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First off, is it actually a Cleveland that was swapped in? If not then it's likely an M engine and not a C engine.
What is the rating on the thermostat?
What gauge are you using to determine temps?
Nothing to worry about, unless it keeps creeping up. That 210 is actually a normal operating temperature for a modern engine. Your C or M might actually like 190-200 degrees. Though I agree that if running for example a 180 thermostat, you should reasonably expect the engine to stay near that temp.
What exact cam is in there. The RV description covers a wide range. Got specs, or maybe a cam card you can share the numbers from?
A fresh rebuild might run a tiny bit hot in the beginning anyway, but not for too long after it's started to break-in.
Was it bored? If so, how much over is it? The more you go, the more an engine tends to run hotter. Depends on the individual engine though. Were the cylinder walls sonic checked before boring?
What is the rating on the t-stat?
Good to advance the timing. Try some even more advanced just to see how it runs. Might not like more than 12, but it's worth a quick experiment.
The radiator is probably fine, but not sure about the electric fans at highway speeds or high loads. What size fans are they exactly. What CFM rating at how many inches of water (if the manufacturer gives that spec)?
Is the truck lifted? Bigger tires too? If so then aerodynamics might be coming into play.
At speed a higher truck has more high-pressure air build up underneath, which blocks some of the air trying to get through the radiator. Sometimes electric fans are just not up to the task. But having duals is a bonus unless they're just too small.
Are you running a correct 351C style Thermostat and was the coolant by-pass restrictor-plate replaced after the rebuild?
So I did a little more reading on the redtrictor plate to understand it purposr and I suspect I have one installed. I deduced this from the fact my radiator is getting plenty hot and even filling my overflow. If the reatrictor was removed my radiator wouldn't be getting hot correct?
So I did a little more reading on the redtrictor plate to understand it purposr and I suspect I have one installed. I deduced this from the fact my radiator is getting plenty hot and even filling my overflow. If the reatrictor was removed my radiator wouldn't be getting hot correct?
Nope the rad would still get hot and the overflow would still work even if the restrictor plate was missing. The overflow works off the thermal expansion of the coolant, not whether the rad gets hot or not. even the rad never heats up as long as the engine actual gets hot or warm the overflow will function.
And you would still get flow through the rad if the restrictor was missing you just would be recirculating a large portion of the coolant and it would never get to the rad to have the heat removed this would lead to a hot running engine, and an overheating engine when worked.
Just pull the stat to see if you have the correct stat and see if the restrictor is in place under the stat. If the engine was hot tanked when rebuilt or thrown in the Baco it most certainly was removed/dissolved/fell out. Very few rebuilders are familiar enough with the Cleveland to know there is restrictor in that location. The 335 series 400 blocks (400 and 351M) has the restrictor cast as part of the block and is not removable, naturally.
The correct stat can be had as posted in the link or any 2001 and newer 4.0L SOHC application (Explorer, Sport Trac, Ranger) uses a stat that is interchangeable, this stat is now the Ford Service replacement (MOTORCRAFT RT1167) for 351C, 351M and 400 applications.
Nope the rad would still get hot and the overflow would still work even if the restrictor plate was missing. The overflow works off the thermal expansion of the coolant, not whether the rad gets hot or not. even the rad never heats up as long as the engine actual gets hot or warm the overflow will function.
And you would still get flow through the rad if the restrictor was missing you just would be recirculating a large portion of the coolant and it would never get to the rad to have the heat removed this would lead to a hot running engine, and an overheating engine when worked.
Just pull the stat to see if you have the correct stat and see if the restrictor is in place under the stat. If the engine was hot tanked when rebuilt or thrown in the Baco it most certainly was removed/dissolved/fell out. Very few rebuilders are familiar enough with the Cleveland to know there is restrictor in that location. The 335 series 400 blocks (400 and 351M) has the restrictor cast as part of the block and is not removable, naturally.
The correct stat can be had as posted in the link or any 2001 and newer 4.0L SOHC application (Explorer, Sport Trac, Ranger) uses a stat that is interchangeable, this stat is now the Ford Service replacement (MOTORCRAFT RT1167) for 351C, 351M and 400 applications.
Well restrictor was installed. Plan to move onto burping possible trapped air and richen air/fuel mixture.
I drilled a small .100" hole in the thermostat housing to let any trapped air out. Is there another way to "burp"?
