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2 to 6 jumped key on engine not running.
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Engine at idle 2 to 6 not jumped.
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Rented the Gauge and either there is an issue or maybe I did this wrong I'm not sure but I did what the book said and I got no more than 10 lb of pressure and then I tried to do the engine running and I can't get a reading on the at all. So I tried the not running test again now the gauge won't register lol I saw something with the self test plug what's up with that

 

Getting the Ford adapter for the gauge is critical. When you rent it go out to your vehicle and make sure it fits before you leave. I had the same thing happen to me. In fact you might be able to see if they will just let you take the gauge out to your truck and do the test and then take it back in without all the paperwork and you will be sure to have the proper adapter at the same time. Sandy

 

I had an issue where my truck had very poor performance when I floored it, or going uphill. My problem was the infamous broken white vacuum line near the heater (in the engine bay). Just throwing it out there.

-Mike

 

thanks I'm checking everything I looked for that line can't find it though appreciate you

 

yeah it came with the Ford adapter
got that

 

Here is a picture:

 

thank you we'll check this tomorrow she is still being a pain

 

I used the test gauge today and the pressure was right now I did not use the test plug I did the test without it running and then test with it to the floor I did not need the plug right the test plug because if not My fuel pressure is fine

 

I've had fuel pressure measure within spec in the driveway, but fall precipitously while driving. In my opinion a fuel pressure test is not complete (and thus not very useful) if you don't measure the fuel pressure while you're having the symptoms that lead you to do the test in the first place. Typically this means taping the gauge to the windshield and going for a drive. When the truck runs poorly, get a look at the gauge in that instant. That's the number that matters.

 

I thought about that myself but being is this is not my gauge and it is a rental tool I don't think I'm going to tape it to the windshield lol thank you though I am going to check the catalytic converter

 

My vote is for the fuel pump or the fuel pressure regulator but could also be a hidden culprit thats easily overlooked.


Rent a pressure tester which ends up being free in the end and put the hose through the hood with hood ajar put a bungee cord for safety to prevent hood from flying up and smacking windshield then drive truck and watch the gauge to see if it stays in range at all times..Or you can pull a sparkplug or two to see what they say...Mine looked like I just installed them with a slightly browned ring at the plug base...

I also noticed you never stated whether or not you changed the fuel filter..The paper gets like jelly inside when it gets old.....

On my dual tank setup the tanks were Y'd together and the selector switch just picked which pump it ignited. On the top of the tank it had these anti-backflow type check valves on the feed lines to prevent the tank thats not being used from being backfed by the other.The one in the rear would intermittently allow the fuel to run to the tank with great pressure then sometimes it would get stuck or partially stuck causing my engine to run very sluggish when running after 20-25 mins so I eliminated the rear tank and the selector switch and ran it on the side tank only for about 11 years then the engine pressure engine lean out problem returned and I was chasing ghosts with fuel pressure and even dialed-in the pressure with an adjustable pressure regulator plus put a digital gauge and kept getting different readings questioning the regulators effectiveness then I remembered about that rear gastank problem with the rear tank 11 years prior as I found the lines both had the additional bullet shaped check valves and got an epiphany and went under the truck dropped the side tank a couple inches pulled the clip that secures the fuel line and pulled the fuelline then pulled the clip that secures the anti-backflow device and pulled the anti backflow doohickey off the fueltank inlet and just attached the fuel line direct to the tank inlet....The fuel pump already has a check valve built-in so it worked fine for me after that as I have only 1 tank..

I was under the impression that there was some sort of electrically controlled valve that works off of the selector switch that diverts the fuel properly and I literally spent a couple hours trying to find one thinking in the end somebody ripped it out prompting me to remove the rear tank and the switch and hardwiring the side tank only and when I removed the rear tank saw the bullet shaped device took a pic shot it to Ford and they told me what it was but by then it was too late the damage was done.......LOL

Good Luck

 

She already rented a fuel pressure gauge and stated that she is reluctant to drive with it taped to the windshield because it is a rented tool.

