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I missed the "10 seconds" part. So maybe it's part of its warm up sequence. Still seems unusual though.
You live in a warm climate so honestly you have probably never experienced this, when it's well below freezing and engine oil is thick the cold start sequence on these old trucks is cringe worthy... sounds like it's gonna explode.
I was aware that the '88 roller had flat top, no relief, forged pistons. I thought there was debate as to weather the higher lift cams, Mustang and 31-255-5 would work with these pistons. I thought I remember that the no relief pistons would be okay as long as they were under the deep, E6SE heads. I'll be damned if I can find that debate now.
The Vic motor doesn't have forged pistons. Never did.
I brought the motor home and stripped it. Rat nests and oil all over. Valve cover bolts were loose enough to remove without tools. Antifreeze... yuk. Oil looks good. With the distributor out, I pumped oil quickly to the rockers. Timing chain feels real snug. Tomorrow I'm going to turn it over a few times with oil pressure and check the compression.
I brought the motor home and stripped it. Rat nests and oil all over. Valve cover bolts were loose enough to remove without tools. Antifreeze... yuk. Oil looks good. With the distributor out, I pumped oil quickly to the rockers. Timing chain feels real snug. Tomorrow I'm going to turn it over a few times with oil pressure and check the compression.
Probably has the double row roller chain set like the H.O motors had. At some point Ford used these sets in all the production 5.0's and 5.8's till the end.
I fixed my extreme cold high idle problem several years ago. I wired in a cutoff switch to the IAC valve. Now on a cold start the engine doesn't act like the throttle is pushed to the floor until the rpms hit 1600-1800, according to how cold it is.
If the engine would slowly rise the rpm up I could live with it, but the truck cranks in about 1/2 a revolution, then screams.
I fixed my extreme cold high idle problem several years ago. I wired in a cutoff switch to the IAC valve. Now on a cold start the engine doesn't act like the throttle is pushed to the floor until the rpms hit 1600-1800, according to how cold it is.
If the engine would slowly rise the rpm up I could live with it, but the truck cranks in about 1/2 a revolution, then screams.
The switch stopped the crazy starts.
Good stuff! Thanks for that. I'm guessing that the "big vacuum leak" is the IAC valve.
edit: I should add here that my truck did the high start idle in any weather.
That's a trivial amount of play for a used timing chain. It's fine.
What's the funny piece between the camshaft washer and gear? I've never seen that on any small block Ford, although I am not so familiar with the later model ones (if 1986 is late model!).
What's the funny piece between the camshaft washer and gear? I've never seen that on any small block Ford, although I am not so familiar with the later model ones (if 1986 is late model!).
My truck, the'86, has a normal looking eccentric for a mechanical fuel pump even though it doesn't have one. I have no idea what the piece on the Crown Vic is about.
That's a trivial amount of play for a used timing chain. It's fine.
What's the funny piece between the camshaft washer and gear? I've never seen that on any small block Ford, although I am not so familiar with the later model ones (if 1986 is late model!).
it’s a oil sling taking the place of fuel pump eccentric
it’s a oil sling taking the place of fuel pump eccentric
Times two, it's an oil slinger. And as I suspected, you've got a double row, roller chain set there. Just clean it up and reuse it, that slack is about what a new set has to begin with
As mentioned earlier in this thread, I have considered installing this CV engine in my truck. I changed my mind for several reasons, most notably, I didn't want to install it only to pull it a month or two later when my permanent engine is ready. With the machine shop showing me no love, I felt the only way to spur them to action was to go ahead with the temporary install. Surely the day I complete the installation is the day they would call telling me my stuff is ready to pick up.
I picked up a HO cam for the CV engine and proceeded to clean up the short block as best I could.
When I first got the engine home, I checked compression and placed on the stand. I hosed out the water jacket. As already mentioned, the coolant was yucky. It was brown and I thought it looked oily but it did not feel oily. Today, when chasing the head bolt threads, blowing compressed air into the water jacket, the air expelled a bunch of coagulated, soft debris.
When squeezed, the gobs look like this.
I'm left to believe that there was indeed oil in that coolant. I looked in the jug I believe contains the coolant I recovered from the block before the rinse. That fluid is brown but not at all separated.
Would very old, filthy coolant be able to hold oil in suspension?
Do you think the debris is coagulated oil?
Would you put heads on and a cam in this block and try it?
FWIW: You can see how the compression test came out by scrolling back a few posts. This block does have a relatively weak cylinder. I had intended to re-check the compression before installing. The lifters were all stuck when I first ran the test. I soaked the low cylinder with Seafoam thinking it might free up a possibly stuck ring.
I would suspect 32 years of the coolant not being changed, and old, somewhat leaky head gaskets. As far into the engine as you are, I would pull the piston on the weak cylinder and see what is wrong. If a broken ring, put a new set on that cylinder if you don't want to do a complete ring and bearing job. If gunky, clean up the grooves and reuse the old rings.
I would also pull at least one main and one rod cap and check condition of the bearings and crank while in there. You will have one rod off removing the piston, so one main will be easy for peace of mind.
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