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The cab floor on my extended cab is shot, it's completely gone on the drivers side towards back of the cab.
Where would be a good place to take this to have it replaced/fixed. I was thinking body shop obviously but since there isn't any replacement
panels for that back section of the extended cabs it will need fabbed.
So that makes me think maybe I should take it to a welding fab shop instead?
I don't have time or the equipment to do this myself and not a welder either so ..
Which place would you try first, just trying to save some phone time and not sound too stupid when I start calling...
I think ideally I'd like to just find a new cab but I haven't seen any worthy donators for sale for a while..
Can't even find a junk truck with a zf5 (locally)in it and I've been looking since last summer.
I don't think phone calls will cut it as they will want to see the truck and what is needed to do the kind of repair you want.
Before you take the truck to anyone pull as much of the insides apart so they can see the job at hand.
So if it has carpet or rubber matt pull it and a rear seat or shelf so they can see it.
What is the front floors, cab mounts front & rear, cab corners and rockers look like?
If they are doing the rear area it may not be much more to fix the other area being they are there and have the tools out.
Dave ----
I planned on just having it all replaced, because like you said, they are there already or as much as they need to.
Cab corner is solid on outside but appears rotted out on the inner side where the floor mates to it or I guess that would be part of the rocker?
I figure they want to see it first but I gotta call someone to set up a time so they can look at it. I'm just not sure if a body shop wants to get into fabbing that rear section.
Or will it cost more going to a body shop because they don't normally fabricate ('I'm guessing most don't I imagine they just replace panels and bondo)
No doubt a classic car shop could handle it but I don't think I'm ready for that kind of sticker shock..
I will be surprised if you find someone willing to do it. There is no money in rust repair, and there are too many warranty claims. Most shops now are newer car and truck insurance claim shops. The only ones that might even consider doing it would be a restoration shop, and like you said, they will not be cheap. You can easily have two times what the truck is worth in repairing the floor.
What are you looking for in repairing this truck? Something that is functional or a restoration where you can't tell it's been repaired? If most of the repair is not structural bracing and support, just floorboard repair, a piece of metal and some pop rivets will get you going. I bought repair panels for a truck I did, the ones you could buy, and the areas they did not sell I repaired with fiberglass cloth and resin you can get in the store.
I planned on just having it all replaced, because like you said, they are there already or as much as they need to.
Cab corner is solid on outside but appears rotted out on the inner side where the floor mates to it or I guess that would be part of the rocker?
I figure they want to see it first but I gotta call someone to set up a time so they can look at it. I'm just not sure if a body shop wants to get into fabbing that rear section.
Or will it cost more going to a body shop because they don't normally fabricate ('I'm guessing most don't I imagine they just replace panels and bondo)
No doubt a classic car shop could handle it but I don't think I'm ready for that kind of sticker shock..
To be quite honest it would be cheaper to buy a rust free cab and have it shipped or source a good cab on a cheap parts truck.
I will be surprised if you find someone willing to do it. There is no money in rust repair, and there are too many warranty claims. Most shops now are newer car and truck insurance claim shops. The only ones that might even consider doing it would be a restoration shop, and like you said, they will not be cheap. You can easily have two times what the truck is worth in repairing the floor.
What are you looking for in repairing this truck? Something that is functional or a restoration where you can't tell it's been repaired? If most of the repair is not structural bracing and support, just floorboard repair, a piece of metal and some pop rivets will get you going. I bought repair panels for a truck I did, the ones you could buy, and the areas they did not sell I repaired with fiberglass cloth and resin you can get in the store.
Probably structural issue going on here. A while back I posted about a noise the roof was making, I think it's due to the floor ,no support so the roof is flexing.
no restoration just make it better. If it was just a hole under the feet, I'd do just that, sheet metal and rivets but it looks to be a lot more than that.
I'll see about getting some pictures, maybe I'm overthinking this.
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
To be quite honest it would be cheaper to buy a rust free cab and have it shipped or source a good cab on a cheap parts truck.
