Bw4406 repair or replace?
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Rockville, IN Temporarily
Bw4406 repair or replace?
So my 97 F-150 has a very noisy BW4406. What little fluid that was in it came out black and watery. I didn't bother to look inside with a flashlight through the fill or drain holes. I simply refilled it with 2 qts of mercon to get me around town here for a couple weeks while I debated this issue. I have a bearing/seal kit for this. But I'm certain I have much more serious issues and here where I am currently living I have been unable to find any 4406s used or even cores to rebuild. My question is this. Should I rebuild this unit? Or is there a direct bolt in upgrade? 4407 bolt in? 1356? I have searched here and other forums with no answers to my questions.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2019
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Have you tried this website? https://www.car-part.com
This will show where what you are looking for in the area you are in or worldwide if you want it to.
This will show where what you are looking for in the area you are in or worldwide if you want it to.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 401
Likes: 3
From: Rockville, IN Temporarily
Have you tried this website? https://www.car-part.com
This will show where what you are looking for in the area you are in or worldwide if you want it to.
This will show where what you are looking for in the area you are in or worldwide if you want it to.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 659
Likes: 25
Have you tried this website? https://www.car-part.com
This will show where what you are looking for in the area you are in or worldwide if you want it to.
This will show where what you are looking for in the area you are in or worldwide if you want it to.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,920
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T-cases are inherently easy to rebuild. About the only thing that renders it less than cost effective would be if your planetaries are shot (unlikely)
I'd open it up and see what's going on. For 1356's it was shift fork pads that would wear...and of course the stupid pump arm eating thru the inside of the case (effectively the exact same issue as GM pump rub years later).
Worst case you take it apart and abandon it based upon what you see (and, well, maybe your neighbors think you're a meth head 'cause you're disassembling stuff and not putting it back together). I'd be surprised if it's rebuildable.
I'd open it up and see what's going on. For 1356's it was shift fork pads that would wear...and of course the stupid pump arm eating thru the inside of the case (effectively the exact same issue as GM pump rub years later).
Worst case you take it apart and abandon it based upon what you see (and, well, maybe your neighbors think you're a meth head 'cause you're disassembling stuff and not putting it back together). I'd be surprised if it's rebuildable.
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Senior User
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From: Rockville, IN Temporarily
I have picked up a replacement. I will eventually rebuild this one but right now I don't have the time or parts. But here is a photo of the carnage.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Rockville, IN Temporarily
Ok new issue. I swapped in the new transfer case. Same part number etc. Prior to this the old one even in such bad condition would engage 4wd. 4x4 light on instrument cluster would light up as well. Now no light. Not certain 4wd high is engaging. 4 low feels like it engages. Would the switch on the transfer case be the sole issue? Or what else should I look for?
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
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Well on the 'case isn't just a switch but an entire shift motor.....so, yeah, since the problem changed or started with the new 'case and motor attached to it, I'd start with suspecting the motor. They're easy to swap
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Rockville, IN Temporarily
This is a manual shift transfer case. No motor. But it does have the switch. I'll swap it out tomorrow.
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