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Still looking at options. Definitely going to go with the 38639 orifice tube. Is there any reason to stick with a Motorcraft compressor, or are the kits on Amazon and the like just fine. I'd like something that is going to last me at least another 10+ years.
Think I'm going with the same kit FTN got from Amazon. Going to also a new evaporator. As a bonus, on my way home this afternoon my high pressure power steering line blew and puked ATF everywhere so I ordered a new one of those and a new power steering pump from Clay since the originals have over 240k on them.
I have the kit that FTN bought but the front of the compressor looks different than original. Not sure if it matters or not.
FTN, did your compressor pre-oiled, or did you have to add the 7oz yourself?
That’s just a different clutch. I had to add oil to the system myself. I don’t recall what the correct amount is at the moment. I replaced everything though so there was no residual oil.
EDIT: Our AC system takes 42oz of R134a refrigerant and 9oz of PAG 46 oil per this chart.
Got everything installed yesterday. Went pretty smoothly except for the line that connects from the condenser to the evaporator. I used the special release tool to separate the line, put in the new orifice, new o-rings, and new spring piece but can’t for the life of me get that to go back together.
The other issue I have is that my 20 year old heater core hoses finally gave up the ghost so I’ll be replacing those shortly. I’ve used the Ranger valve mod for the A/C previously and am wondering if I’ll still need it with the new SSJ recommended orifice.
I just use a 3/4” PEX barbed valve on the heater core supply. Close it late spring and open it in the fall. Costs about $10 and leaks/failures unlikely. (Unlike the other options...)
The quick connect fittings at the heater core often fail. I also delete these and just put hose clamps at the heater core. Not sure I’ve actually seen a hose failure.
What is the reason for ‘circulation in that circuit’?
I don't like liquid that is supposed to be circulating as part of a larger system stagnating in a dead end. The stuff in the heater core is still doing that admittedly but at least it's a smaller volume.
I don't like liquid that is supposed to be circulating as part of a larger system stagnating in a dead end. The stuff in the heater core is still doing that admittedly but at least it's a smaller volume.
I think some ‘fresh’ coolant will migrate to each side of the closed ball valve - but I don’t think it matters. I’ve put the ball valve on lots of trucks and no issues (including leaks).
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