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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Fuel Issues

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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 04:20 PM
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Fuel Issues

Hi everyone. I have a 1983 F250 460. I just replaced the tank selector valve and got everything all plumbed up. Last weekend I replaced the relays for the pumps and selector valve. As well as the filter at the carburetor. I know for certain that the pump on the rear tank is no good, so I'm sticking with the front tank until I can get a replacement pump. when I turn the key to the start position I can hear the sender in the front tank doing it's thing, but after I went through the process of priming the system, I got nothing. Engine cranks, but no fire. I went and unplugged the fuel line at the carburetor and held my thumb over it while I bumped the ignition relay. I felt no pressure. I checked the inertia switch and it isn't tripped. All the fuses are intact. Is there anything else I need to look at before I assume that I have a clogged line that needs to be replaced?

Thanks for any insight.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 07:27 PM
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Go over to your starter solenoid mounted on the fender. You should have two small wires going to it, one to each small terminal. If you can see it, the terminals should be labeled s and i. The s should have a red/blue wire, leave it alone it's what cranks the truck over. The other wire is what primes the fuel system when cranking. Take a jumper wire and go from the battery + to the wire on the i terminal. Can you hear the front pump run? It should run as long as you keep the wire jumped. If you hear the pump running, see if you have fuel at the carb.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Go over to your starter solenoid mounted on the fender. You should have two small wires going to it, one to each small terminal. If you can see it, the terminals should be labeled s and i. The s should have a red/blue wire, leave it alone it's what cranks the truck over. The other wire is what primes the fuel system when cranking. Take a jumper wire and go from the battery + to the wire on the i terminal. Can you hear the front pump run? It should run as long as you keep the wire jumped. If you hear the pump running, see if you have fuel at the carb.
Thanks Dave,

I'll give that a try today.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 02:50 PM
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I jumped the positive battery terminal to the brown wire on the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid. I could hear the pump running, but there was no pressure at the carb. I don't believe that this jumping process was entirely necessary, since I can hear the pump working when I flip the key to the start position. I can only think of two things that could be impeding flow. (1. There's a stoppage in the fuel line. (2. The wiring to the tank selector valve is mixed up. The switch in the cab that switches between tanks is working. I can hear the front tank pumping when it's in the "front" position, and silence when I switch to the dead pump in the rear. As far as the valve is concerned, I'm not sure how to check if it's actually doing it's job. I connected the wires based on this image that I found in another forum. I'm not sure if it's correct, but it makes sense based on the diagrams that I could find. Does this make sense to anyone else?



 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 03:05 PM
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Here is a diagram for a 1985. It's the same as your 84. The diagram shows pin numbers on the valve wiring. Something doesn't seem to jive there with your picture. Do you have the pinout of the valve you used?

 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 03:37 PM
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I'm not sure what a pinout is, but here's the diagram that came with the new valve. It seems to line up with the wiring order described in the photo. but based on the diagram that you posted, I for sure have the wires placed incorrectly. I'm going to switch it up and see if that works.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 04:33 PM
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I rewired the selector valve based on the diagram you provided. I'm still not getting pressure at the carb. Also, now I don't hear any activity from the pump when I jump the pink/black (not brown) wire at the starter solenoid.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 04:49 PM
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The valve on the frame has nothing to do with the pump running. The pump selection is done at the switch on the dash. All the valve on the frame does is switch the sending unit wires, and switch the fluid lines. I am not sure why the pump will not run now, messing with the valve wiring should not have affected that.

By pinout, I mean what terminal is what. Your diagram shows that, A,B,C, etc. We can assume they are in order and the blank hole is F.

If we call the front tank the "main" tank, then terminal A will have the Dark blue/yellow wire.

B is the wire going to the gauge. That will be the Yellow/white wire.

The rear tank will be the "auxiliary" tank C is going to the sending unit for that tank, that is the yellow/lightblue.

The motor for the valve is terminals D and E. That will be the orange and the brown/white wires. In the diagram above you have red, it may look red or orange.

Looks like the diagram below is correct.

 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 04:51 PM
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If you get the pump running again, and still get no fuel, I would next assume the fluid lines are not routed correctly.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 04:55 PM
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Ok, I'm going to switch the wires back and switch the tank lines going into the valve. I'll let you know if that does anything.
 
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