Hi Again Gang,
Changed to a new PCV valve + CEL stays lit? At least when the old valve was in, the CEL did cycle (On + Off). Any ideas, besides reinstalling old valve?
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90 Ranger 2.3L EFI 2wd Mazda < with many new parts!

 

Pull the codes, I have the procedure in the tech info post. This way you can find out what the problem is and if you need the pinpoint tests I can help you with that too.

 

Thank you for your reply and assistance Ken00. Will commence procedures. Will be going to Advanced Auto for the codes, don't have an analyzer of my own.
Let you know what transpires.


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90 Ranger 2.3L EFI 2wd Mazda

 

Good Day to you Ken00,
I really do appreciate and thank you for offering your most valuable assistance.

I must say that pulling these codes using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) method was exhilarating!

I own a VOM and a Haynes Repair Manual; which guided me through the testing procedures!

After performing the tests, I tried to make FTE’s Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) descriptions corroborate with my Haynes Manual.

It’s like deciphering 2 different languages!
I’m still scratching my head over these descriptions!


‘90 Ranger, 2.3L, EEC-IV, EFI, DIS, 2wd, Mazda 5 sp


Performed back-to-back tests, results below:

KOEO - Key Off ~ Engine Off >
1st time tested: code 22 - Map out of self-test range
2nd time tested: code 11 - System pass >AOK!

C - Continuous Memory > tested 2 times, both readings exactly the same: 32,41,66
Code 32 = EVP voltage below closed limit
Code 41 = No HEGO switch detected
Code 66 = MAF circuit below minimum voltage

R - Engine Running > tested 2 times, both readings exactly the same: 21,32,52
Code 21 = Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) out of self test range
Code 32 = EVP voltage below closed limit
Code 52 = PSPS circuit did not change states

And your verdict is?

I must definitely thank you again!

wolfen - Joe

PS My timing advance tested @ 30 degrees + based @ 10 degrees. I could'nt find this info on my VECI label ( maybe it's there and I'm not reading it right.)

 

I'd have to start with the 32 myself. The others are most likely from a cold engine and not "cycling the ps while testing. May want to erase them, warm up the engine and try again.

 

Thank you for your input stepman. I'm going to wait for Ken00's reply too before proceding. While I'm waiting what is "cycling the ps" mean and it's relevancy to this situation. (LEARN,LEARN,LEARN!)

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‘90 Ranger: 2.3L, EEC-IV, EFI, DIS, 2wd, Mazda 5sp

 

I don't have a problem with that. Ken may have different thoughts. There are certain things that are supposed to be done while performing the running test such as hitting the brakes to cycle the BOO switch, turning the steering 1/4 turn/then back to cycle the PS switch and pushing the OD button (if applicable) All of this to let the comp know that these swiches are working. This is something I get spoiled with having a scanner, it asks you to do it at the right time.

 

Hi again stepman. This Haynes book dosen't tell anything about what you have just discribed. These facts are relevant to this situation...DEFINATELY! The testing that i just performed is only the half of it...right?

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‘90 Ranger: 2.3L, EEC-IV, EFI, DIS, 2wd, Mazda 5sp

 

I believe that they are why you get those particular codes but, they can be disreguarded if the switches weren't "toggled". The reason for this part of the test is because these are "on-off" switches and the computer has no way to check them unless they are put in each position.

 

I would rerun the test but do agree with stepman. In the tech info post I have the Ford procedure for pulling the codes and that will give you all the details you need, its call pulling EEC-IV codes or something like that. Once you get the codes sorted out let us know, I have some of the pinpoint tests scanned already and will scan others for you.

 

OK you helpful group. Pulled codes after conversing w/ stepman and Ken00, these are the EEC-IV System Trouble Codes as per the Haynes Manual that I have here:
Second group of testing as per stepman:
Oh Yeah! Thank you tremendously too stepman!

Codes did change after following stepman’s advise:

KOEO - Key Off ~ Engine Off > tested 2 times, both readings exactly the same: 31
Code 31 = EVP circuit below minimum voltage

C - Continuous Memory > tested 2 times, both readings exactly the same: 15
Code 15 = EEC Processor Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed

R - Engine Running > tested 2 times, both readings exactly the same: 21,32
Code 21 = Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) out of self test range
Code 32 = EVP voltage below closed limit

OK now what ?

 

Okay, I'll take a stab at this.

Code 31 in KOEO would mean that the problem is present at the time of the test. What I've found on Fords is that the end of the EGR pintle that the sensor rides on gets worn, putting it out of range. The only way I have been able to solve that is to replace both. Maybe someone has an easy way to shoot that one.

Code 15 Continuous memory was due to removing power from PCM to clear the codes. ( not a problem)

Code 32 Engine running would be the same as the code 31 above.

Code 21 Engine running....Hmmm...How's your temp guage? Does it run at normal temp? Do you get any smoke out the tail? (black?) This one may take a little more t-shooting but I don't have a manual for a 91. Sorry.

 

Hi Ya stepman. Thanks again for sticking with me through this ordeal.
I have a funny feeling about #21 and the thermostat, possibly not being replaced since it came off the assembly line 13 years ago. I think the temp gauge is reading ok, but I am the new owner and don't know about all the little quirks it may have.
No black smoke at all, as a matter of fact, the emissions smell kind of sweet (not gag making).
As for #31 the EEGR valve, there is a hose going to it and no matter if the engine is cold or hot, I can't feel any vacuum going to it, to actuate the diaphram which has an electrical quick- disconnect on the top of it.
As for being sorry for not having a manual...NO NEED! YOU'VE BEEN A TREMENDOUS HELP!

To summarize: What I need is a new EEGR valve + Thermostat and rerun the test. What you think? Sound about right? Have any other input?
______________________________________________
‘90 Ranger: 2.3L, EEC-IV, EFI, DIS, 2wd, Mazda 5sp

 

Let me try this again. I had just typed a nice long reply and my comp locked up on me. Don't know if it's the site or my comp, been getting slow to where I have to keep waitng for the curser to catch up. Now, if I could just remember what I was saying...

I was thinking that the 21 could be the sender. Maybe someone knows how to check that.

As for the 31/32, I would change the EGR valve and see what happens. Look inside when you pull the sensor off and see if the little nipple thingy is worn. I believe that the sensor should have a LITTLE tension on it when put together. If the valve don't fix the code, then you probably need a sensor too.

 

Make sure you test the temp sendor that has two wires, the single wire one is for the gauge.

'F K ohms
140 7.60
122 10.97
104 16.15
86 24.27
68 37.30
50 58.75