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It’s time to rebuild my 351 at 233,000km. It’s been burning oil for some time but it’s still strong. This weekend I worked her hard pulling a very heavy boat and a box full of wood. She did great. Didn’t even use much more fuel then usual and in hilly terrain. 600 km out of both tanks (300km per tank) usually it gets 700km. But my fire wall was soaked with oil and I could smell it some times In The cab. I don’t have the breather hose going to the intake cause I don’t want it to be burning it.
Any way I did the cam shaft and up a few years ago. ( cam lifters , heads , intake ,headers) all new. At 210,000km.
Can i use the same cam with new bearings ?
should I go over size on anything? (Piston ring , rod bearing , main bearing)
can you guys recommend any good kits ? I want to replace Everything but the crank.
any tips or tricks while I’m i. There ?
and will I notice a huge gain in power with a tight motor?
I know I can do this rebuild on my own but I’ve never done one yet. Looking forward to it.
no rush on the rebuild. I’m going to gather parts over winter and do it in the spring. I need the truck for ice fishing and cutting wood.
thanks in advance! This is with the ice fishing wheels on.
Well if there isn't a big hurry and you're looking to rebuild, I probably would find another 351 block to use as the rebuilder. Since you will most likely have to take it to a machine shop for it to be bored and honed anyway. Why not get the jump on it so you can pull the old one and drop in the new one.
Since you dont know if the crank will need turned until the engine is disassembled, starting with a block that is already out of a vehicle let's you do that before taking the truck out of commission.
Well if there isn't a big hurry and you're looking to rebuild, I probably would find another 351 block to use as the rebuilder. Since you will most likely have to take it to a machine shop for it to be bored and honed anyway. Why not get the jump on it so you can pull the old one and drop in the new one.
Since you dont know if the crank will need turned until the engine is disassembled, starting with a block that is already out of a vehicle let's you do that before taking the truck out of commission.
That’s a good idea man.I’ll do that. I’m thinking about stroking it now too. For the torque.
Stroker-the dollar signs just went from this...$...$,,,$..to now this $$$$$$$$$$$$$, if your not careful and stay under 300hp, your will need a way to tune it, for it to run right, and if it has E4OD, will need a way to continue to drive it , it is also PCM controlled, just be fore-warned
Stroker-the dollar signs just went from this...$...$,,,$..to now this $$$$$$$$$$$$$, if your not careful and stay under 300hp, your will need a way to tune it, for it to run right, and if it has E4OD, will need a way to continue to drive it , it is also PCM controlled, just be fore-warned
your right. I thought I could stroke it for a couple hundred bucks more. I was disappointed to find out costs WAY MORE!! Regular old 351 rebuild it is , with quality parts.
Call around to local machine shops that do engines and see what they charge for a bore and hone, cam bearing install, freeze plug install and new pistons on rods. When you get that total, add in your total rebuild kit plus pistons. And if you go the spare rebuilder engine route, add that too.
It may be that it's cheaper to buy a reman engine short block than to rebuild to a stock level.
Mudsport96
You hit the nail on the head, with BFH! Shops here are in the $2,300-$2,700, and reman with heads are in the $1,500-$1,700, Jasper engines wants $3,200(3yr waranty), I'm glad I was sitting down.
Mudsport96
You hit the nail on the head, with BFH! Shops here are in the $2,300-$2,700, and reman with heads are in the $1,500-$1,700, Jasper engines wants $3,200(3yr waranty), I'm glad I was sitting down.
This is a reply mail I received when I asked about deck height on their 351w part number SP09.
Now this engine is without heads or cam, but you said you recently redid them, so reuse yours. Google atk engines and looks up short blocks. I think they are like 1300 and a 200 core.
The basic info
Block: Seasoned OE 351W Non-Roller 1988-1993
Bore/Stroke: 4.040 x 3.500
Displacement: 351 C.I.D.
Crankshaft: OE Ford Cast 3.500" Stroke 1 Piece Seal Externally Balanced 28oz
If you're rebuilding a motor use pistons that will produce 9-9.5: CR, that is free torque. That cam you have is technically not EFI friendly.. how did you come to choose it and how does it run?
If you're rebuilding a motor use pistons that will produce 9-9.5: CR, that is free torque. That cam you have is technically not EFI friendly.. how did you come to choose it and how does it run?
I checked NLOC, and the specs on the stock lightning cam are pretty close to his cam. Same intake lobe profile but his exhaust lobe is smaller both duration and lift. Maybe that's what's saving him from the tight LSA.
It's got a lot more duration at 50 thou but less total duration... IMO kind of a strange choice for a 5.8 EFI motor with better than stock heads but if it delivers the kind of powerband he wants who is gonna argue.
It's still a small cam in the big scheme of things so that is why it "works" with SD.
It's got a lot more duration at 50 thou but less total duration... IMO kind of a strange choice for a 5.8 EFI motor with better than stock heads but if it delivers the kind of powerband he wants who is gonna argue.
It's still a small cam in the big scheme of things so that is why it "works" with SD.
ah you're right. I went back and reread the post and the guy posted had "the lightnings cam" in quotes. Referring to his lightning. Which had an aftermarket cam.
I checked NLOC, and the specs on the stock lightning cam are pretty close to his cam. Same intake lobe profile but his exhaust lobe is smaller both duration and lift. Maybe that's what's saving him from the tight LSA.
