FP on this forum and I'm taking on a project to build my first engine. I wrench on my s550 but I've never taken on a project where I'm starting from a bare engine block.

My goal is to create a 32/33 hot rod and I want to outfit it with a 302. Not looking for a performance machine, just a fun Sunday cruiser. This project is more about learning and giving me some wrenches to turn on the weekend, nothing more than that.

So, I have sourced a bare block 302 from a local guy, I know its an E7TE-CA - what are you looking for before deciding to buy? Which spots are you checking?

 

Also, how much are you paying? It's a completely bare block, not a thing on it. What does that run in your area?

 

That is a late model block which should be roller cam ready with raised bosses in the lifter valley and tops of the lifter bores machined flat. Look for ridge at the top of the cylinder bores to gauge how much milage it has on it, lots of ridge means lots of miles. That is about all you can do with the naked eye, it would need a visit to a machine shop to be magna fluxed for cracks to know if it's a good candidate for a rebuild or junk. Overall these are solid blocks but there are billions of them out there so the BIG question is why don't you just buy a complete 5.0 motor for rebuild, piecing it together one part at a time is going to cost a lot more overall.
The best donor motor you could get is a 5.0 from an Explorer, it's got a factory roller cam and the better GT40 heads which make it an easy 300hp motor with just a cam change and whatever carb and intake you like. The second best options are a '94+ truck motor, that is the same roller shortblock but with the lesser E7TE heads on it. All the internal parts of these engines are perfectly adequate for a daily driver or even a mild performance application and unlike the GM products of the same era the factory castings and machine work are high quality, so it won't need anything other than a stock rebuild in most cases.

 

I'm assuming you're referring to picking one up from a salvage yard and working off that?
I've considered that. However, there's a few reasons, mostly I don't have a lot of space, at least not enough to really be able to keep the extra parts around and keep other packages coming in. So, being able to start bare and build it up kinda suits me because I can order it piece-by-piece.

Also, I think a serious rebuild would require access to a good machine shop and most of the reviews of machine shops around me are awful. In fact, if anyone knows of a good machine shop in Las Vegas, I'd love to hear about it.

 

Not anywhere near California but I just purchased a short block from a '96 Explorer. Original cylinder cross hatch still showing. Pristine crank with good pistons, rods. $100. Got there too late to get the heads. I do believe this was an exceptional deal. I recently paid $300 for a running 1988 Crown Vic 5.0L w/AOD transmission. Not in as good of shape as the '96 Explorer block.

 

Thank you, the prices are good to know

 

In addition to the presence of a ridge at the top of the bores, look to see if the cross-hatching is still present in the bores. And are the freeze plugs present ? If they're missing then I would not fork over $$ untill it's been magnafluxed first. Also be sure the main caps are there and numbered 1 thru 5. The center cap is the thrust bearing location and should be machined on the ends like the main saddle under it. The rear main has the casting for the 1 piece rear seal. The other three pretty much identical to each other, so they should be numbered 1, 2 and 4