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Multiple Codes After Plug Change

Old Jun 23, 2020 | 04:52 PM
  #1  
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Multiple Codes After Plug Change

Hello,
I recently did a few PM tasks to my 2002 E450 Winnebago 31'. Mileage is 97k.

New Plugs and boots
New Fuel Filter
Cleaned MAF sensor
Pulled PCV valve and made sure she still rattled
New thermostat
New coolant reservoir cap

Prior to these things, it was running a little rough and that's what led me to the maintenance items. I read 10,734 posts about replacing the plugs and followed the guidance I found here and over at irv2.com

I'd done a few 8-15 mile test drives and everything was okay. No CEL. Today, I took the TOAD to storage and picked up the coach and towed the car home. Service Engine Soon light came on withing 4 miles and I got codes indicating misfires in 7,8,10 along with P0174 Lean on Bank 2. I cleared them and drove the remaining 20 miles home. Thought maybe it was reestablishing it's baseline. No codes the rest of the way and it seemed to run well.

Threw the code reader on it at home and got the following pending codes. Seems to me that it's got to be something simple I forgot to plug in or similar silly oversight. I did unplug the injectors when I did the plugs. I confirmed the MAF sensor is plugged back in. I don't think I unplugged anything else.

Any and all suggestions and questions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

And of course, we are scheduled for a trip the Eastern Sierras on Saturday.
============1==============
P0310
Raw code: 0310
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
OBDII: Cylinder 10 - misfire detected
Ford: Cylinder #10 Misfire Detected
============2==============
P0886
Raw code: 0886
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
OBDII: Transmission control module (TCM) power relay, control - circuit low
============3==============
P0703
Raw code: 0703
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
OBDII: Brake switch B - circuit malfunction
Ford: Brake Switch Input Malfunction
============4==============
P0503
Raw code: 0503
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
OBDII: Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) - intermittent/erratic/high input
Ford: Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent
============5==============
B1503
Raw code: 9503
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
Ford: Lamp Turn Signal Right Circuit Failure
============6==============
P0303
Raw code: 0303
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
OBDII: Cylinder 3 - misfire detected
Ford: Cylinder #3 Misfire Detected
============7==============
P0300
Raw code: 0300
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
OBDII: Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected
Ford: Random Misfire Detected
============8==============
P0174
Raw code: 0174
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
OBDII: System too lean, bank 2
Ford: System Too Lean (Bank 2)
 

Last edited by 2002 e450 V10; Jun 23, 2020 at 05:02 PM. Reason: More Information
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Old Jun 23, 2020 | 05:56 PM
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Got the CEL to come on. Here's what codes came up now.

Going to check the PCV hose elbow. Maybe cracked it when moving the hose around doing the plugs?

============1==============
P0305
Raw code: 0305
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
OBDII: Cylinder 5 - misfire detected
Ford: Cylinder #5 Misfire Detected
============2==============
P0303
Raw code: 0303
ECU: 10
Status: Pending
OBDII: Cylinder 3 - misfire detected
Ford: Cylinder #3 Misfire Detected
============3==============
P00D2
Raw code: 00D2
ECU: 10
Status: Confirmed
============4==============
P1000
Raw code: 1000
ECU: 10
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
Ford: Check of all OBDII Systems Not Complete Ford Manufacturer Codes; OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete
============5==============
B3903
Raw code: B903
ECU: 10
Status: Confirmed
============6==============
P0308
Raw code: 0308
ECU: 10
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Cylinder 8 - misfire detected
Ford: Cylinder #8 Misfire Detected
============7==============
P0307
Raw code: 0307
ECU: 10
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Cylinder 7 - misfire detected
Ford: Cylinder #7 Misfire Detected
============8==============
P0174
Raw code: 0174
ECU: 10
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: System too lean, bank 2
Ford: System Too Lean (Bank 2)
 
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Old Jun 23, 2020 | 06:01 PM
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Not real familiar with specifics for the model. But I would double check all the connectors, that many codes makes me think a bigger connector is loose or not making good contact, especially if it seems to run fine. Even if a connection looks clean, it dont hurt to clean up the terminals and make sure all the pins are tight and not pushed out of place.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2020 | 06:35 PM
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When I changed the t-stat, despite draining the radiator and squeezing the upper hose, I still had some spillage when pulling the hose of the t-stat body. I see there are some connectors nearby / behind / below that area???
 
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Old Jun 23, 2020 | 06:48 PM
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I thought most where up top, you could wiggle coil and injector connectors while running to see if misfire shows up, also where engine and truck harness connect. I cant remember exact layout on van, but those are main connections I can remember
 
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Old Jun 23, 2020 | 07:10 PM
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The connectors near the t-stat are on top, just behind the t-stat body.

On the passenger side is a ground strap that connects to a very large wire harness. Thinking maybe that is the engine to truck connector your're referencing. I removed the strap when I did the plugs. Just took it off again and it looked like I may have put it on opposite of the way it came off so the corroded side and shiny side were flipped. Would a less than stellar ground maybe have something to do with it? I shined it up nicer than my wedding ring now so I know the ground will be good going forward.

I'll see about wiggling the connectors. I've made sure they're all securely clipped in.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 12:05 PM
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Those VSS and TCM codes point in another direction: Battery voltage. Or alternator "purity" - a blown diode or three can really send some awful noise into the electrical system, driving it nuts. And a VSS code is sometimes an indication of that.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 02:38 PM
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So far so good this morning. I cleaned up the ground strap and hope that what was messing with the electrical connections causing those erratic codes. Pulled off the throttle body cover and the PCV elbow is in great shape. No sign or sound of a vacuum leak from it.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 02:41 PM
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Someone on the IRV2 forums suggested I look at the grommet that feeds the MAF sensor wiring to make sure it's fully seated. It was a little caddy whompas and may have been a small leak. Also, did a repeat cleaning on the MAF sensor.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 04:22 PM
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No wacky codes, no misfire codes, just the P0174. Grrr.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2020 | 12:43 PM
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Problem solved

So I cleaned the ground and that cured the crazy codes and no more misfire codes too. However, took it out for a test drive with the Toad hooked up and lack of power was a big issue on the climbs. I took her up multiple 1-1.5 mile, 7% grade climbs and I felt like there was a bungee cord attached to my rear bumper. The further up the climb I went, the harder it was to keep going. Ended up cresting the hill at 30 mph. Idle was rough too. Also, really puttered when going 30-40mph on a flat with real low RPM.

Finally threw in the towel (not really, I never do that) and called a shop to have them check for a vacuum leak that I obviously was not able to find. Came back home and thought "what the hell, I have a set of ignition coils, let's throw them on and eliminate that as the issue".

Two hours later, I fired it up and she purred like a happy little kitty cat. Took it out without the toad and I was very impressed with the power. Fingers crossed, I hooked up the Toad and ran it hard. That same 30 mph hill was 50 and still accelerating once she dropped down a gear. More power than I ever experienced with it in 30,000 miles.

In hindsight, I wish I would have done the coils, boots, and plugs all at once. I read a bunch about how coils are not a wear item and their either good or not. I never got any misfire codes (other than when that bad ground was in the mix) that would've led me to thinking the coils were not doing their job. The good thing is, I know exactly what do to with that system now should something fail having had to get in there three times. Regarding the boots, I read a bunch about how to inspect them. Mine were all in really good shape except they were permanently stretched where they fit over the plug. This results in a poor seal and poor performance. Just replace the boots. For the cost of $50, it's well worth not having to go back and get at them again.

Thanks to everyone who helped out both on this thread as well as posting in the past.
 
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