Reverse Level - 1.5" vs 2" block
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 435
Likes: 140
Reverse Level - 1.5" vs 2" block
So, I've decided to do a reverse level to lower the truck down to help with my gooseneck horse trailer. (I'll have to also lift the horse trailer!). My 2012 250 had 6.5" clearance, and now my '18 has less than 3".
I don't have airbags, and would prefer not to add, so I'm leaning towards the 2" rear block, as I'll probably have a level truck once hooked up to the trailer, whereas the 1.5" block would leave my truck about level unloaded, but most likely nose up once trailered.
Just wanted to verify my thinking on this. Also, seems like the PMF with the 2.5degree is the way to go instead of 2016 blocks with 0degree
Also, the PMFs come with the optional airbag support instead of a tang. Can those be used with the bumpstops instead of tang if I order but decide to hold off on airbags for a year? or should it always have airbags attached?
I don't have airbags, and would prefer not to add, so I'm leaning towards the 2" rear block, as I'll probably have a level truck once hooked up to the trailer, whereas the 1.5" block would leave my truck about level unloaded, but most likely nose up once trailered.
Just wanted to verify my thinking on this. Also, seems like the PMF with the 2.5degree is the way to go instead of 2016 blocks with 0degree
Also, the PMFs come with the optional airbag support instead of a tang. Can those be used with the bumpstops instead of tang if I order but decide to hold off on airbags for a year? or should it always have airbags attached?
New User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Deer Park, WA
when you hook up trailer loaded how mush does truck go down I would install blocks that made the truck level hooked up. I have air bags on mine
and went to a 1 in block to ride allmost level. I removed the org 3 in block for the truck to be level and than installed 1 in so that if you put anything
in the bed with no block you have nose up. I keep 2-3 lbs in bags most of the time when I haul my travel trailer i have 35 lbs in bags and everything
in level. so bottom line I put 80 lbs in bags hook up trailer let air out till level remove trailer and see how much air is in bags now all i do is air up too
that figure when going to haul that trailer and it level every time.
and went to a 1 in block to ride allmost level. I removed the org 3 in block for the truck to be level and than installed 1 in so that if you put anything
in the bed with no block you have nose up. I keep 2-3 lbs in bags most of the time when I haul my travel trailer i have 35 lbs in bags and everything
in level. so bottom line I put 80 lbs in bags hook up trailer let air out till level remove trailer and see how much air is in bags now all i do is air up too
that figure when going to haul that trailer and it level every time.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 377
Likes: 9
So, I've decided to do a reverse level to lower the truck down to help with my gooseneck horse trailer. (I'll have to also lift the horse trailer!). My 2012 250 had 6.5" clearance, and now my '18 has less than 3".
I don't have airbags, and would prefer not to add, so I'm leaning towards the 2" rear block, as I'll probably have a level truck once hooked up to the trailer, whereas the 1.5" block would leave my truck about level unloaded, but most likely nose up once trailered.
Just wanted to verify my thinking on this. Also, seems like the PMF with the 2.5degree is the way to go instead of 2016 blocks with 0degree
Also, the PMFs come with the optional airbag support instead of a tang. Can those be used with the bumpstops instead of tang if I order but decide to hold off on airbags for a year? or should it always have airbags attached?
I don't have airbags, and would prefer not to add, so I'm leaning towards the 2" rear block, as I'll probably have a level truck once hooked up to the trailer, whereas the 1.5" block would leave my truck about level unloaded, but most likely nose up once trailered.
Just wanted to verify my thinking on this. Also, seems like the PMF with the 2.5degree is the way to go instead of 2016 blocks with 0degree
Also, the PMFs come with the optional airbag support instead of a tang. Can those be used with the bumpstops instead of tang if I order but decide to hold off on airbags for a year? or should it always have airbags attached?
New User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Deer Park, WA
If you used longer shackles would that not raise the rear and if you used shorter shackles to drop rear that may not let springs compress fully
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 435
Likes: 140
I’ve seen these. Essentially, these shackles move the spring mounting point up towards the bed of the truck. So, a longer shackle raises the springs up bringing them closer to the bed, thus lowering the truck.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 324
Likes: 115
I went with the PMF 1.5" . I also got the air bags. Like you mentioned, with my 5th wheel on the truck and the 1.5" blocks the truck squats a little with no bags. I did it this way on purpose so I could bring the truck up just enough to level everything out (and no more). My fifth wheel was riding nose high before which is bad for the axles so I wanted to get the trailer level. Also rides really nice when loaded and a little better when not loaded.
