Parasitic Draw Numbers?
Following advice to connect my meter as is usual and walk away for upwards of 40+ minutes. I've done that and see these readings, please check my DVM configuration making sure I have that set right:
A closer view of the range selector:
If I move the test leads to the dedicated Milliamp port I get no readings at all, 0.000 and same with Microamps.
So is my draw within acceptable limits or should I be looking for another source of a potential key-off draw? To my knowledge apart from the vehicle's keep alive memories there are no additional devices other than a Sony stereo and an alarm system that is armed whenever the vehicle isn't being driven. Both of those have keep alive memories but neither have ever created a problem when install in my other E-Series.
Thanks in advance for any insight or ideas!
Purchased the battery about a year ago CCA 850 @ 0* F, 1050 @ 32* F. When I purchased the new battery it tested at 1050 CCA but dropped all the way to just over 250 CCA even though I was driving the van every 3 days or so. When I'm driving quite often or long distances the CCA will climb back up to 600-700 but never goes above that reading. My alternator seems to be be working well, I get 14.3 volts with all accessories and A/C on so I don't think I'm having a problem there.
On my '03 E250 same engine and exact same battery but a few years older it will hold a charge of about 600 CCA even when sitting without being started or driven for 3-4 weeks at a time. Neither van's battery terminals show any signs of corrosion build up so I'm fairly convinced the battery is receiving enough current from the alternator to recharge.
One time I had the '05 out all day running a portable cooler, drove probably 100 miles to and from a job that day. Next morning I ran the cooler again for 2+ hours without the engine running and I had to jump the van.
There is no noticeable issue or loss of electrical performance but this battery thing puzzles me. This 2005 being a CAN-BUS equiped vehicle I can't help wondering if something in that system could be the cause of this? My PDL's are having issues but that's 99.999% due factory wiring harness issues---two of the four work perfectly, the remaining two will stop working until the outdoor temperatures drop in the middle 30's F over night; their operation totally tied to the temperatures.
Should I have the alternator tested by a trusted local rebuilder?
So what is causing your draw? First, open the doors, but then trip the latches so the BCM thinks they're all closed. Wait 40 minutes or so with the key OFF. Set your DVOM to the low DC volts scale, Read the (very small) voltage drop across each individual fuse in your fuse panel(s). Look for the ones with a non-zero reading. Here's a link
https://powerprobe.squarespace.com/f...ge-drop-charts
to some handy charts that will help you convert your voltage reading to amperage. Note that the results depend on the rating of the fuse being read, so a voltage of 0.123 volts on a 40 amp fuse means a lot more draw than 0.321 volts across a 5 amp fuse.
Good luck
I'll double check my DMM internal fuse---could very well be open as suggested.
Thanks Sam Bell !












