When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That port in the plate connects to a PCV valve. Make sure the valve is in the rubber grommet in the valve cover, and the PCV valve and hose are not clogged with crud.
All Ford V8s except dual point: .017 works on the points.
Make sure the distributor shaft isn't moving. Worn bushings will allow it to move enough to cause all kinds of problems that look like bad point settings.
Which I did. However, I see there is a huge vacuum port in that heater block that provides vacuum to the valve cover. How much of a vacuum "leak" does this impose? Point being I'm trying to get the vacuum brake booster to work better. I do have a small standalone air filter/oil fill cap attached to the other valve cover as opposed to the original that has a hose that ran to the original air filter housing. Should that matter? What sort of vac should I expect? (Lining up a vac gauge imminently).
Thanks
The PCV and the heater lines are NOT connected in the plate. Disconnect the heater lines...
Yes a pic of the spacer plate would help But below is the underside of a heated spacer plate.
Connections noted are in corresponding coloured circles
Thanks all. The heater plate is indeed like the one in the picture that matthewq4b posted, except it is a 4 barrel. I disconnected the water hoses a while back.
I did not know the PCV valve even existed--that explains a bit of my confusion. The hose is nevertheless connected to the heater block and the valve cover. Anyway, I got a PCV in case it's missing and I'll service all that.
Turns out a linkage on the carb for the choke/high speed idle cam was missing so I got that fixed on the bench as well.
Will report back once I have it all in there again and check the vac.
The good news is she's been running much better already since I started this thread, so thanks again.
Incidentally, on the timing, I'm at around 10-11deg at a somewhat high idle and in the low 20's at speed. Sound right? Any less and she loses power and backfires under heavy load.
Thanks all. The heater plate is indeed like the one in the picture that matthewq4b posted, except it is a 4 barrel. I disconnected the water hoses a while back.
I did not know the PCV valve even existed--that explains a bit of my confusion. The hose is nevertheless connected to the heater block and the valve cover. Anyway, I got a PCV in case it's missing and I'll service all that.
Turns out a linkage on the carb for the choke/high speed idle cam was missing so I got that fixed on the bench as well.
Will report back once I have it all in there again and check the vac.
The good news is she's been running much better already since I started this thread, so thanks again.
Incidentally, on the timing, I'm at around 10-11deg at a somewhat high idle and in the low 20's at speed. Sound right? Any less and she loses power and backfires under heavy load.
Timing is a whole other bailiwick.
There are 3 parts to the timing setting or curve.
Initial or base: This is exactly what it sounds like it is the base setting with no advance and what you set with a timing light at idle.
Mech advance and/or Total: mechanical advance it exactly that it is the amount of advance done by the advance weights in the distributor (See below pic of the mech advance in a Ford dist) as engine speed increases the mech advance advances the engine timing. Mech advance plus the base timing is the total advance. Example you have 10° base timing and 15° Mech advance for 25° total advance.
And finally, there is vacuum advance. This is the advance pulled in by the vacuum can on the dist, this advances the ignition timing under cruise conditions to increase fuel economy. Typically this is hooked to a port on the carb that goes to just above the throttle plate so it reads intake vacuum when the throttle is opened sufficiently.
If you want to know more about timing and how to set it and adjust it just say the word.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.