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Code 334

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Old Sep 7, 2020 | 12:12 PM
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Code 334

94 F250, 7.5, Auto
Using the jumper wire method, I consistently get a code 334. "EGR valve position sensor voltage above closed limit."
What does this mean, and how do I fix it. Have already replaced the egr, and evp on top of egr.
Any help please? Kinda running out of patience!
 
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Old Sep 7, 2020 | 12:32 PM
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Well, I'm an idiot. I hooked the vacuum lines to the wrong tab/tad solenoids. Running now. I'll just leave this post if it helps. And give you all a chance to laugh at me!
 
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Old Sep 7, 2020 | 05:22 PM
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self flaming, has to be allowed, I can screw things up with best of'em, and do it often enuff
 
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Old Sep 7, 2020 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
self flaming, has to be allowed, I can screw things up with best of'em, and do it often enuff
yeah torq'ta 5 8, I felt pretty stupid when I realized my mistake. Have been chasing this problem for 3 days now. Lol
 
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Old Sep 7, 2020 | 05:27 PM
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I've made much more expensive mistakes than that(wrong flexplate)... don't sweat it.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 02:15 PM
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Ok, I'm back. Fixed the code 334. Reset by disconnecting negative on battery. Now getting code 111, which is the pass code. However, motor still stumbling and idling slightly rough. How long for the computer to learn new parameters? Or do I have something else going on?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 02:23 PM
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just to be clear... there should be 3 vacuum solenoids TAB, TAD, and EVR which is the one controlling the EGR.

 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by R&RFord
just to be clear... there should be 3 vacuum solenoids TAB, TAD, and EVR which is the one controlling the EGR.
EGR solenoid, EGR, and EVP all new. Still code 111, after a test drive. Still a rough idle. I did do a comp cam and complete Banks header and exhaust. Trying to work out the bugs.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 04:51 PM
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do you remember the specs, on cam, have you checked vacuum at idle, since new cam?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
do you remember the specs, on cam, have you checked vacuum at idle, since new cam?
no, I have not. Just assumed based on research, all would work well together. It really feels like a misfire under load. Gonna check fuel pressure, replace the plugs, keep digging into it. Motor ran great prior to rebuild, other than massive exhaust leak.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 05:32 PM
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before you replace plugs, see link, it has a way to test for misfire, see if you can get a vacuum reading, our trucks are picky on cam selection, no matter what engine.
Part 1 -How to Do a Cylinder Balance Test (Ford 5.0L, 5.8L)
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
before you replace plugs, see link, it has a way to test for misfire, see if you can get a vacuum reading, our trucks are picky on cam selection, no matter what engine.
Part 1 -How to Do a Cylinder Balance Test (Ford 5.0L, 5.8L)
Thanks torq'ta 58, I'll look into this. Although I'll be mightily aggravated if it turns out to be a bad cam. New comp cams, recommended by several FTE members.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 06:07 PM
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This is the cam and lifter package i put in.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 08:30 PM
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I had just put in new (purdy) blue plug wires, and had what I considered, a hard idle, under load seemed to clear up, finally found it 'them' ohmed the wires a 3rd time, shaking them,, the spiral core wire had broke, and showing the fiberglass, where it was stripped back to and crimped, #4, and the coil wire were like that.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
I had just put in new (purdy) blue plug wires, and had what I considered, a hard idle, under load seemed to clear up, finally found it 'them' ohmed the wires a 3rd time, shaking them,, the spiral core wire had broke, and showing the fiberglass, where it was stripped back to and crimped, #4, and the coil wire were like that.
I've shaken the wires while running, even coil wire to no affect. Gonna check compression and fuel pressure tomorrow. Brand. New. Rebuilt. Motor. Bout to lose my mind over here!
 
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