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I have been posting in the 61-66 forum but it has been about my engine, so I’m posting here because it’s more specific.
I replaced exhaust gaskets with dead soft aluminum and it fixed the leak. Now I can hear a ticking from the driver side at the front two. I also tore off the valve covers and discover the two middle pairs of rockers are not getting oil. What. Causes this? I rebuilt the rocker arms and cleansed out sludge from the inside. (They were quite worn and need replacing too, where do I source original non adjustable ones from?)
I think I am try the marvel mystery oil but if that doesn’t work I will do a top end rebuild, compression on all cylinders is good, oil pressure I haven’t measured yet but assume it’s fine.
I never heard this tick before because the exhaust leak was so bad. Aside from the tick the engine runs excellent, starts no matter the temperature and runs very smooth. No smoking, smells like an old engine when it runs, no overly rich either. I think it smells correct, a small sweet type smell.
Does the tick stay constant as you accelerate and decelerate? Or does it get loud on acceleration and quiet on decel? If the answer to the first question is "yes", it's valvetrain, if the second answer is yes, it's exhaust.
Might have been mentioned in the other thread...An automotive stethoscope helps by muffling engine noise and helps you pinpoint source of "tick". Hope its "tick" and not a "hammer". You just about have to go through a check list. I've seen "ticks" resulting from exhaust valve not able to close due to mis-aligned push rod. Another time I was particularly baffled by a come and go kind of tick that turned out to be the valley splash shield occasionally rubbing a push rod. Another time I had a bent push rod. So it's hard to tell until you go through a check list of possibilities.
If you think it's under the valve cover you can remove the covers and run the engine at idle. Use a wood handle to apply pressure to each rocker and see if tick quits. If you think it's a sticky lifter, some guys will drain the oil and run automatic tranny fluid in the engine for several minutes to clean the lifters. Then drain and replace with engine oil. Lifters can be replaced without pulling the intake manifold if you have the OEM type cast iron intake and use a lifter replacement tool.
Might have been mentioned in the other thread...An automotive stethoscope helps by muffling engine noise and helps you pinpoint source of "tick". Hope its "tick" and not a "hammer". You just about have to go through a check list. I've seen "ticks" resulting from exhaust valve not able to close due to mis-aligned push rod. Another time I was particularly baffled by a come and go kind of tick that turned out to be the valley splash shield occasionally rubbing a push rod. Another time I had a bent push rod. So it's hard to tell until you go through a check list of possibilities.
If you think it's under the valve cover you can remove the covers and run the engine at idle. Use a wood handle to apply pressure to each rocker and see if tick quits. If you think it's a sticky lifter, some guys will drain the oil and run automatic tranny fluid in the engine for several minutes to clean the lifters. Then drain and replace with engine oil. Lifters can be replaced without pulling the intake manifold if you have the OEM type cast iron intake and use a lifter replacement tool.
I have used a stethoscope to find where it is. It is for sure not an exhaust leak, it’s constant, and only gets faster, maybe a slight bit louder, but not by much. I attached a shop vac on reverse to blow in through the pipe and sprayed water all over the manifold to check for leaks and found non. I know it’s coming from somewhere in the engine, and also know it’s not the fuel pump.
Im fairly sure that it’s a lifter because what else would it be? My rocker shafts are worn too, and the middle two sets are not getting oil, could this be the issue? It ticks with and without the splash shield. If I have to remove lifters, I also have a bad leak from the back of the intake, so I would pull it off, and get new lifters, cam, timing chain, and probably rocker assembly.
I don’t know if all of this is necessary though, maybe a bit of marvel mystery oil for a little bit and then chain he the oil?
I have used a stethoscope to find where it is. It is for sure not an exhaust leak, it’s constant, and only gets faster, maybe a slight bit louder, but not by much. I attached a shop vac on reverse to blow in through the pipe and sprayed water all over the manifold to check for leaks and found non. I know it’s coming from somewhere in the engine, and also know it’s not the fuel pump.
Im fairly sure that it’s a lifter because what else would it be? My rocker shafts are worn too, and the middle two sets are not getting oil, could this be the issue? It ticks with and without the splash shield. If I have to remove lifters, I also have a bad leak from the back of the intake, so I would pull it off, and get new lifters, cam, timing chain, and probably rocker assembly.
I don’t know if all of this is necessary though, maybe a bit of marvel mystery oil for a little bit and then chain he the oil?
When I mentioned an exhaust valve leak earlier it was because the push rod was misaligned and not letting the valve close.
