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Does anyone know of a reputable engine builder (FE) within a day's drive of Sturgis SD?
It looks like it would be about 16 hours one way but these guys know FEs and do really nice work. Almost all Sunnen equipment for the heavy stuff. They do still send out crankshafts to have them turned and polished if needed, but they do everything else in-house that I know of.
But, dang that would be a long drive. I'm sure there are some in Spokane and likely Boise Idaho. Here's two names that have been around a long time in Spokane.
Yes, TA455HO, that's too far. We have a machine shop here, but I haven't been able to find any recommendations for them. Honestly I don't know if I have to worry about it or not. In the book How to Rebuild Big Block Ford Engines, author Charles Morris has some scary things to say about taking your engine to just any machine shop or rebuilder. I'm not looking for a race engine, maybe a little more than stock. The reason I'm asking about this is there are silver slivers in the oil pan.
If you want to keep your engine because it is original to your truck. I would think your local shop would do just fine for a stock rebuild as long as you are just doing mild performance up grades. There isn't anything special about machining on an FE other than it weighs a ton.
If you take it to a specialty rebuilder your wait to get it back could be many many months. You should just go to your local shop and talk to them. Ask them for a price list for their services and the lead time to get it back. That way you will know what the worst case scenario might be so you can make a plan. At the very least you will need to bore the block, turn the crank and re-bush the rods. Plus what ever head work it needs.
Most important thing I'd ask your local guy is if they have a torque plate for FE. If not, don't use them. Boring or even honing with a torque plate is vital on a FE due to core shifting. If you don't have Barry Rabotnik's books on the FE, get them. He's by far the authority on FE.
Using torque plates while honing the cylinders is a good thing. The theory being when the heads are torqued it distorts the cylinder wall a little and the cylinders will be more concentric. But in reality the factory never used torque plates and they produced millions of engines. The machine shops do charge extra for that service. I've had engines done with and without and honestly I have never seen any difference between the two except it cost more. Also the head bolt bosses in an FE block are no where near the cylinder wall.
All true points. Just a factory freshen? Don't bother with them. Mild or hot performance? Don't go without. It's purpose is to "square up" the block during machining which in turn puts the rotating mass in a position to NOT put any odd angles (stress) on the bearings. Don't have the budget for any additional cost, no biggie I suppose.
Anyhoo, asking that innocuous question of your machinist will give you the idea if they've dealt with FE builds before or not. That's my point plain and simple.
It looks like it would be about 16 hours one way but these guys know FEs and do really nice work. Almost all Sunnen equipment for the heavy stuff. They do still send out crankshafts to have them turned and polished if needed, but they do everything else in-house that I know of.
But, dang that would be a long drive. I'm sure there are some in Spokane and likely Boise Idaho. Here's two names that have been around a long time in Spokane.
Geetoe, I was in the same spot last year with my 352. My first thought was to get the block rebuilt, but I couldn’t find a machine shop that didn’t want big bucks for the rebuild. After a recommendation from a local speed shop I started looking into a new crate motor as an alternative. Ended up going with S&J Engines in Washington. Bought a 390 with some upgrades and had it shipped to Jersey. S&J was easy to work with and had the motor to me in less then a month. Price was very reasonable! To recoup some of my costs I sold my 352 locally.
I purchased new motor mounts just to replace the old, but I believe the 352 and the 390 bolt up the same. I would give them a call and discuss exactly what you are looking for. I went with an upgraded cam which wasn’t on their site but was offered after I explained what I was looking for.