Well new development!
I wouldn’t say for the better.

thought I would be clever and try to just hot wire the safety switch by bridging with wires to each color pair.

well, went to try and start it. Put my foot on the brake, key in “run” position.
voila, touching the brakes started it. No idea how or why other than I royally screwed up.

anywho, my battery voltage is back all OVER the place. Drained the battery too, im assuming anyway because I have ZERO power at all.

if I put it under any load like headlights or AC or window motors, engine would rev up and you could hear a squeal.


Any idea what I did besides cross the wrong wire?

ill do a damage assessment later, i can imagine I popped a fuse or two but maybe not. I don’t know.

 

Oh jeeze. By the way, what is that extra set of wires & relay off the battery?

Can you put any wiring hacks back to original?

 

I did put everything back to normal after that.

the extra set off the battery is for the light bar on the brush guard. Thats still GTG as long as the battery has a charge. Its wired on a switch on the dash.

Unless you think there is a different issue at hand, im going to order a new clutch safety switch and a new pigtail for it that ill solder in.

I don’t know what else to do besides give a friend a call and have him do it. At work we contract him out to do most of the major electrical and mechanical work.

 

If you put your foot on the brake & the engine cranks, then that hack is putting 12 volts to that terminal on the starter relay.

If it's been put back more/less the way it should be, You still need to do the test described in #45.

 

gotcha. If I have time tomorrow ill hook my jumpbox up to it and test it.

ill have to get the battery charged again too, ill take it with me monday to work and bring home more tools. My test light will be a huge help over my voltmeter.

 

Just ran the test, somehow had time.
no power, most I got was around 5mV.

so.... im assuming the safety switch has gone bad. If thats the case, then would replacing it be the solution or is there something else to it?

ive heard they can be adjusted?

 

I don't have any wiring diagrams for a 93, so I can't say for sure, but yes, I'd say a new switch would be in order.

I'll look & see what I can find. Don't know where to begin to tell you where to look/test.

 

Much appreciated.

I have the haynes repair manual and somewhere I have the factory repair CD.
I consulted the haynes manual and the diagram that I think shows it, doesn’t show wire color or anything to actually help.

 

You went into the brake switch switch or just the clutch safety switch or both?

 

Just the clutch switch.

I would assume, that because I have cruise control, there are brake wires running to that switch but I could be horribly mistaken.

i have 6 wires to the CSS, I would have to look and see what color wires attach to the brakes.

 

waiting on parts, OE parts too. Ill take it to work over the weekend where I have all save for emergency tools at, plus a guru who offered to diagnose it directly if a CSS doesn’t fix this.

So maybe im losing it, but when I turn my key on, the check engine light stays on. Does that seem off? I really don’t remember it always being on, I remember it coming on briefly then going off but...

maybe I need to pull codes, I can’t imagine OBD1 is advanced enough to detect a safety switch failure like that but maybe it is.

 

I have gone through many similar issues.
The other day when I tried to start truck, and got a no start, I relaxed the key a bit and she started fine.
I had already replaced ignition switch, the white one, key switch, clutch safety interrupt switch, put in a jumper from auto trans to bypass clutch safety switch,and replaced negative cable.

So see my second line.

 

Today was incredibly productive

Had a good friend and master tech at my disposal to bring some experience to the table I didn’t have. Plus wiring diagrams that aren’t in the factory service manual or haynes manual.

through some testing with a power probe (makes noise, hooks to battery so you can push power too) I found that, the CSS is working, at least the new motorcraft one is.
i was able to verify all wires and switches are GTG except......

the ignition switch, a brand new one is bad
i was able to push power as if the circuit was complete there and start it. And with the key operating it correctly well....

 

Good deal. Find Motorcraft if you can.

 

If I have time tomorrow ill have our parts guy call ford and see.
I don’t see it listed on rockauto or the normal parts stores near me. Napa might.

im the meantime, aftermarket round two!