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if you have done your best set up and are still having trouble with handling etc, then it is time to hit the scales.
1: weigh truck no trailer. Need front and rear axle weights
2: weigh truck and trailer with hitch hooked up. Need front, rear, and trailer axle weights.
3: weigh truck and trailer with the bars unhooked.
doing this gives you accurate truck, trailer, and tongue weights. It also tells you how much weight the hitch bars are shifting around.
I’d be willing to bet that you aren’t moving enough weight up to the front axle. If it is still sagging in the back, it probably isn’t Tight enough. Scales are your best friend. It’s less than $20 for an initial and two re weights.
here’s mine as an example:
Truck only Bars hooked up Bars unhooked 31 ft nice and level.
Mike, You might be level with the Expedition, but personally I think you are a tad nose high with the trailer and could give you a bit of wag. IMO, I would consider dropping one hole on the shank, then possibly dial the tilt upwards a bit afterwards. I think that would give you even a better level on the trailer, readjust your bars to run parallel with trailer frame, and keep your Exp level as well. Looks like a nice setup, I'm ocd about dialing the wdh in perfectly
It does look that way in the picture. There is actually a drop inlet just behind the fence to the left of the picture. So there is a bit of a vertical curve right under the camper.
I’ll double check it next time I get on a level pad, but last time I measured it, the frame was within 1/2” of being level front to back.
It sounds like your hitch is not setup right and you need more weight on the front axles. Tilting the ball back would give you more weight to the front axle. You need to measure the wheel wells to the ground both front and back before and after the trailer is connected. Make sure the front is not higher with the trailer connected than when it's not. If it is you need more angle. They should both drop about the same amount.
The front is always going to be higher with the trailer connected. A weight distribution hitch will greatly reduce the amount of rise on the front end, but it will still end up going up. You're not going to get those spring bars tight enough to make the front end of the truck go down with the trailer connected, let alone drop as much as the rear.
The front is always going to be higher with the trailer connected. A weight distribution hitch will greatly reduce the amount of rise on the front end, but it will still end up going up. You're not going to get those spring bars tight enough to make the front end of the truck go down with the trailer connected, let alone drop as much as the rear.
On some configurations you can get them tight enough to settle the front and rear the same, but I’m not sure how people are getting them hooked up when they are set that tight.
im returning 99% of the weight to the front axle and my measured height is the same as unloaded when measured at the wheel well. But in order to get them tight enough to do that, I have to raise the back of the truck with the jack about 4” in order to get the bars hooked up. Anything less than that, and it approaches the limits of my physics strength to get the snap up brackets locked in. Lifting the truck more would require a larger tongue jack because it is at its physical limit as well.
some do it, but I’m just not sure how they get it all hooked up. To me, that’s excessive, but some make it work and are happy with it set up that way.
I wouldn’t mind setting mine tighter, or at least trying, but changing the settings on those cam arms is kind of a bear to get them centered again. It pulls really really good so I’m not likely going to mess with them any.
hoping the OP comes back with some scale tickets so that we can help him out more. Or at least some fender measurements. If you can get your front measurement the same loaded and unloaded - especially on a half ton - you are 90% of the way there. The last 10% is just the icing on top.
On some configurations you can get them tight enough to settle the front and rear the same, but I’m not sure how people are getting them hooked up when they are set that tight.
im returning 99% of the weight to the front axle and my measured height is the same as unloaded when measured at the wheel well. But in order to get them tight enough to do that, I have to raise the back of the truck with the jack about 4” in order to get the bars hooked up. Anything less than that, and it approaches the limits of my physics strength to get the snap up brackets locked in. Lifting the truck more would require a larger tongue jack because it is at its physical limit as well.
some do it, but I’m just not sure how they get it all hooked up. To me, that’s excessive, but some make it work and are happy with it set up that way.
I wouldn’t mind setting mine tighter, or at least trying, but changing the settings on those cam arms is kind of a bear to get them centered again. It pulls really really good so I’m not likely going to mess with them any.
hoping the OP comes back with some scale tickets so that we can help him out more. Or at least some fender measurements. If you can get your front measurement the same loaded and unloaded - especially on a half ton - you are 90% of the way there. The last 10% is just the icing on top.
This really depends on which hitch you have. I use four 2x6s pieces (screwed together) under the foot of my jack so I don't need to spend all day waiting for the jack. I played around with setup on my Equalizer hitch when I had the F150. Its really not that hard to get the nose of the truck down. At one point I had nose 1/4" lower than with no trailer attached just by adding washers. You will reach a point where the hitch won't pick the rear of the truck any higher. At that point, at least to me, if its still sagging you have too much trailer for the truck OR you need air bags.
