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Personally, I've had 2 FE's, a 289, a handful of Triumph TR7 engines and personally know a few people that have engines running 20+ years later from the machinist that did them all. He never used a torque plate. Did all his own boring in-house. He was a genius, though, if that matters
One of those engines is a high performance 383 Chevy small block build he did for a friend of mine for a '68 Firebird. Full roller. He's gone drag racing with it, and generally just putters around the street now, but he does beat the crap out of it. It's in the 500+HP range.
I'm not saying don't do it, but I'm kinda on the fence about whether it's necessary or not.
On edit: My vote of "No - factory build" means not necessary for a stock rebuild, but if you're going big numbers, definitely.
I won't say it's necessary 100% of the time but if I'm putting the effort into pulling an engine and re-installing it along with spending money on what ever parts needed and time to assemble then I'm having it torque plate honed. How much does it add to the total cost?
Years ago I got an engine from a large engine rebuilder who did not mention torque plate honing in their procedure. It ran extra hot at idle for the first 500 miles...I guess until it rounded the rough edges. My current engine was torque plate honed and has never run hot.
The problem is finding a shop that owns a torque plate for a FE. They have them for SBF and all the GM engines but I had to make my own plate 25 years ago! End result I had a .002- 006 change in vertical taper without the plate. With the plate and the block warmed ( A trick I learned from a respected machinist) I was able to control the taper down to .0015 - .0019. This worked really well for me as I was running the then new coated skirts.
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