Correct. That is how the later system worked. A high pressure pump in each tank with check valves in the fuel pump module controlled by the dash switch. Seems to me that the FDM was failing after 20(?) years of use so instead of learning how system works you ripped it out and rewired it to work on only one tank. I don’t understand that thought process.

The inline check valves were installed as part of a TSB so ford didn’t have to drop the gas tank(s) replace the defective fuel delivery modules (fuel pump assemblies).

 

Yeah I easily forgot that part..It was late and wanted to contribute but the OP shouldn't worry about a rental tool as they're expected to get mucked up///Do you know how many ball joint tool sets I rented and ruined and have gotten my whole $255.00 back every-time no questions asked and I even tell them the tool is FUBAR'd as sometimes I use the loaner tools in unconventional ways too..[alot lol]...

Thats the best part about loaner tools.Unless you lose parts n pieces they're literally no-fault items.....My windshield wiper held the tester in place strong enough to outlast a small tst that can be done under 40mph as its the takeoff load that burns the brunt of the fuel....Ive even held onto rental tools for 11 months and returned them worn smooth out and have gotten every penny back no questions asked..LOL..

Anyways Ill say if she was having a Catalytic converter issue she'd know....Mine melted down inside and caused low power but also glowed red after a 15 min run at 55mph and also killed the oxygen sensor plus the exhaust manifold started to leak from being warped on the passenger side as my exhaust manifolds were de-void of any type of gaskets from the factory;-just a nice factory fit.......It also gives the truck a feeling theres a rag jambed in the tailpipe along with a funny smell and an engine that was running on the hot side according to the needle as it was on the M of NORMAL and never ever touched the O prior or even after and I run a two speed electric fan from a Diesel in which the first speed of the fan kicks on at 195 degrees and set for 185 with the high speed part of the fan kicking-in at 200 degrees but that never happens.....LOL........

There was another time I was experiencing problems similar to hers too..It turned out to be a faulty Air intake temp sensor..It was caked up with carbon very very badly.......

Then there was a time all the vacuum lines started deteriorating and causing issues keeping vacuum pressure for the EGR and the MAP sensor so I ripped it all out and hooked-up only pertinent things direct off the spider connector on the intake manifold which is only brakes,EGR solenoid,fuel pressure regulator MAP sensor and heater controls....The hawiian punch can that was rotted and leaking has been eliminated........I have no CEL light as I tricked the system into thinking everything is still hooked-up correctly by keeping the solenoids and the sensors hooked up but got them tucked away behind the intake manifold..Even before they did away with tailpipe sniffers on OBD1 cars n trucks in NY my truck still passed the tests as at the time I still had a catalystic converter as the MSD system and ACCEL TFI module really wakes up the power and completes combustion very nicely and I always run 93 octane in it.....

Then there was the issue with the coolant temp sensor causing similar problems too and the lower aswell as upper bronze shaft bushings that went bad in the distributor causing erratic air gap between the pickup plate and the halls effect trigger with low power due to a heavily worn thrust plate that controls camshaft walk that wasnt noticeable until after the engine was fully warmed-up and driving more than an hour as it stressed the computer and the TFI module trying to constantly correct the issue .........

Oh almost last and not the least was the first time I was introduced to the almighty spout connector after doing a tune-up and figured I botched something after adjusting the timing and not getting the desired results even after turning it back to where it was....I just overlooked resetting the timing advance/retard by disconnecting then reconnecting the spout connector it seemed....LOL

Even the intake manifold gave me issues after the engine was fully warmed..It sipped water aswell as sucked the vapors from inside the engine that inadvertantly was the culprit for why the IAT failed from heavy carbon build-up but didnt give any issues when the engine was cold or run under an hour...Same deal for the exhaust manifold leaks that leaned out the fuel mix so bad it couldnt be corrected by the computer opening up the injectors as both issues caused low power too.....

And last thing to ad was the faulty brake booster problem...The brakes worked fine but the diaphragm had a slight leak which lowered vacuum signal which affected power...........

I hope she bites the bullet and either takes it to a proper mechanic to have it diagnosed or does the right tests needed before she burns a valve or extends the repair list.....Lots of luck to her

 

Did I ever post that it turns out it was to low on gas LMAO