master cylinder upgrade/update ?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 237
From: NE Ohio
master cylinder upgrade/update ?
Without moving to a hydroboost setup, is there anyway to update the master cylinder to one with the plastic cap?
I'm so over dealing with this metal lid/rubber gasket and brake fluid getting pushed out of the top.
I cleaned the lip off the master cylinder, replaced the gasket and it still wants to push brake fluid past the lid.
I do not have it over filled so that isn't the problem. It just isn't sealing and I'm over dealing with that pos baling wire.
Both my ford truck do this and I'm out of ideas besides getting c clamps and ratcheting that POS down tight
I did a search but all I found was posts about the hydroboost upgrade. Can you say frustrated?
I'm so over dealing with this metal lid/rubber gasket and brake fluid getting pushed out of the top.
I cleaned the lip off the master cylinder, replaced the gasket and it still wants to push brake fluid past the lid.
I do not have it over filled so that isn't the problem. It just isn't sealing and I'm over dealing with that pos baling wire.
Both my ford truck do this and I'm out of ideas besides getting c clamps and ratcheting that POS down tight
I did a search but all I found was posts about the hydroboost upgrade. Can you say frustrated?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
There was a recent post about this. It was a little vague and unclear with nothing definitive if I remember correctly. I have never done the swap, but from memory of someone doing it long ago, the bolt pattern to the booster didn't match up exactly and require a little filing of the holes of the newer master cylinder to make it fit the studs. I get the impression it's very close, so not too much filing is required. And then the fittings on the lines won't match up, but you may be able to find adapters in the store to make that work. Keep researching.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 237
From: NE Ohio
There was a recent post about this. It was a little vague and unclear with nothing definitive if I remember correctly. I have never done the swap, but from memory of someone doing it long ago, the bolt pattern to the booster didn't match up exactly and require a little filing of the holes of the newer master cylinder to make it fit the studs. I get the impression it's very close, so not too much filing is required. And then the fittings on the lines won't match up, but you may be able to find adapters in the store to make that work. Keep researching.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,560
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
I recently bought a rebuilt Cardone (never again 
) power booster/master cyl unit & installed it.
Like yours, the lid immediately poured fluid out. After trying a couple of different gaskets I looked closer....it didn't have a machined surface for the gasket & lid to seal onto, just the cast face which also had a depression in one spot, it was never going to seal.
I stripped it down for machining & saw the rear face of the cylinder (that mates to the booster) was also just rough-cast; there was still pitting in the bore from the rebuild; & the aluminum piston also had corrosion pitting........I hurled it into the rubbish pile & ordered a brand new Raybestos unit which was perfect.
Your top surface might be the issue too
) power booster/master cyl unit & installed it.Like yours, the lid immediately poured fluid out. After trying a couple of different gaskets I looked closer....it didn't have a machined surface for the gasket & lid to seal onto, just the cast face which also had a depression in one spot, it was never going to seal.
I stripped it down for machining & saw the rear face of the cylinder (that mates to the booster) was also just rough-cast; there was still pitting in the bore from the rebuild; & the aluminum piston also had corrosion pitting........I hurled it into the rubbish pile & ordered a brand new Raybestos unit which was perfect.
Your top surface might be the issue too
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 129
From: Atlantic Canada
The main reason I did the swap was to get rid of the rusty cast iron stock style master.
Details:
The front and rear brake ports are reversed from the stock master cylinder, so you will have to deal with that. (I was running new lines anyway, so NBD)
The rear residual pressure valve (attached to the master cylinder) does not come with a new master. I grabbed one at the Junkyard for $5 bucks (and a spare for another $5).
I removed the original Bullnose prop valve on the frame, and then connected the two wires to the float switch in the new master (so my brake warning light still functions). If you go to the junkyard to get a residual pressure valve, grab the float switch pigtail from the same truck.
Other than that, it works just fine. I've had it on there for a couple years now I think.
The piston is the same size as original, so braking power is the same.
The later master fits the Bullnose booster just fine. (Although I did adjust the push-rod tip a little bit)
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,317
Likes: 1,243
I'm on my 2nd or 3rd master cylinder and none of the reservoirs ever leaked. Go with motorcraft or other top replacement and that shouldn't be an issue. I like the bail because it's easy and no tools required. A shop rag through the bail does make opening and closing real easy.
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