When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have a 2007 E450 with a V10 and 5R110W, when i bought it it had dead batteries, i tossed two batteries in and it fired up, moved it half a mile, shut it down, fired it back up and drove it home. Ever since driving it home, it will not crank anymore. I can turn the key to start and nothing happens no matter the gear
I traced the start wire from the key which has 12v down to the 10 amp fuse which also gets 12v and isn't blown, power is making it through, however measuring at the starter relay in the junction box it never gets energized(relay is grounded, no 12v), I jumped the relay out and the vehicle will start with the relay jumped, starter cranks, so the question I have is what else is between the 10amp fuse and the starter relay, i imagine the neutral safety switch? anything else easy that im missing? It never had any issues starting the two times I did it, just now suddenly will not start never showed any signs of issue, wasn't intermittent, just went from working as expected to 100% dead
I had something similar---working fine one minute without a hitch then suddenly and without warning absolutely nothing. Suspecting the starter solenoid I traced voltage through it to the starter and nothing, test light showing ignition switch was working perfectly. My '03 E250 with 5.4 had about 214,500 miles and 12 years old at the time.
As you say absolutely nothing suggesting the starter was about to die---it was strong and spun the engine with ease so it came as a complete surprise or shock.
Remove the starter and have it tested if you have a local shop that can/will do that. I'm lucking to have an automotive electrical rebuilder nearby---this guy is amazing but probably about ready to retire---I shudder to think what will become of his shop, whether someone will pick up where he leaves off.
Good luck with this---please let us know what you discover.
I don't know if you saw the small part at the end, if i put jumpers in the relay across 30 and 87, the starter will start the van, whatever feeds the starter relay in the junction box isn't feeding it, the only thing i can assume is between the 10 amp fuse and the relay is the MLPS?
I did miss that and apologize for replying to quickly and incorrectly. Are you working from a Ford schematic?
If you suspect the MLPS try putting it into neurtal to see if the Park position has lost continuity. Also inside the Battery Junction Box (under hood fuse/relay box) F18 (60 amp) and Starter Relay which is also located in that box. On my 2005 those fuses/relays are here:
Find and download the owners manual for your year where you'll find the underhood fuse/relay box diagram. This info is from my printed EVTM for your year, the photo is of my own '05 but seems to be missing F18 showing as the 60 amp fuse for your year. I've not checked the proper schematic for my '05 as I've not had an issue with the starter circuit to date so there could be different fuse locations in the different years.
.
Sorry for jumping too quickly and I hope this new info helps.
I did miss that and apologize for replying to quickly and incorrectly. Are you working from a Ford schematic?
If you suspect the MLPS try putting it into neurtal to see if the Park position has lost continuity. Also inside the Battery Junction Box (under hood fuse/relay box) F18 (60 amp) and Starter Relay which is also located in that box. On my 2005 those fuses/relays are here:
Find and download the owners manual for your year where you'll find the underhood fuse/relay box diagram. This info is from my printed EVTM for your year. This photo is of my own '05 but seems to be missing F18 showing as the 60 amp fuse for your year I've not checked the proper schematic for my '05 as I've not had an issue with the starter circuit to date.
Sorry for jumping too quickly and I hope this new info helps.
You are about where me and others got to now, my 60A is good and my 10 amp under the dash is good, 12v flows out of the 10 amp fuse which according to my book goes to the relay, the relay is grounded to the ecm which checks the MLPS and determins if it's safe to start, according to my readings the 12v never makes it to that starter relay, as if I have a break in the wiring between the fuse in the cab and the bulkhead harness leading to the relay, I'm a bit lost and everything is super tight, but hope is on the way, I think
Won't start with shifter in any position, I've tried many different positions
I am not sure if this applies or not,but I just changed 2 starters on my 2000 E 350 and a friends 2002 F250. In both cases, there is was a note with the new starter stating that there is a problem with corrosion at one of the starter wire connections on the starter.The replacement starters both had updated "pigtails" on them. This is ,evidently,a problem Ford has known about for some time.
I am not sure if this applies or not,but I just changed 2 starters on my 2000 E 350 and a friends 2002 F250. In both cases, there is was a note with the new starter stating that there is a problem with corrosion at one of the starter wire connections on the starter.The replacement starters both had updated "pigtails" on them. This is ,evidently,a problem Ford has known about for some time.
since it works at the starter relay if i jump the relay i can only assume that is unrelated?
Im chasing down if theres some sort of ignition interlock going on or something else funny, got alot of info today
current to energize that relay comes through the P/N switch at the side of the transmission, its gone bad.
not in 2007, the digital MLPS has the ecu ground the leg of the relay when in P or N, the + side only passes through the ignition switch to the 10 amp fuse 33 directly to the relay + terminal
I agree your issue may be centered around the actual wiring or a harness connector that's developed corrosion or other issues causing a loss of continuity. Things are indeed quite cramped inside the E-Series engine bays so I don't envy the work you're facing.
Sorry I couldn't be more helpful but you seem to have this heading in the right direction---good luck
I agree your issue may be centered around the actual wiring or a harness connector that's developed corrosion or other issues causing a loss of continuity. Things are indeed quite cramped inside the E-Series engine bays so I don't envy the work you're facing.
Sorry I couldn't be more helpful but you seem to have this heading in the right direction---good luck
I found it, it was a safety interlock device on the ignition line tied to the back of the van for a safety for the fuel filler cap, now starts
Edit: Probably should be more specific, i never mentioned this is a CNG van and it's the rubber dust cap that goes on the cng filler inside the fuel door. it must be installed on the cng filler or it won't start, it grounds out a transistor circuit added in under the hood below the coolant bottle, lotta tracing to get there but i did. Im still new to CNG vehicles, especially ex fleet
I found it, it was a safety interlock device on the ignition line tied to the back of the van for a safety on the fuel door, fuel door was ajar, slammed it shut, now starts
Dayum and Wow---great find and thanks sooooooo much for sharing your discovery!
I just edited my above post with more accurate and important info, and figured out why slamming the fuel door shut fixed the issue
NOW you give us the rest of the story! (Good idea posting your follow up in the preceding post.)
I always pretty much insist someone seeking help specifically list their year, fuel type and chassis rating in order to receive the best advice. Honestly in your case it never occurred to me it might be CNG.
NOW you give us the rest of the story! (Good idea posting your follow up in the preceding post.)
I always pretty much insist someone seeking help specifically list their year, fuel type and chassis rating in order to receive the best advice. Honestly in your case it never occurred to me it might be CNG.
it used to be a gas van that was converted to CNG by the city, very well too, has the oem cng injection system, ecu, and most of the factory cng parts. but they did minimal wire hacking to do it, this was the only spot they spliced anything in
i'll be honest i thought i had mentioned it was CNG, but i had crossposted this onto another place and over there i had already indicated in a prior post it was CNG, i forgot to do that here, and feel kinda dumb about it, oh well, live n learn
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
never showed any signs of issue, wasn't intermittent, just went from working as expected to 100% dead
(Good idea posting your follow up in the preceding post.)