Yes. Did line x on mine about 8 years ago. Had a problem with rust on the roof. Took it to a body shop that specialists in 50-60's vintage car body work.

Had the roof stripped down to the white, ground the rust off, they sealed it with some kind of rust inhibitor and painted it.

I then took it to a local line x distributor and had them line x the roof. Can't remember how much it cost.

 

Pics to share?

 

I want to do the same. I may use DuraBak and do forest green around the perimeter and white on the rest so it looks good from the ground but you get the reflective properties of white.

 

Kid down the street did his whole Cheby duramax in line x. I've though about white inside the roof rails over line-x. On my project list. I would line x the roof then apply a silicone base white RV coating. It's slick as snail snot

 

So far you have come up with the idea I like the best! My Ex is Estate Green, and Bullet Liner comes in nearly any color, as I'm sure others do as well. Doing the perimeter in the same color as the body sounds like a great idea, then with white filling in the center. I'm thinking going a step further and filling in that crappy looking channel outboard of the roof rack rails covering them too.

Can anyone think of a drawback to that? It would be cosmetically pleasing and functional...

 

Sanding all the clear coat off without going through the base is VERY hard, if not impossible. You can hand smooth the clear edges and scuff up the existing and spray over it but it will show the existing clear/base as a different color. Maybe not such a big deal on the roof...but I am afraid that the other areas of the existing clear would eventually pop off if they weren't fixed properly.

 

With the new springs, who would see it ??

 

The weak spot on the X's top is where the roof ditches are. It's where the roof panels meet the quarter panels. If you do any work up there make sure to clear/remove any and all rust/contamination in those area's. If you don't and you cover it up it will break your heart later. The roof panels are no longer available.

 

I actually practiced wet sanding some old existing clear coat on my 94 F150. It wasn't that hard. I picked an area that was adjacent to an area of paint that had flaked off. I sanded the bad area of paint and surface rust off completely. Then I lightly sanded the clear coat off on the good areas near it. I primed then resprayed the color trying to blend it with the old paint that no longer had clear coat. The blend didn't come out that great but I think that was more of the clear I used. It's still way better than the old flaked off and rusty area on that old hood.
Only a hand sized area clear coat is failing on the EX but it's very visible just above the windshield. The paint is still good but dull. I think it will be worth trying with better clear coat.

 

Oh, it's definitely a time vs reward thing. Sanding edges and hitting small areas with clear is less time than a complete sand down, shoot base, and 2 coats clear. If you are ok with how it looks in either process, then it's the right process for you.

 

I'm also looking at cost. A shop would probably charge a few grand to do the entire roof. It'll be done right of course. I'll need to use the least expensive alternative while my EX is still sitting outside

 

I have had my roof problems as well. Tried fixing them my self, had the professionals give it a shot. All failed, so I ended up giving it another try this time using sand blasting instead of grinding with flap wheels, wire brush wheels and silicon carbide impregnated nylon etc. cleaned the area real well treated with an acid etch, DuPont Corlar two part epoxy primer and than a navy surplus two part epoxy top coat. (sorry no photos) Gave it a couple of days to cure, then went to the Line-X dealer who did the whole roof with a color matched white coating. Since that time about six years ago I have had zero troubles with my roof.

After the Pros did the job

I didn't go all the way to the glass, may have to do rust repair under the windshield

Side view of where the Line-X ends

Rear View where the Line-x ends

 

The color match looks really nice! I like the way you made the edge. Since I don't believe I have any rust (fingers crossed), I'm thinking of just filling in the channel rather than digging out the crap Ford put in there. What's the purpose of that channel anyway, a rain gutter? It makes for a pia when I wash the truck as water drips down the windshield seemingly for a long time. lol

Great job, now I'm sold on the concept of coating the roof with Bullet Liner or Line-X. The insulation for heat and sound should be improved quite a bit....

 

I had to make that same repair. Not quite as bad as yours. Ground it all the way to bare metal, used rust mort and 2 part epoxy primer, and then factory seam sealer.

 

That channel is where Ford welded the side panels to the roof panel. As far as digging out the self leveling seam sealer mine looked fine until I looked underneath. I did not want to just cover up a unseen problem so I started over.