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Hi gang - finally located a cab worth restoring in Tennessee and I need to transport it to Georgia in my little 8X10 trailer. The little old lady selling it for her son who is in prison cannot assist and nobody will be around to help - there is only little wine-maker I.
The '75 cab is presently sitting on four jacks:
Here is what I "plan" to do - do you think it would work? (The dollies I will rent from Uhaul....)
1) Jack up one side of cab off of jacks and slide 6X6 under with dollies on 6X6 between the 6X6 and the cab
2) Jack up other side of cab and slide 6X6 under the cab with dollies on 6X6 between the 6X6 and the cab
3) Back trailer up to 6X6's
4) Jack ends of 6X6's next to trailer up far enough to back trailer under - about a foot
5) Let the 6X6's back down onto the trailer
6) slide cab forward onto trailer and secure for trip
You can build a dolly out of 2x4's and 4 casters. Thats what I did and it works like a champ. The 4 vertical posts need to be short in the front and about 4" taller in the back. The base is 60"x45" this puts the resting points where the body mount pannel and the floorboard meet, and the just outside the body mount holes in the back. total cost was about $25.
Strap it down to the dolly with some ratchet tiedowns and push it up the ramp.
You know anyone with free standing camper jacks, or is that the jacks you are refering to. Anyways, just use camper jacks and a couple of long boards. Just triangulate the jacks so that the will make a bridge to drive under with the trailer. If you plan on doing stuff like this more than once I recommend buying some or having easy access to some. They are so slick for raising body parts. BTW 6x6's is overkill, 4x4's or 2x6's are more than enough. Good luck.
I'm siding with mudmnky here. I made a box out of 2x6's and put some casters on it to roll mine in and out of the garage at will. The cabs aren't really THAT heavy and it works great. I've got like 4 or 5' casters but you could go even bigger I guess to make it roll easier over rough terrain.
I was thinking of just regular jacks, but will look into the camper jacks.....then I can just run around to all 4 sides (one at a time) and lower the beast into the trailer.
Thanks for the ideas...I'll take 4-6 pressure treated 4X4's with me
Cool stepman ~ thanks for the updates. I like your F250 1953 project pix - I was born the same year - I wonder if I might have seen one of those out my crib in Fort Wayne, when I was born...
If you take the doors off you can use a bit of chain and an engine hoist to pick the cab from inside. Run the chain to hinge bolts and the door lock bolts. Put the hoist in thru the door opening, pump up the hoist and roll it away!
..this is sounding better.....I have a hoist I can drag up to the site with me and the doors are on the cab. It sounds like I would have to take the doors OFF, right?........can you run that by me again as to where the chain would go?.....It sounds like the chains will be criss-crossing on the inside of the cab and I pick it up at the "X-point"?....
You got it correct. Make an X, use the lowest hinge bolt hole and the door striker bolt hole. Just pop your own bolts thru the chain and into the body.
i just brought a 76 cab back for my75 highboy. this trip was very interesting. i had one person to help me get the cab into the bed of my sonoma and drove it back on my own through quite a few country roads. the way that these cabs are built, they are very front heavy. you would have no problem tilting the cab forward onto its cab mounts so that the rear end is up in the air. put the trailer underneath it as far as you can, tilt the trailer flat, and just line up the cab how you want. working one side at a time, theyre not hard to slide.
on the same note as Torque 1st. i have removed many cabs from their frame's. i bolt a chain to the seat bolt holes on the floor. i also cross the chain to make an X. then i put a bolt at the X in the chain so it doesn't slip. i make sure to take all the slack out of the chain and use grade 8 bolts. using the seat bolt hole's will give you more lift than if you use the door striker bolts. but if you are by yourself you might want to use the lower door hinge bolt hole's and the two back bolt seat hole's at the back of the cab. this will able you to balance the cab better. and when you put the cab on the trailer you don't have to put anything under the cab to rest it on. it will sit level on it's own. just strap it down good. i use the chain's with the strap's to hold it. in case of a panic stop. good luck
I had to take the bed off my truck and had no help. I used your original idea, but used hay bales and fence posts. I stacked bales at all 4 corners of the bed, jacked it up, slid the posts under, and drove away. Not the most sturdy setup, but it worked.
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