Coil making one spark
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Junior User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Frederiksted, USVI
Coil making one spark
I know I've read about this, but three days of searching and I can't find the thread. 1996 F250HD XLT, 7.5, E4OD 4X4. I get one single spark from the coil each time I try it. Truck had other problems I'm also working on, but was running before. ICM works fine in my other truck. Had my ECM checked by crashtestdummy (Thanks!). PIP is new. I've done so many tests I can't remember.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Frederiksted, USVI
Sparks at the first turn; cranking again without turning the key off, there's no spark, but turn off then back on and crank, get that one spark. I'm guessing the field is not collapsing to initiate spark, but I can't figure out why. And I know it's something simple, just can't seem to get my brain in the right gear to figure it out.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Frederiksted, USVI
One problem solved
Update. Changed the PIP, now we have proper spark, she tries but won't start. Check fuel pressure with new gauge set, only getting 20 psi, so new fuel pump on the way. Drain and clean tank, new pump, new filter. Still won't start. Recheck static timing, check with timing light while cranking, #1 is firing at 10 ATC. I check chain slack, about 8 degrees. I verify #1 piston is at TDC when 0 mark hits pointer, so damper hasn't slipped. I clean and grease connectors at PIP, engine harness by fuse box, and PCM. Still won't start. I notice that if I turn the distributor with key on, the injectors fire as the PIP crosses the reluctor window. Can't remember if that's normal.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,925
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Update. Changed the PIP, now we have proper spark, she tries but won't start. Check fuel pressure with new gauge set, only getting 20 psi, so new fuel pump on the way. Drain and clean tank, new pump, new filter. Still won't start. Recheck static timing, check with timing light while cranking, #1 is firing at 10 ATC. I check chain slack, about 8 degrees. I verify #1 piston is at TDC when 0 mark hits pointer, so damper hasn't slipped. I clean and grease connectors at PIP, engine harness by fuse box, and PCM. Still won't start. I notice that if I turn the distributor with key on, the injectors fire as the PIP crosses the reluctor window. Can't remember if that's normal.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Frederiksted, USVI
Thanks Bubba, the systems are pretty much identical electrically, and I have my 97 5.8 that I've been swapping parts to verify good such as ICM, coil, etc. Fuel is no longer a problem, new pump and filter yesterday. I've moved the distributor timing all over the place with no success. I'm about to pull the valve cover to verify cam timing, it`s the only thing left I can think of.
(I also verified on the 97 that the PIP does fire the injectors)
(I also verified on the 97 that the PIP does fire the injectors)
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
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From: South Dakota
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
How did you verify cam timing? Maybe I answered too soon under #10.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Frederiksted, USVI
88n94, it certainly acts like it's 180 out, but I checked that it was on the compression stroke each time I set the static timing. I also checked that the piston was at TDC when the 0 degree mark was under the pointer, so I know the damper hasn't slipped. I pulled the valve cover and checked that both valves on cylinder #1 were closed at TDC on the compression stroke to verify that the timing chain hasn't jumped a tooth. These are all things I've done countless times over the years and I just know that I'm missing something very simple and routine.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
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From: South Dakota
The way I check to make sure I'm on the right stroke, with the valve cover removed on the number one side watch cylinder one valves, turn the engine with a socket and breaker bar CLOCKWISE. Watch the INTAKE valve open and close, after the intake valve closes, keep turning the engine clockwise until the timing marks come back up, this should be about one half revolution of the engine. This is the firing position where the rotor should be pointing at the number one terminal on the distributor cap.
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Junior User
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From: Frederiksted, USVI
I think I've checked and set the timing by every method ever invented, including your way, finger in the spark plug hole, turning the distributor shaft 180 just in case, retarding one tooth, advancing one tooth, holding my breath, jumping up and down.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
How do you know that?
Did you put a fuel pressure gauge on it?
Sounds like low fuel pressure to me.
Did you put a fuel pressure gauge on it?
Sounds like low fuel pressure to me.