I'm not sure how spraying water over the intake will reveal a leak. I think if that showed a leak then the leak is so bad you'd be also sucking lots of oil into the cylinders or not running right or oil would be running over the outside of the engine.
Also not sure how you know it ticks with and without the valley splash shield...you have to remove the intake manifold to remove the splash shield.
Yeah, maybe worn rocker shaft or worn rockers blocking oil from coming out of the rockers. If you remove the distributor and use a drill to run the oil pump (counter clockwise) you should see oil oozing from all 16 rocker arms. If two arms are not producing oil then maybe that's where the issue is.
Sorry there has been a misunderstanding. I sprayed water from a bottle over the exhaust manifold, not the intake. I thought you meant by "splash shield" was the oil drain in the valve cover, under the rockers, I did not see that you said "valley" in there. My mistake. When you say pushrod misaligned, do you mean the rod is not seated correctly in the rocker arm? If so, I think its simple to get it in the correct position in the arm, and not to the side, but if I am missing something let me know. I did see oil coming out of all but two pairs of arms.
I am leaning to it being a rocker issue, to fix the worn rockers do I have to buy new or is there another option I am not aware of?
I have been following your thread, read the ones in 66 also. I have similar eschew with my 70 390 ticking. Winter here so stuck in the garage for the next five months. Might go out and pull my dipstick for a listen. (Wink wink) have you tried removing your fan belts for a listen. I went out bought stethoscope but i still not sure of what I hear, might be fuel pump. You should not have a dry spot (rockers). Goggle fe oil passages maybe. Perhaps you could snake the passages out in the head under valve covers for the two rockers? Don't know. I think I have a set of used rockers on the shelf as i went too adjustable. Any ways please post here if you find the solution. RKDxpress.
Sorry there has been a misunderstanding. I sprayed water from a bottle over the exhaust manifold, not the intake. I thought you meant by "splash shield" was the oil drain in the valve cover, under the rockers, I did not see that you said "valley" in there. My mistake. When you say pushrod misaligned, do you mean the rod is not seated correctly in the rocker arm? If so, I think its simple to get it in the correct position in the arm, and not to the side, but if I am missing something let me know. I did see oil coming out of all but two pairs of arms.
I am leaning to it being a rocker issue, to fix the worn rockers do I have to buy new or is there another option I am not aware of?
The push rod was not seated into the rocker arm correctly. Who ever installed the adjustable rockers must not have checked. It held the respective exhaust valve slightly open.
Should be able to get new rockers and/or shafts at Napa, Jegs, Summit, etc I'm not crazy about buying used rockers or shafts unless I knew the seller.
Well I used marvel mystery oil for 200miles and it did not change much at all. I then changed my oil, and as suggested in another thread, used Lucas Oil stabilizer. It lessened the ticking slightly but not enough to take away my concern.
I figured I don’t need to start a new thread for this issue.
anyway, I started tearing down the engine. The bolt for the rocker arm on the number 1 cylinder is pretty stuck. I sprayed it down with Pb, anything else to do with this? I rather save those few extra $$ than have the machine shop remove a snapped bolt.
Bad news: a friend came over to try and mess the truck and tinker on it, decided to try and remove the stud and well, snap went it. Off to the machine shop..
I don’t think it is a good idea to drill and tap into the head myself, especially with a hole that will have to do with the rockers.
I just pulled my cam out, the bearing look excellent, and I removed the heads and you can see a little cross hatch, I’m beginning to think that the previous owner saying it was never rebuilt was not true. Or at least not to his knowledge.
I have attached the pictures of my cam, it looks okay to me but I’m a beginner. The pictures are the few concerning spots I have, there’s the small areas that look like chips but also look like it was cast and ground that way. I don’t know, and then there’s the dark spots.
Two lifters were collapsed. The new ones I have are slightly taller on the outside, but when you look at where the pushrod sits, it looks to be correct. How can I measure this to be certain?
Edit: my crankshaft spacer is also stuck. Is there any way to remove without cutting it and without using a claw puller? Or do I have to go on the 30min drive over to the auto parts store to rent one
I included this picture of the head for the casting number, as far as I can tell it’s just a standard set from mid 66 correct?
Head # c6ae reads 66-68 352/390/428 fe. Balancer spacer remove key slide off, had one sheared half way through the key had to rotate it with pipe wrench to line back up with the keyway. Try large washer slide upto spacer then use a short pipe to hit it with a hammer lightly to jar it lose. Pry off with two putty knives for an even pull. Cam i can't tell what shape it is, suggest you get a good name brand.
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