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My 2012 calls for 5W-20...yet I hear some guys are using 5W-30 in models as early as 2011.
Can such a slight change in grade have a detrimental effect? I'm asking because although I'm sure the engineers did their job...they're also the same guys that design trucks with numerous recalls.
I like the idea of oil that's a bit "thicker" flowing through the veins.
Long story short....will I cause any damage by using 5W-30 instead of 5W-20?
I switched to 5w30 after my warranty expired because ford changed the oil spec to 5w30 in 2016 and the 15 motor is identical to the 16 motor. I read somewhere the 5w30 will be easier on timing chain tensioners?
I have a 4.6 in an 07' Crown Vic that calls for 5w20. That's all it has ever had. It now has over 250K miles and runs as strong as ever. I'm in hot south Texas. That being said... I think it depends on where you are. If you are in a hotter climate and working the engine hard then I would opt for 5w30. However, 5w20 will get the job done too. Any oil is better than no oil.
Per the current Motorcraft oil quick reference chart, Ford now officially states that you can service all years of the 6.2L with 5W-30 (see note 5).
The oil cap is EC789 if you want to make it "official".
That's interesting...
I've already done my oil change for this Summer...but next year, I'll definitely give the 5W-30 a try during the summer-towing season.
Back to 5W-20 for the "cooler" months.
I'm in the camp of sticking with 5w20. Never really paid attention to temp difference for grades of oil. My "12" has 185k on it and change the oil & filter every 90٪ (6-7k miles) from display settings. No strange noises from engine and uses no oil in between changes.
OK, I'll throw the "the flag" on this. I believe much of the above chart is disingenuous, at best, and wholly inaccurate at worst. Honestly, I don't think there's a human alive who can discern the difference between the 5w20 and 5w30 in winter starting. And there's probably not a human alive who could discern the difference in thickness of the two oils. In fact, that chart actually contradicts itself as the oils, in reality, should be the same thickness... hence the "5w."
Heck, the chart at this link: https://www.rymax-lubricants.com/blo...actually-mean/ shows that 5w30 is actually a better choice than 5w20 in all temps. If you're required to use the 5w20, then use the 20. If not, use the 30.
OK, I'll throw the "the flag" on this. I believe much of the above chart is disingenuous, at best, and wholly inaccurate at worst. Honestly, I don't think there's a human alive who can discern the difference between the 5w20 and 5w30 in winter starting. And there's probably not a human alive who could discern the difference in thickness of the two oils. In fact, that chart actually contradicts itself as the oils, in reality, should be the same thickness... hence the "5w."
Heck, the chart at this link: https://www.rymax-lubricants.com/blo...actually-mean/ shows that 5w30 is actually a better choice than 5w20 in all temps. If you're required to use the 5w20, then use the 20. If not, use the 30.
You're spot on. That chart is mostly bogus. The 5 is the cold start, they should be the same. The second number is the 'at temperature' number, 20 should be thinner at temperature than 30. Between 5W20 and 5W30, I highly, highly doubt there'd be any difference. A daily drive engine isn't made with tight enough tolerances to notice a difference. 5W20 to 20W50, now you might be on to something...
You're spot on. That chart is mostly bogus. The 5 is the cold start, they should be the same. The second number is the 'at temperature' number, 20 should be thinner at temperature than 30. Between 5W20 and 5W30, I highly, highly doubt there'd be any difference. A daily drive engine isn't made with tight enough tolerances to notice a difference. 5W20 to 20W50, now you might be on to something...
Roger that. One way I learned to understand viscosity is, "it flows like a 5 weight oil (cold), but protects like a 30 weight oil (at temp)."