If you go with the firestone bags you don need the re-enforced tang because they ride outside of the jounce stop which means you keep the factory stop in place and just add the bags.
My springs come in tomorrow so I can remove the snow plow package springs and go with a softer spring to drop the front about an inch. This will help with the ride and give the truck the rake back.
If you go with the firestone bags you don need the re-enforced tang because they ride outside of the jounce stop which means you keep the factory stop in place and just add the bags.
My springs come in tomorrow so I can remove the snow plow package springs and go with a softer spring to drop the front about an inch. This will help with the ride and give the truck the rake back.
Trending Topics
New User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Deer Park, WA
I should have looked a my truck your right I was thinking old school shackles down. Been a long time since messed with shackles to raise or lower vehicle.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 36
Likes: 3
exactly! Leaf springs attach at the top so the longer the shackle the lower it drops until the shackle hits the bed of course. I used the PMF kit.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 435
Likes: 140
I went with the PMF 1.5" . I also got the air bags. Like you mentioned, with my 5th wheel on the truck and the 1.5" blocks the truck squats a little with no bags. I did it this way on purpose so I could bring the truck up just enough to level everything out (and no more). My fifth wheel was riding nose high before which is bad for the axles so I wanted to get the trailer level. Also rides really nice when loaded and a little better when not loaded.
If you go with the firestone bags you don need the re-enforced tang because they ride outside of the jounce stop which means you keep the factory stop in place and just add the bags.
My springs come in tomorrow so I can remove the snow plow package springs and go with a softer spring to drop the front about an inch. This will help with the ride and give the truck the rake back.
If you go with the firestone bags you don need the re-enforced tang because they ride outside of the jounce stop which means you keep the factory stop in place and just add the bags.
My springs come in tomorrow so I can remove the snow plow package springs and go with a softer spring to drop the front about an inch. This will help with the ride and give the truck the rake back.
then, a bumper pull camper. With the bumper pull, I use a WD hitch, so the internal jounce in the airbag is a requirement, as I would want the bags basically empty so the WD hitch can properly transfer weight (which gives it its sway control - Equal-I-zer)
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 324
Likes: 115
good to know. Maybe I should go down to 1.5” and do bags. I tow a horse trailer and also an equipment trailer either filled with square bales (250) or 14 round bales.
then, a bumper pull camper. With the bumper pull, I use a WD hitch, so the internal jounce in the airbag is a requirement, as I would want the bags basically empty so the WD hitch can properly transfer weight (which gives it its sway control - Equal-I-zer)
then, a bumper pull camper. With the bumper pull, I use a WD hitch, so the internal jounce in the airbag is a requirement, as I would want the bags basically empty so the WD hitch can properly transfer weight (which gives it its sway control - Equal-I-zer)
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,298
Likes: 2,197
So, I've decided to do a reverse level to lower the truck down to help with my gooseneck horse trailer. (I'll have to also lift the horse trailer!). My 2012 250 had 6.5" clearance, and now my '18 has less than 3".
I don't have airbags, and would prefer not to add, so I'm leaning towards the 2" rear block, as I'll probably have a level truck once hooked up to the trailer, whereas the 1.5" block would leave my truck about level unloaded, but most likely nose up once trailered.
Just wanted to verify my thinking on this. Also, seems like the PMF with the 2.5degree is the way to go instead of 2016 blocks with 0degree
Also, the PMFs come with the optional airbag support instead of a tang. Can those be used with the bumpstops instead of tang if I order but decide to hold off on airbags for a year? or should it always have airbags attached?
I don't have airbags, and would prefer not to add, so I'm leaning towards the 2" rear block, as I'll probably have a level truck once hooked up to the trailer, whereas the 1.5" block would leave my truck about level unloaded, but most likely nose up once trailered.
Just wanted to verify my thinking on this. Also, seems like the PMF with the 2.5degree is the way to go instead of 2016 blocks with 0degree
Also, the PMFs come with the optional airbag support instead of a tang. Can those be used with the bumpstops instead of tang if I order but decide to hold off on airbags for a year? or should it always have airbags attached?
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 435
Likes: 140
too late! I did the 1.5” PMF blocks (no taper) with airbag supports and added AirLift bags with the ez mount wireless compressor.
I still have to block my horse trailer up about 2” so it’s level as I’ve dropped the gooseneck couple down 2” to get some clearance. Got 5.5” now, so the 2” lift at the axles should put me at 6” clearance.
I still have to block my horse trailer up about 2” so it’s level as I’ve dropped the gooseneck couple down 2” to get some clearance. Got 5.5” now, so the 2” lift at the axles should put me at 6” clearance.