When I refill after a flushing, or on a new engine build, I install the thermostat housing without a thermostat, and detach the upper hose from the radiator. Lower hose should be attached at the water pump and radiator. Remove the radiator cap, then fill through the hose with coolant until coolant level is seen in the hose. Then I rock the vehicle back and forth. That first rocking usually gets a lot of air out. Refill, do it again. Repeat several times over about a 12 hour period, until the coolant level is stable. When you pull the housing to reinstall the thermostat, you'll only lose the coolant that's up in the hose. Then attach both hose ends, and top off coolant level at the radiator.
I only use 50/50 premixed coolant, or straight distilled water. I would never flush with a garden hose. Tap water is usually very low ph (acidic).
Good news! It looks like the thermostat I had was wrong! It didn't have a plate that interfaced with the restrictor in the block. Bad news is car quest didnt have the Motorcraft part but had their own brand that cross referenced but after installing, it is too large. Thermistat housing bolt dont clear. Ordered the Motorcraft. Should be in tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion!
When I refill after a flushing, or on a new engine build, I install the thermostat housing without a thermostat, and detach the upper hose from the radiator. Lower hose should be attached at the water pump and radiator. Remove the radiator cap, then fill through the hose with coolant until coolant level is seen in the hose. Then I rock the vehicle back and forth. That first rocking usually gets a lot of air out. Refill, do it again. Repeat several times over about a 12 hour period, until the coolant level is stable. When you pull the housing to reinstall the thermostat, you'll only lose the coolant that's up in the hose. Then attach both hose ends, and top off coolant level at the radiator.
I only use 50/50 premixed coolant, or straight distilled water. I would never flush with a garden hose. Tap water is usually very low ph (acidic).
Since the thermistat is lower than the water galleries in the head wouldnt air renter when you tried to install the thermostat? Obviously you have had good luck with this method so maybe not.
Since the thermistat is lower than the water galleries in the head wouldnt air renter when you tried to install the thermostat? Obviously you have had good luck with this method so maybe not.
I'm curious what the ph of my tap water is now🤔.
Yeah, you lose some coolant from the head jackets too, if you pour it that high up the hose.
Nope the rad would still get hot and the overflow would still work even if the restrictor plate was missing. The overflow works off the thermal expansion of the coolant, not whether the rad gets hot or not. even the rad never heats up as long as the engine actual gets hot or warm the overflow will function.
And you would still get flow through the rad if the restrictor was missing you just would be recirculating a large portion of the coolant and it would never get to the rad to have the heat removed this would lead to a hot running engine, and an overheating engine when worked.
Just pull the stat to see if you have the correct stat and see if the restrictor is in place under the stat. If the engine was hot tanked when rebuilt or thrown in the Baco it most certainly was removed/dissolved/fell out. Very few rebuilders are familiar enough with the Cleveland to know there is restrictor in that location. The 335 series 400 blocks (400 and 351M) has the restrictor cast as part of the block and is not removable, naturally.
The correct stat can be had as posted in the link or any 2001 and newer 4.0L SOHC application (Explorer, Sport Trac, Ranger) uses a stat that is interchangeable, this stat is now the Ford Service replacement (MOTORCRAFT RT1167) for 351C, 351M and 400 applications.
So the motorcraft rt1167 did not fit my thermistat housing either. The housing is for 2 1/8", the rt1167 is 2 5/8". After reading more about the robertshaw thermistat and confirming it fits I decided to order. Will report back if it works.
So the motorcraft rt1167 did not fit my thermistat housing either. The housing is for 2 1/8", the rt1167 is 2 5/8". After reading more about the robertshaw thermistat and confirming it fits I decided to order. Will report back if it works.
Temp still above 200 with new robertshaw thermostat. I may have air trapped or too lean of mixture.
Which requires the end user to drill the 3 holes. Easy enough to do with a 3/16" bit. Stewart sells them pre drilled but all you need to do is drill 3 holes around the poppet. Don't drill deep only through the shell.
This is a 330 series , same poppet used on all RS. Drill one hole in the middle of each web. Don't drill deep! Only drill the shell.
Which requires the end user to drill the 3 holes. Easy enough to do with a 3/16" bit. Stewart sells them pre drilled but all you need to do is drill 3 holes around the poppet. Don't drill deep only through the shell.
This is a 330 series , same poppet used on all RS. Drill one hole in the middle of each web. Don't drill deep! Only drill the shell.
are the holes to let air trapped in the engine water galleries escape or is there more to this mod im not understanding???
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