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I was wondering who might be the go to for a new radiator. I have other work being done and figured that while I’m doing that I can swap the old radiator out. It appears to have a cooler fastened to it. I don’t believe I need that if I get a decent one. This one is in pretty bad shape and looks rusted with green deposits.
What size and type would you recommend? It’s a 65 F100 352 motor.
I have talked to a couple people. I’m getting a wide range of prices so they threw me off. One guy said $385 another said just go to summit or jegs and be done with it. Since I am having the engine rebuilt I figured I’d swap the radiator while it’s out.
I have talked to a couple people. I’m getting a wide range of prices so they threw me off. One guy said $385 another said just go to summit or jegs and be done with it. Since I am having the engine rebuilt I figured I’d swap the radiator while it’s out.
Summit nor Jegs is likely to have a radiator that's a direct replacement for your original. Radiator shops used to recore your radiator, reusing the original tanks. This may be a lost art today with our "throw away" society. That may be why you got the advice you got.
I am about 90% done with an engine rebuild, but I am running into an issue with the cooling and distributor timing. The engine never had a fan shroud and I was swapping the fan for a Flex A Lite. Am I off here or do I need an electric fan or shroud? It seems to be running a bit hot in traffic and a guy I know recommended an electric setup and told me to get rid of the mechanical fan but I told him it never needed that before.
The timing is off and at this point after doing the rebuild I was thinking of just getting a new distributor altogether. What should I get?
Its a 65, 352 Engine, running an Edelbrock 4B Carb. If i can order some parts this weekend and be done with it that would be great.
Having a shroud around the fan is always better than not having one. Once you have a shroud, get the biggest fan that will clear it. That means having at least 1/2" of clearance between the tip of the blade and the shroud. Then placing it within an inch of the radiator.
I had a similar heating problem with my 302 in stop and go traffic; the temp gauge would get really close to the high end of the scale while stopped, and go down when moving again. I ended up getting the proper shroud for the radiator and a flex fan with 7 blades, and a properly sized spacer that put the fan into the shroud. After that, it never again had a heating problem in stop/go traffic, even during the hottest of summer afternoons.
If the ignition timing is too retarded, that can cause the engine to run hot as well. You want as much timing as possible without knocking under load, or lugging your starter while trying to start a hot engine.
The FE engine has a ton of options for a high performance distributor. If you need to replace yours, I'm sure someone else can make a recommendation.
Should we put this with your radiator thread in the FE forum? This is a general forum and you have FE specific issues.
Serving suggestion.....
That will work. Sorry for multi questions. I have to admit I was a little disappointed with my outcome today but we will get it done!
The Cold Case radiator is in. Now its just these issues I need to address. Im screwing something up. If anyone has a recommendation on a shroud and distributor I will order tonight! Its Thanksgiving soon and I can work on it.
My FE runs cool. I have heard of others using a higher temperature thermostat just to get heat into the cab. Nail the timing first, and then see how it goes.
So everything is up and running and I drove it all over the street and went down the freeway.
then I got stuck in traffic for awhile and when I was driving the temp gauge went from say 1/4 to halfway.
When I got home and shut it off. It was smoking a bit and the overflow tank someone crafted had about a quarter inch of antifreeze in it. Also the bottom radiator hose leaked on my floor until it “cooled off”.
I popped the radiator cap and it looked about an inch empty.
I just got a shroud from summit so we will see if it works out. ( it didn’t line up )
I’ll post some pictures in a minute. It’s the aluminum cold case radiator and according to the website it says run 50/50 green in it.
Any suggestions? I don’t want to mess up a rebuilt engine.
I also have a problem with the fuel sender or wiring for fuel. It’s not reading.
This fitting I believe is the culprit that leaks antifreeze
Verify temp with a thermometer as dash gauges can be misleading. Double check timing...should be 6-11 initial and 35-39ish total. Vacuum advance (if in use) will add another 12-15ish. Also check crank pulley diameter to fan pulley diameter ratio...should be 1:1 or greater. Speaking of pulleys, do you have a new damper pulley? Always nice to put on a new one for a rebuild. They do rot out over time.
If it still tends to run hot it may just need some break in time. I got a reman 390 from Jasper that ran scalding hot for the first few hundred miles. My next engine was built by an FE guy...torque plate and line honed, etc. Never ran hot even though it displaces noticeably more than a 390. I have a factory type radiator from NAPA for a '65 and shroud from I think a '68, btw. Adding a shroud will help; just make sure the fan is spaced about halfway into the shroud.
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