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I struggled but finally got the fuel tank lowered and removed. The nuts on the straps were frozen, I used an impact driver to get them off. It sucked.
After dropping it, I noticed:
•a buggered o ring on the sending unit
•the sending unit filter fell off and was floating around in the tank
•more brown water mixed in with fuel
•lots or crappy rusty areas in there
pictures are below
I’m assuming NOW it’s best if I bite the bullet and get a totally new sending unit, o ring, vapor seal, etc.
anything else you’d recommend I pick up?
it’s my first time dropping a tank, any advice is appreciated.
thanks,
JT filter floating in the muddy fuel mix filter floating in the muddy fuel mix Rusty cruddy areas A fine vintage The filter which has a fine Rusty sand Mixture inside of the screen Looks like sewage...
UGH!!! Yes....new tank... Now, I have an '84, 6.9idi, I went with the tank for an '85...cannot source sending units for an 84, they are 2 inches...so, go for the newer style...3.5 inch opening for the unit. Rear units are not available yet...hope to see them by June/July so I can R+R my rear tank. Tank, sending unit, new showerhead, roll-over valve and grommet, and pigtail from LMC parts because the connectors are a bit different between 84 and 85. Of course, you could get a 2 inch tank, and send your sending unit to tri states radiator in NY for a rebuild. Good luck...
A new tank was $85 (i think) on Amazon. I wouldn't even know where to start with an electorlysis...and that cannot cost less than $85, right?
If you have a trickle charger and some old iron/steel (Like bolts or screws) laying around, it'll probably cost you about $3 for baking soda. Seriously, $3-$5 total cost if you already have or can borrow a trickle charger. There are a crap ton of videos on youtube. I'll find you a link or two.
These are with smaller tanks, so more water and more baking soda will be needed but the results will be the same. It seems intimidating, but its really simple and straight forward - just need sacrificial metal, baking soda and time.
If you have a trickle charger and some old iron/steel (Like bolts or screws) laying around, it'll probably cost you about $3...
As slick as the electrolysis process can be (I've used it on heavier cast iron projects), it's time to scrap that tank. The tank has some kind of internal coating (tin? zinc?) and that has been seriously breached. Plus, the thin base metal has severely eroded away in many places. Sure, you can remove the rust, but that shiny metal underneath has zero protection against a recurrence, and is already dangerously thin in places. It's just asking for trouble. The risk/reward ratio just doesn't work, especially with only $85 for a replacement.
Now, I will say the electrolysis process works wonders. I've cleaned up heavy material and had it looking like new, but that was thick cast iron stuff. Pits that were .040" deep were no big deal on inch thick cast iron. It's a different story on .050" sheet metal. (Just guessing on the thickness of the tank sheet metal.)
As slick as the electrolysis process can be (I've used it on heavier cast iron projects), it's time to scrap that tank. The tank has some kind of internal coating (tin? zinc?) and that has been seriously breached. Plus, the thin base metal has severely eroded away in many places. Sure, you can remove the rust, but that shiny metal underneath has zero protection against a recurrence, and is already dangerously thin in places. It's just asking for trouble. The risk/reward ratio just doesn't work, especially with only $85 for a replacement.
Now, I will say the electrolysis process works wonders. I've cleaned up heavy material and had it looking like new, but that was thick cast iron stuff. Pits that were .040" deep were no big deal on inch thick cast iron. It's a different story on .050" sheet metal. (Just guessing on the thickness of the tank sheet metal.)
My replacement arrived yesterday...now I'm waiting for a sending unit from LMC. Once it's all installed...
I have my fingers crossed for smoother starts, more reliability and less hesitation when accelerating.
If I'm pumping fuel instead of brown poo-water...I think I'll be ok.
My replacement arrived yesterday...now I'm waiting for a sending unit from LMC. Once it's all installed...
I have my fingers crossed for smoother starts, more reliability and less hesitation when accelerating.
If I'm pumping fuel instead of brown poo-water...I think I'll be ok.
brown poo-water
I would say it has to be better too.
Dave ----
I will add to this now that my truck has been on the road a few years.
I had to pull the carb apart for some reason and found fine rust on the bowl floor.
Before I installed the 2 tanks with new sending units I look in the sender holes and the tanks looked nice and clean and why I used them.
The rear tank came from my parts truck and cant remember what tank is was running off of when I got it based on the fuel in the tanks, duel tank truck.
Well the rust had to come from 1 of my 2 tanks and it had to come from the top / roof as I could not see that from the sender hole.
I cleaned the carb and changed the 2 filters after the pump on the motor and kept on motoring.
I have since swapped carbs and pull the new carb apart and checked the 2 filters and all is clean.
I also put 28K+ miles on the truck in the 5 years its been on the road so that is a lot of gas to filter.
I feel it is good but if eight tank starts to leak it will be replaced.
So also check the top of the tank for rust.
Dave ----
you cleaned your tank with electrolysis or you replaced everything with new?
there was no salvaging my old tank and for the cost of a new one and sending unit, ease of installation vs removal and restoration of old, it's not worth it to not simply replace. peace of mind alone.
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brown poo-water 