One thing that has worked for me is to connect the coupler to the ball, take care of everything else except for the WDH. Pull out of the storage spot and then pull back around in front of the storage spot. Pull out a set of 2x10 boards, doubled up in height and drive over those with the rear tires. That elevates the rear of the truck the same as elevating it with the tongue jack without the wear and tear on the tongue jack. Plus, it ensures that the truck/trailer are straight (this is optional, but helpful for some hitches).
My opinion is that if you're within the weight ratings of the truck and trailer, you should be able to get it setup to tow properly. Yes, you might need to add air bags or some other spring helper to eliminate sag, but that's not a terribly heavy camper and most 1/2 tons ought to be able to tow it.
That being said, get to a CAT scale. Use it to properly setup your WDH, which should eliminate some, but won't eliminate all squat. If you have confirmed everything is within specs and setup correctly at a scale and you still don't like the remaining squat, add air pages or some type of spring helper.
- Weigh the truck and trailer so the math is for reals and not theory
- If you can't get the proper suspension parts in time for your schedule, decide if running in a non-optimal configuration is worth the risk . . . based on the math
- Do the math honestly; how much is tongue weight? How much do passengers weigh? How much does dog, snacks, junk in bed weigh? Is either axle overloaded? Are any GVWs exceeded?
- 32' is a big thing to haul with an F150, your results may vary. Also, different regions present different challenges to this configuration.
Also: Take some time to learn about the physics involved here:
- Shocks dampen suspension motions, and generally don't support weight (unless we're talking inflatible air shocks)
- Causes of squat, overall weight? No. Tongue weight and cargo weight. Weight being held by trailer axles is not causing squat.
- Specifications are estimates at best. Scale slips are reality.
Watch some YouTube, do some reading, and ask more questions here. Guessing about the bullets above is not a good way to understand how to safely load and handle a trailer safely for you and the rest of us.
I have a 1/2 ton Ford F-150 and we're towing a 32 foot camper. I have a weight distribution hitch installed, but we're still getting considerable squat at the hitch and it's much lower than I would like.
We have the factory shocks, and I've heard the Bilstein 5100 are decent, but I'm not sure I can get those in time for my trip this week. I've also heard about air bags as possible suspension options. But again, I'm not sure I can get those in time.
I'm wondering if there's. More simple solution we can try first. What are some of the causes of the squat? Is it just overall weight? Or what if there's more weight toward the front?
And what about ball height? I also heard I should consider tilting back the ball some with washers in my weight distribution hitch?
Hi I just purchased a 2017 F-150 XLT Truck with 15,000 miles on it.. My wife needed a truck to our 12' long enclosed trailer for selling Etched Glass, Polished Rocks and Jewelry. We plan on getting on getting a lightweight trailer. We live in SW/ Michigan and plan on wintering in SW. Arizona. I wish I would have purchased an F-350 now but hindsight is 20/20. How far do you pull yours? If I stay under the 7300 pound do you think I will be ok? Thanks ~Bob Sorry for HiJacking your thread.
if you have done your best set up and are still having trouble with handling etc, then it is time to hit the scales.
1: weigh truck no trailer. Need front and rear axle weights
2: weigh truck and trailer with hitch hooked up. Need front, rear, and trailer axle weights.
3: weigh truck and trailer with the bars unhooked.
doing this gives you accurate truck, trailer, and tongue weights. It also tells you how much weight the hitch bars are shifting around.
I’d be willing to bet that you aren’t moving enough weight up to the front axle. If it is still sagging in the back, it probably isn’t Tight enough. Scales are your best friend. It’s less than $20 for an initial and two re weights.
here’s mine as an example:
Truck only Bars hooked up Bars unhooked 31 ft nice and level.
Hi I just purchased a 2017 F-150 XLT Truck with 15,000 miles on it.. My wife needed a truck to our 12' long enclosed trailer for selling Etched Glass, Polished Rocks and Jewelry. We plan on getting on getting a lightweight trailer. We live in SW/ Michigan and plan on wintering in SW. Arizona. I wish I would have purchased an F-350 now but hindsight is 20/20. How far do you pull yours? If I stay under the 7300 pound do you think I will be ok? Thanks ~Bob Sorry for HiJacking your thread.
Which engine do you have? The 3.3, no it wont be ok... the 2.7, 5.0 or 3.5, or diesel, probably just fine. Tell us more about the truck. Which engine? Gears, etc...
it is the 2.7L on the Engine 355 on the rear end. I wanted a bigger truck but the Wife fell in love instantly with the truck and couldn't put the brakes on fast enough. If there is any upgrades that will help please let me know, Thanks
it is the 2.7L on the Engine 355 on the rear end. I wanted a bigger truck but the Wife fell in love instantly with the truck and couldn't put the brakes on fast enough. If there is any upgrades that will help please let me know, Thanks
You "should" be ok for the occasional towing. I'd put a set up helper jounce style spring in the rear end to help some squat, and dont forget anything over 5000 pounds requires a brake controller and WDH hitch.
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