My wife has a 1999 Ranger. Her exhaust broke off at the muffler. Is there a recommended exhaust kit for these trucks? I drive a 7.3 so the Ranger is a bit foreign to me....

 

Nothing wrong with the stainless OEM exhaust. Which engine does the Ranger have??? On the 99 models we had a choice of 4.0L & 3.0L V6 pushrod engines & a 2.5L OHC 4banger!!!

 

It has the 3.0. Thats what i needed to know. When it fell apart a few years ago they put aluminized on it and it rotted back apart.

 

for your consideration, effectively the same truck on the underside.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tem-today.html

 

Thank you. She wants it to sound different but not like a ricer. So what I gather is all the 3.0 Rangers are not the fastest creatures? I learned I have to pay more attention to how far away oncoming traffic is if I leave a stop sign, 7.3s are slow but it seems like my wife's truck won't get out of its own way.

 

in the past on this forum the 3.0L has been affectionately referred to as the 3-Slow. I drove one during my 99 test drives & didn't think it was slow, but it didn't have a lot of go power on a grade & is why I opted for the 4.0L, as I was planning on towing in the mountains & needed the additional torque of the 4.0L.

 

Thank you. I just didn't know if her truck had an issue that needed to be addressed. It just lacks get up and go.

 

Lots of unknowns, but If its behind on scheduled maintenance it may have some issues like, spark plugs, wires, fuel, or air filters that need to be replaced, or maybe a contaminated MAF, or O2 sensors, or over sized wheels or tires which can affect differential gearing, all of which can affect get up & go. Also scan the ECM for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, along with any mods on the truck, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.

 

I might have to look at her filters. I have ran test off my laptop on it and it seemed to do well. Maybe a bad O2 sensor threw some codes but that was it. She keeps most of her receipts for work she had done to it so maybe ill see when the last time plugs were done was.

 

If the air filter is a cleanable oiled cotton gauze type, or other so called " performance" type that's supposed to have less restrictive air flow, it can let contaminates through & also if over oiled it can contaminate the MAF sensor & cause it to be behind in sensing air flow changes, so that can cause fuel trim corruption when we go at throttle up. So also keep a dirty MAF sensor in mind while trouble shooting. The OEM air filter is recommended,
EDIT:
I'm still using the OEM air & fuel filters & OEM Fine Wire design plugs & OEM plug wires on my 94 Taurus 3.8L & 99 Ranger 4.0L at the recommended Scheduled Maintenance intervals.
The Ranger plugs & wires are designed for our "Waste Spark" ignition system, that works its components Twice as hard (as the old distributor ignition systems, as it fires the plugs on Every rotation of the crank shaft, so the Ranger plugs, wires & coil pack need to be able to stand up to that Double work load & hold up) & so far the newer design fine wire plugs & wires have proven to be of Good quality for me & are recommended.

 

Thank you. I will check that for sure.

 

Whats the average lifespan of a 3.0 or 4.0 engine in these? My brother is looking at a 4.0 with 200k on it.

 

Many unknowns, like which 4.0L, pushrod, or ohc, auto or manual tranny, 4x2 or 4x4, where & how was it used & maintained, how old is it, for starters???

 

Its a 2006. 4x4 auto trans. Seems to have been well taken care of other than the interior is a little dirty. We go to look at it in person tomorrow and I will be bringing my laptop with Autoenginuity along to at least pull codes. I bought my 7.3 with 238,000 on the clock so miles don't necessarily scare me but I like to know how it was treated. But I don't know much on longevity of the smaller gas engines. My wifes 3.0 has almost 200,000 on it but I see a lot of the older Rangers still roaming around.

 

Ok, the 2006 4.0L will be the chain driven OHC engine, so lots of 3rd time around scheduled maintenance is due. Like engine timing chain tensioners, O2 sensors, plugs, wires, PCV valve, serp belt, radiator hoses, coolant, water pump. tranny fluid pump out & filter change, 4X4 fluid change, differential fluid change, power steering fluid change, brake fluid change, brake pads, shoes, rotors & drums.
Make sure the 4X4 works, as most folks don't use it enough, like at least once a month, to exercise its workings & keep the lube spread around so it'll go into gear. Shocks & exhaust. Check the engine dipstick & under the oil fill cap for signs of sludge, gum, or varnish, as that'll tattle on how often the oil was changed & what service grade oil was likely used. If it has 200K on it, looks clean on the dipstick, under the fill cap & in the oil fill hole as far as you can see with a flashlight & under hood & the chassis underneath, its probably been looked after some, to have gotten to 238K miles in MI

I see your in MI, so that's in the rust belt & a vehicle with that many miles on it there, should be looked at on a lift to have its frame, springs & mounts & exhaust looked at closely as you know. If your going way south, out of salted road country, it won't likely be as much of a risk underneath, but still should be put on a lift for inspection & include the steering also. If the 4.0L OHC timing chains & tensioners need replacing, the engine needs to come out, so if you can't do that, labor is gonna make it more expensive to do, so keep that in mind if you decide to make an offer.
A bunch of thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.