Good morning, I have a recently purchased 2017 F-250 Lariat CC, 6.7L Powerstroke 4x4.
I am having a starting issue which I am having difficulty isolating.
I have a remote start key fob with a push button ignition system. All ha worked well initially and recently, my truck would not turn over after not having been started for a few days. It would act as though the batteries were dead and just start to turn, then quit. I am able to jump start when this happens, and after I do, she will start and stop the rest of the day, no problem.
I checked the batteries and found that they were low on water. I filled all the cells and it took about 1/2 gal. to bring them to full. I also charged them overnight. In removing the cables from the posts, I found that the Positive connector on the drivers side was in poor condition and had been tampered with prior to selling it to me (dealer). I replaced the terminal and all other connections seem ok. I have applied dielectric grease at each terminal.
I have a dual alternator system, but have not had the system checked.
she will crank fine after 3-4 attempts, so therein lies my dilemma.
Any thoughts?

 

Test batteries they are not the best. If it starts with jump. You need new ones. Buy in pairs

 

Batteries that needed a 1/2 gallon of distilled water may be damaged. I had a set of trailer batteries that got cooked by a malfunctioning converter. They never seemed to be the same after that and were replaced.

There are many postings on the forum of 2017+ trucks with batteries that developed leaks. Some were leaked through the inspection ports, others developed actual cracks. If it was caught early enough, the dealer replaced the battery. You're beyond that time frame so replacement is on you. Check around the battery to make sure the battery acid hasn't affected nearby parts.

 

Try not to overthink this. Either your batteries are weak, your charging system is failing or your cables are corroded and not allowing everything else to work.

If neglected, your truck could have all three issues, where overcharging alternators toast the batteries causing acidic vapors which corrode cables.

 

The solution is new batteries.

 

Half a gallon..... WoW... I would say they have had a hurtin put on them and are junk. I would put a volt meter on the system and check voltage. Would be happy with 13.2 - 14. whatever, basically see if over charging, if not it's leaking. It's not holding a charge so you need new batteries for sure.............for what ever my opinions worth............$1

 

load test the batteries, independently of each other and with the cables removed and I think you will have your answer.

Also on the top of the batteries they should have a stop that will show green for good or black for bad.

 

Use one of these and use Recondition mode:

https://smartercharger.com/products/ctek-multi-us-7002

there will be those that laugh, but laugh all you want. I’ve brought multiple batteries back from the dead that a tender wouldn’t bring back. Brough one back that I then put in the mother-in-laws car and it lasted another four years and it was literally labeled “basic battery” that was nine years old the time it died.

Just replaced an AGM that was twelve years old, actually was still working, but was going on a long trip and didn’t want to chance it.

I know many Tender fans, but I wouldn’t go back after using this for ten years now.

Obviously even spending the money on this your batteries may be to gone as others have said.

 

I followed your link and have just bought the C-TEK 7200; I figure for the price, I cannot lose IF your assessment and their claims are valid. I will return with results in a week.

 

Im taking them to be load tested today. Thank for the response.

 

Thanks all for the response. this morning, the truck again failed to start on the first 4 attempts. I then noticed a blue bar on the multi-screen that was advancing as i waited. When it got to 50%, I hit the starter button and the engine cranked. Up to this point, I have been starting it like a gasser (SoCal temps) and not waiting like one normally does with a diesel.. Is it possible that the "failure" could be a glow plug delay?

 

Oh, your not letting the glow plug cycle?

 

Are you referring to the sight glass on each battery? I have not been able to stand above the battery to view the glass for green or black...yet. I will get a step stool when I go back out.

 

Yes the sight glass.

 

A 2017 with factory batteries is due for new batteries. It is likely thos batteries are from 2016 anyway.

As a former AAA road tech and automotive shop manager, I've probably seen more batteries in more vehicles than most people will see in their entire life. Motorcraft Eye Type batteries are of the lowest grade anyway, In fact all OEM batteries are the lowest common denominator. The only purpose is to get it out of the factory and past the short warranty period. My feeling is that of many other here, scrap them and get new batteries. Buy in pairs for dual battery systems.