avoid these issues down the line.
I have another stock pump lying around i´ll try to rig up.


post from https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/...-system.55895/

 

These were the symptoms of my IPR sensor failing.. It would lope and shutter doing down hill set on cruise control and idling through the parking lot.. The bottom of my fuel bowl was packed with sludge and my fuel pickup was bad in the tank..

 

Yeah 25 psi fuel pressure does turn these motors into boat anchors, I've experienced it first hand myself as well. Of course I wasn't a couple hundred miles past no where, just before you get to where the hell am I, so not the same I'm sure.

I'd double check that little tube the factory filter slides on and if that checks out try the regulator. It may have picked up some gunk or something. If those don't get you anywhere maybe try a bucket test to get an idea of pump flow rate. If there's a restriction somewhere that should let you know. I think factory pump is supposed to be in the 40ish GPH range

 

I recently DIY'd a similar setup myself. Just running 1 pump though. I did move it back to the pick up at the tank though, I thought that might help it out not having to lift as far through a prefilter/water separator, plus less chances for a suction side air leak. Also stuck with 3/8 on everything but ditched all the factory stuff and ran a new single piece stainless tube from the filter head to engine bay. Then high pressure hose up to a tee on engine, and back to stainless to each head. All JIC fittings that, fingers crossed, won't have me chasing leaks every month or so. I'd suggest against the 2 micron filter also. I ran 1 at first then someone here told me it might be to much on the pump. Swapped to a 14 micron, same as factory filter rating, and noticed a difference in how the pump behaved.

 

Well I can now back up that small micron filters do not work very good long term unless you have a source of very clean fuel.

I removed the RiffRaff 10 micron pre pump filter and hooked up the line directly from tank to pump to bowl and VOILA! 50 psi fuel pressure. So each filter (water separator) and pre pump filter took a toll of about 25psi from total pressure. And they didnt seem THAT gunked up.




These filters had about 5000-6000 miles on them.
I will be switching to a larger micron pre pump filter, and a clean new water separator filter. The fuel water separator is also a 10 micron filter.
Will also rig up a secondary fuel pump. Any comments on the setup routing?

This still does not explain why the loss of power after a few hours, when the issue began to onset, then after overnights rest, it ran better. Maybe the pump began to overheat after extended forceful operation...?

 

What color was that when it was new?

I would expect 10 micron before the pump might be a bit much. I stumbled across a Wix fuel manager with 100 micron filter for cheap so that's what I went with.


It was only $35 when I bought mine maybe 2 months ago. I've pressure tested and vacuum tested it several times and hasn't failed so far.

I'd guess the pump was laboring and getting hot. Heck you tested pressure cold probably, psi could have been dipping even lower as motor was starving for fuel. Also that 50# is still a little low, especially at idle with a new pump. Mine was always over 60# idle before the change. Might want to keep looking for any other gremlins before they sneak up on ya.