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There is an old saying, "you have to pay to play" If you want to compete with today's vehicles on the road, you need to invest in equipment used on todays vehicles. Namely an overdrive. Once you have the go power, then you need the whoa power to stop. You'll probably want disc brakes too.
I agree. Speed is money, how fast do you want to go? Is something I often ask my customers. well, I want to get my unibody opn ther road too, so no $300 trans upgrades for the 65. As for the brakes, I have recently replaced the master with a dual pot and replaced all the hard lines, soft lines, and wheel cylonders. Waiting for my genuine asbestos relined shoes to come back and will replace the hardware with the shoes, and the parts truck I had, had 4 new drums. I'll stick with those for a minute.
Probably just end up tossing the 3.25-1 pumpkin I have in it and be happy. How she looks currently
I run a '66 with a 240 and three speed, 3:50-1 rear, and she'll run all day at 80-85 (and I have run her 250 miles that way, freeway all the way).
No idea what she's tach-ing, though I finally found a 2" tach I'll need wire in.
Drums, with all new linings (not OEM, actualy New Stuff) will prove to be all she'll need, if my own experience with 60's Fords is any clue.
Though there are those who'll tell you you've a death wish and you're the vilest sort ever to put key in ignition...
I run a '66 with a 240 and three speed, 3:50-1 rear, and she'll run all day at 80-85 (and I have run her 250 miles that way, freeway all the way).
No idea what she's tach-ing, though I finally found a 2" tach I'll need wire in.
Drums, with all new linings (not OEM, actualy New Stuff) will prove to be all she'll need, if my own experience with 60's Fords is any clue.
Though there are those who'll tell you you've a death wish and you're the vilest sort ever to put key in ignition...
Yup, I'd say that you're on the right track.
Oh, I have no problem running those speeds and more. It's just that when I get on the freeway and get to the top end of 3rd gear, I find myself reaching for the shifter to grab another gear and it ain't there.
I went from 3.73 to 3.00 with the 3.03 trans and a 300 six. Paid $40 for the 3.00 diff off of FB. It was the best change I made. Wouldn’t want to pull my 19ft boat out of the water at a steep ramp but for everything else I do it work perfect.
I went from 3.73 to 3.00 with the 3.03 trans and a 300 six. Paid $40 for the 3.00 diff off of FB. It was the best change I made. Wouldn’t want to pull my 19ft boat out of the water at a steep ramp but for everything else I do it work perfect.
Thats good to know. I don't really have anything to tow except disabled cars around the shop, and I'm sure my 352 has at least as much grunt as the 300.
Guess it's time to pull that pumpkin and count teeth, see what I really have for a spare, and the condition I suppose.
FWIW here are some real MPG numbers with my Gear Vendors. I know my drivetrain is different than yours but again, FWIW.
My '65 300ci L6 stock not rebuilt 107K miles, T18 4 speed, 3.50:1 rear, with Gear Vendors.
On recent trip from Nor-Cal down the to Atascadero, lightly loaded, all highway going 65-70 mph, 17 MPG.
Don't know rpm, yet to install tach.
Never made that same trip pre-GV but would estimate it would have been 13ish MPG+-.
I get 12-13 MPG with the truck packed HEAVY pulling the '62 Shasta (2,500 lbs) in the 55-60 mph range going up I5 to Lake Shasta. Of course, as my Dad used to say, that's going North which is uphill going South is downhill so you get better MPG Although I always wondered if it's not really going downhill until you get South of the equator?
I'm still not sure that levels really work since the would is not flat???
There is a formula to calculate rpm with the known tire diameter and axle ratio, however there is the gradeability factor people need to take into account. This is where the horsepower and torque of engine at reasonable rpm and weight of the vehicle and terrain ( flat land, hills, steep mountains) factors into your final calculations.
There is a formula to calculate rpm with the known tire diameter and axle ratio, however there is the gradeability factor people need to take into account. This is where the horsepower and torque of engine at reasonable rpm and weight of the vehicle and terrain ( flat land, hills, steep mountains) factors into your final calculations.
With a manual transmission, direct drive, your rpm should be locked into wheel speed unless the clutch is slipping. For example, I have an older BMW with a manual five speed. I have been driving it for 16 years or so and can say without a doubt that when I am in 3rd gear, uphill, down, flat ground, right at 82 mph the computer will cut fuel as a rev limiter function.
Now, on the truck, tire wear between new 31's and worn out ones the diameter will change significantly due to the thickness of the tread, and how slick I will drive on them.
Dan
Well turns out that my foot forced my hand. Broke the spider gears in my 3.50 diff and had to pull my spare, which according to the warranty plate was supposed to be a 3.25-1. Well unless they changed math someone swapped a 3.70 in there. So the truck is on the road, but heading the wrong direction as far as the gearing goes.
I have my friend at the truck yard looking for a used TKO 500 or 600 as I would have to sell a project to buy a new one. Or I suppose I could do it the American way and get myself further in debt...
Ok. The Tremec is out of reach financially. I'm over the 3ontree. Got a used T18 from my dismantler buddy for free so he wouldn't have to deal with my 3.03 transmission problems any more. Just got it in, everything fit fine. Used my original crossmember, mount, clutch, bell housing, speedo cable. I need a driveshaft before I can drive it and my high floor pan is in the mail. I guess I'm looking for a 3.00-1 rearend to get my freeway rpm's down, which was the original point of this saga.
I’m about to change the Spicer 60 in my truck from stock 4:10, to something more freeway-friendly, in the range of 3.50 to 3.73, not sure exactly what is availble.
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@ibuzzard Did you get this swap done? I'm curious about how it drives before and after. I have 4.10 gears, 4spd T-18, Dana 24 xfer case, and 35" tires. On regular street driving, I start in 2nd. 1st is granny. I'm wondering if 3.73 would allow a low-enough 1st for occasional towing, but also be high enough to actually use on the street. I'll do some math as I continue to consider it, but wondering about your experience - Thanks