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Just picked up a 2002V 10 and I’m going through it. The heater blend door defaults to defrost mode. Clearly the blend door actuator is not getting vacuum or it’s shot. I found some vacuum hoses over near the vacuum canister on the passenger side that are not connected. Could somebody post a picture of theirs so that I can see how this is supposed to go back together?
here’s a picture of what I see.
with the vehicle running I put my fingers over all these lines and I don’t feel any vacuum.
The solenoid is the usual fail point on this system. I had the defrost default issue until I replaced my solenoid.
That big box under your T-connector is the vacuum reservoir tank and looks like you might be missing the two holed, soft rubber connector that goes on the side there. There should be more vacuum hose ends floating around inside your engine bay.
ok that is a helpful start. I will go investigate. is that pvh selenoid located near the end of that vacuum reservoir? I see there are 2 vacuum lines connected there.
Also when i cycle the switch to 4x4 with hubs in auto only the passenger hub engages.
ok that is a helpful start. I will go investigate. is that pvh selenoid located near the end of that vacuum reservoir? I see there are 2 vacuum lines connected there.
Also when i cycle the switch to 4x4 with hubs in auto only the passenger hub engages.
Thanks. Yeah I am missing stuff and I need those soft rubber connectors and some tube. Anyone have a link or part number for the bits? maybe there is a vacuum rebuild kit out there?
Thanks. Yeah I am missing stuff and I need those soft rubber connectors and some tube. Anyone have a link or part number for the bits? maybe there is a vacuum rebuild kit out there?
ok here is my fix in case someone comes across this later. I followed my vacuum hoses back and at the top of the motor near the throttle body is close to the firewall as you can get there are vacuum hoses that attach right there. It is a three-way rubber connector. One of those lines heads toward the vacuum canister (confirmed at the junkyard on a 5.4 and a v10 of similar years). One of those lines goes to a little item up by the Cowl. One of those lines goes around to the driver side. So I needed the line that goes from the back top of the motor to the cannister, the rubber going into the canister, and a couple bits connecting it all up. basically I needed the lines in red on this pic.
One of the motors that I found still had a partial factory part number sticker wrapped around the vacuum line. If you’re having this issue this may be what you’re looking for: ford yc3e-9e498-ab
i pulled all this
When I got home I was able to thread the long tube from the canister to the back of the throttlebody and found that it was not the exact size, but I was able to cut it down being careful not to crush the tube and sticking a nail in the end to open it up nice and round. The downside was there was no Barb on the end to hold any connectors together. I took some Hose i had on hand that was tight to the vacuum line and slipped it over each end and put A zip tie both sides tightening it down.
maybe you can see it here
Back at the vacuum canister I attached the two rubber boots that I was missing and looking at the previous post I saw how the lines were supposed to run to the factory T. The canister and lines that I pulled must’ve been to a 2 Wheel Dr. because it had one section of the T capped off. I remove the And connected it and fed it to the solenoid mounted to the passenger side wheel well as shown above.
The rubber boot was bad so as you can see in this picture I used another piece of hose. The barbs were there so this was easy just slipped it together.
I I put it all together I started up and tested. The heater blend door now works. I don’t hear a vacuum leak. But my 4 Wheel Dr. does not pull vacuum past the solenoid. My guess is that the solenoid is bad. for me that’s fine as the hubs move nice and smooth manual and I got no issues there. I’m going to save the solenoid fix for a later time probably after I do wheel bearings.
Hope that helps someone
The solenoid is inexpensive on Rockauto. The only other thing is the 4wd vacuum seals in the hubs. You can do a smoke test on those to verify they are leaking.
copy that. I am going to tackle the hubs and that selenoid later on. thanks for the heads up and all your help. right now I am happy the vacuum whistle is gone, parts are back in place and the blend doors are off defrost! I may just disconnect and put a cap on that line going to the selenoid for now until I get to going through that later.