Hello all!
Can anyone tell me what I'm missing when adjusting my recently re-built 1bbl Carter on a 78 ford 300 straight 6? It starts and runs fine when the choke is barely open (7/64" as recommended in the re-build kit). The problem is that when I step on the throttle, the choke springs COMPLETELY shut and the truck dies. There's no gap at all. The gap is only there when the adjustment screw for the throttle is sitting on the second step of the choke lever. The re-build kit says to put the screw on this step for setting the 7/64" gap on the choke. Even after the truck warms up, the choke still snaps back to completely shut when you press on the throttle and the adjustment screw is no longer on the step and keeping the choke open at the 7/64" setting. The choke is temperature controlled so there's a wound up spring that pushes a little lever to open/close the choke. When cold, it should be closed to the 7/64 gap right? I'm just lost and don't know what to adjust to get the choke to not shut all the way. I've done all the adjustments desribed in the re-build, but I'm still at a loss. I think I may have the auto choke spring thing wrong. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Moved to proper forum.

 

do you have the YF or the YFA carb? what truck?
the YFA carb has a choke pulldown that holds the choke open a little bit when the engine starts. I cant find the pulldown on the YF carb pic.
do you have a hot air choke or a choke thats also electric?

 

Sounds like it is just adjusted too tight. With it cold, fully open the throttle and let it go, it should completely close on it's own.
It should be closed, but not too tight. You should be able to open the choke flap without too much resistance.
Then when you start it, it should open just a bit, then continue opening as it heats.
If it is slamming shut, it is adjusted too tight.
Jimmy

 

I'm not sure if it's the YF or the YFA, but it's a heat only choke with a pulldown (I think). I've got the pulldown adjusted so the clearance of the choke valve is 7/64", but as soon as the throttle is opened, the choke springs shut, and eventually kills the motor. The only time the choke opens is if I push the throttle open all the way to the tab that bumps into the choke arm and force it open. Other than that, it's shut really tight. Should the mark on the cover that goes over the temp choke be acurate? It says to set the choke so this mark is at 1 rich, but that's why the choke is so tightly closed I think. Should I just turn that cover till it doesn't hold the choke closed so tightly? Does that spring ever go bad and not change when hot? I think that would defy physics, but at this point, I'm trying any excuse!

Thanks again for any suggestions!

 

Loosen it up (to the lean side ) and adjust as I suggested in the previous post. Don't worry about the setting on the second step for now. You have to get air to the engine to run before it will warm up enough to even kick down to the second step.
It should lightly slap shut when you open the throttle, not slam tight. Then it will open as the engine runs and you will be good to go.
Jimmy

 

Thanks for the pointers.
I thought I had it working fine last night. I loosened the climatic choke and it was starting and running fine. Then I let it warm up. . THE CHOKE CLOSES WHEN IT GETS HOT!! This baffled me, so I removed the choke climate spring housing and took it in to the bathroom. I held the hair dryer on it and watched which way it moved. It moves in the direction that closes the choke! What am I doing wrong????! There's no way I can see to reverse the spring. Unless I can pry it out of the plastic housing. Why would it be reversed in the first place? Unless some idiot that had it before me tried to rebuild it. I can't believe it. That's my problem! If I can get that spring out of the housing and just flip it over before putting it back in, I'm good to go! Cross your fingers for me.

Thanks again!

 

Yeah, you might be able to reverse the spring. It could just be the wrong cap.
Jimmy

 

Yep, that's exactly what I had to do. I never thought of it before because I didn't even mess with the spring. Desparation caused me to think of any possibility. Now it runs fine. I just gotta get a timing light and get it tuned in good. A new set of lifters should quiet the damn ticking too!

Thanks everyone! I drove it to work today with no problems.

 

Glad that we could help and that you are on the road again.
Jimmy