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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

HELP! Coolant sending unit leak

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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 12:29 PM
  #1  
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HELP! Coolant sending unit leak

Hi there I have a 1994 F150 5.0 I wanted to fix my gauge so bought a new coolant sending unit . Found it behind the distributor and the old one came out very easily. Popped the new one in and now I am getting a heavy coolant leak from the unit. It's been tighten down all the way, even tried taking it out and

putting some plumbers tape on but nothing is helping. Immediately when I pour coolant down the radiator it's starts seeping out from the unit. Any idea of what I should do here ???
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 01:57 PM
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Is it leaking around the threads or OUT of the sender?

Its hard to see, but how far into the manifold was it tightened? From the pic, it looks flush. If it is, then you have a bigger problem.

If all else fails, put the old one back in. Sounds like the sender is bad.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 02:10 PM
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It is flush Its coming from the threads I think I overtightened it. Took it out and tried putting the old one back in and I have the same problem. What should I do ?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 04:04 PM
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When you put the old one back in was it a tight fit or very loose. When you first put the new one in was it a tight fit? Did the old one have threads on the top where the connection goes?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 04:12 PM
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It was a good fit , the new one and old are identical and go in and turn like they should it just seems like theyre just not grabbing when they go all the way down? I have a feeling i tightened it past where it was supposed to sit. Not sure what the best thing to do at this point is. I don't really care about the gauge anymore just need this to be sealed because I can't put any coolant in as is. Not sure if I should try to retap this or try to silicone the unit in place and seal it that way? Figures I do hundreds of hours fixing this truck up and I screw up something as simple as screwing in a new sensor haha
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 04:21 PM
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Put some teflon tape or thread sealant on either one and take it down 3/4 of the way before it gets loose and see if it still leaks. If it leaks but a lot less you might get by with RTV. You need RTV that is for coolant it you go that route. Lets see if it leaks first.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 07:42 AM
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So while I was trying this out this morning I found out there's a much bigger problem , the damn thing has a hairline crack. How can I fix this ?

 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 08:27 AM
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I would think that crack runs to the threads. If so I don't know if welding is an option. Someone with metal experience needs to chime in. The good thing is the manifold is easily replaced and the 5.0 should be plentiful. I just replaced mine. Let's see if someone can tell you if.it can be fixed. If not I can tell you where I got mine. It was cleaned and machined and has a warranty. Of course a salvage yard is a good place to find one also but there are advantages to be recon one.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 08:58 AM
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Yea it runs to the threads, wasn't planning on doing this now but I want to do it done right so I think the best thing is to just take it out and replace it. Where did you get yours ? I've seen a lot of 5.8s online but haven't seen too many 5.0. I can definitely find something in the salvage but a recon would be great if it's not to pricey .
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 09:14 AM
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I got mine from Bishop Engine in Dallas. 18008435068. It was 200.00 plus tx tax and free shipping. The carton it came in was first class. They paint them black with a heat resistant paint. If you are planning to paint yours, I would tell them to forgo the paint. They have a Facebook site and are on Ebay with a 99.1% rating. Good luck. Sandy
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 09:32 AM
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Awesome , thank you so much for all the help ! Last question , is there anything else worth replacing or changing while I have all of this taken part ?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 09:42 AM
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A 5.0 truck lower at a u-pull salvage yard should be no more than $25-35, $50 max.

The actual job of pulling one in a yard is getting idea of what you face in doing repair.

The front & sometimes end manifold to head bolts next to the coolant passages are usually nightmares & break off in the head.

You need to prepare for this & count yourself in the "buy a lottery ticket" lucky if you don't break one.

Oh, & the one closest to that sending unit is usually the worst.

& Welcome to FTE, good luck.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by kilmartinco
Awesome , thank you so much for all the help ! Last question , is there anything else worth replacing or changing while I have all of this taken part ?
You will need a torque wrench. Bolt tightening in sequence is critical. Gasket set. I had to get fuel line removal tools. Thermostat/water housing rtv. New thermostat and gasket 195 degree if you want. Click my name in the forum and look at my recent post about replies to select manifold sealant and not using the rubber end gaskets. Clean manifold bolts and I installed mine dry. You will need to use the removable parts from your manifold.
 
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