I have been looking, I haven't looked at having one shipped in yet though.. I thought about the same.. at same time it seems solid enough to save.
You should have a brace supporting the cab on both front corners. You can get panels for that area, both the floor pan and the front supports.
At the rear you should have a large u shaped brace that goes from one side of the cab to the other, with the rubber supports underneath. The ends of this u-channel go all the way out to the cab corners. It's the ends that like to rust out, and I have not seen much of any repair panels for this area. Usually the support area with the rubber donuts rusts out right under the donut. You can't see it unless you take it loose and jack the rear of the cab up. The ends that like to rust out usually have the seat belt supports in there.
I found mine rusted under one of the donuts, this was making my drivers door rattle when I went down the road. I had to move the seatbelt anchor to a better area, and then fiberglassed the rest just to keep stuff behind the seat from falling out into the road. Not ideal, but it was cheaper than a new truck.
You should have a brace supporting the cab on both front corners. You can get panels for that area, both the floor pan and the front supports.
At the rear you should have a large u shaped brace that goes from one side of the cab to the other, with the rubber supports underneath. The ends of this u-channel go all the way out to the cab corners. It's the ends that like to rust out, and I have not seen much of any repair panels for this area. Usually the support area with the rubber donuts rusts out right under the donut. You can't see it unless you take it loose and jack the rear of the cab up. The ends that like to rust out usually have the seat belt supports in there.
I found mine rusted under one of the donuts, this was making my drivers door rattle when I went down the road. I had to move the seatbelt anchor to a better area, and then fiberglassed the rest just to keep stuff behind the seat from falling out into the road. Not ideal, but it was cheaper than a new truck.
This is the area you speak of?
Right side standard cab. The rocker has the seat belt bolting point.
As you can see I did have to make some plates to tie the rear cab body cross member to the new rocker.
The other part is the lower part of the rear door post that also gets tied into the rear cross member & rocker and then the cab corner put on over all that.
Now you said the rear floor across the cab floor & wall had rust.
I wonder if a regular cab floor area is the same as yours and if so if you could find a good one to graft onto your truck?
Dave ----
The below is a good illustration of how it looks. But in the picture you can see the floor is gone all around the u-channel, and they don't make that floor piece. And sometimes the lower part of the u-channel is gone. That is a bad area back there, the aftermarket needs to step up and make some repair pieces for that.
That piece with the large hole in it. Is that original, homemade, or aftermarket?
Yes Fuzzface, but mine is drivers side. I appreciate those pictures because I wasn't sure how bad it was until I see what it really should look like.
Passenger side hasn't gone that far.
I suppose the weird thing is, the outside looks solid, cab corner/rocker.. Couldn't tell from looking it's rotted under it. I couldn't tell how bad it was when I bought it, the carpet made it look like the floor.
GLR, thanks I'll look them up, I found a guy over in pa who sells west coast parts too on craigslist, I think I'll give him a call as well.
I'm off this evening from work, I'm going to try and just get a few pics still.
I thought it was a lot worst for some reason but climbing back under it and seeing the other pictures posted this looks kind of minor.
Maybe just weld some reinforcing metal in there? I'd still need to get someone to do that though.
It's bad enough. And it will be a custom job, no patch panels for that back there. Might as well get a hammer and knock all that loose and see how bad it really is.
The below is a good illustration of how it looks. But in the picture you can see the floor is gone all around the u-channel, and they don't make that floor piece. And sometimes the lower part of the u-channel is gone. That is a bad area back there, the aftermarket needs to step up and make some repair pieces for that.
That piece with the large hole in it. Is that original, homemade, or aftermarket?
That is a TabCo rocker. The curved part to the right is also a Tabco part and is the rear lower door post.
The cab corner covers that area and the 90* end of the rocker gets spot welded to the cab corner.
I lined everything up to make sure it would fit then pulled the cab corner so I could weld everything then welded the cab corner in place.
Sorry it took so long to post. I started this on my PC and something came up and I forgot about it.
Dave ----
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